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Paviland and Juniper Wall

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Gower

File:PAVILAND 1.jpg
Paviland Main Cliff in the foreground, Paviland Far Far Far West in the distance, Paviland Far (Far) west lie in the zawns directly beyond Paviland Main. (Photo taken from 51.549247, -4.254668)

TIDAL STATUS

Paviland, Juniper Wall and Paviland Way Out West are non-tidal. The other crags vary from 1 and a half hours either side of low water to marginally tidal. See individual crags.

BOLTING POLICY

See individual crags.

PREAMBLE

Paviland and Juniper Wall are two of the most interesting crags on Gower for the middle grade climber. Juniper Wall has the excellent Assassin, the best route of its grade on Gower. Paviland has a much more extensive portfolio of routes to in the HS to HVS range, many with two stars, as well as a small batch of well-protected easier extremes. Juniper Wall faces south-east and gets the morning sun, whilst Paviland faces south to south-west, making a good double-venue when weather is an important factor.

At first sight Paviland appears overgrown, but this is deceptive. Stallion Cove is a major new venue with lots of potential for future sports routes on the massive leaning wall at the back, although the current routes on the side are traditionally protected. There is a fine hotch-potch of interesting routes on the smaller crags too.

ACCESS

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Follow the B4247 from Scurlage towards Rhossili to a sharp bend with a single white house on the left and Pilton Green Farm on the right (GR447872 & 51.561586, -4.242797). Park on the grass leading to the farm. Take the path, (through a 'kissing-gate'), to the left of the white house, to reach a dry valley after about 15 minutes, at the landward end of which is a gate. The path continues down to the sea and Paviland Main Cliff is on the right (west side of the valley). However, except for Liberty Zawn, there are better approaches to the Paviland Main Cliff mentioned below.

For Juniper Wall and Eos Zawn, go through the gate, but strike immediately left (east) to follow a cliff top path through fields. Follow the path until a vague cwm leads down to the sea. Go down the cwm to get to the Wall just round the shoulder of the ridge. It is also possible to reach Juniper Wall by following the coastal path from Boiler Slab. This takes a lot longer, but makes for a good day out, especially if combined with some ridge climbing round Hollow Top or Horses Cliff.

See individual crags' access below.

DESCENTS

See individual crags.


THE CRAGS

Paviland Approaches
  • Stallion Cove (Paviland Wild West)
    As for Paviland Far Far Far West, but from the col, follow a loose rake down towards the obvious sea cove.

  • Paviland Way Out West (Quarter Dome Slabs)
    As for Paviland Far Far Far West, but before you reach the col, you will see the slab on your right.

  • Paviland Far Far Far West
    As for Paviland Far Far West but take the right-hand (west) side of the valley and continue seawards until a path runs up right (west) to a col. From the col, abseil in to the wall, which is left (east) of the apex of the headland.

    Climber on Assassin, HVS
  • Paviland Far Far West
    Also known as Freeluncher's Warm-Up Zawn. Go through the gate at the top of the valley and bear right (west) up a slope to reach open cliff top. Head for the further of the two headlands to find a dry valley facing out to sea. Paviland Far Far West is the narrow tidal zawn below the bottom of the valley, reached either by abseil in from threads on the right (west) side, or by scrambling down the left (east) flank and doubling back round.

  • Paviland Far West
    Also known as Zulu Zawn. As for Paviland Far Far West, taking the left (east) side of the valley. At the cliff line (the west flank of Paviland Main Cliff) is a narrow zawn directly below. Abseil in.

  • Paviland Main Cliff
    From the kissing-gate at the top of the dry valley follow the wall down the valley and traverse around the back of the inlet to the seaward buttress on the right (west). An exciting but easy traverse past some blow holes leads to the front of the cliff.

    The most common approach for those familiar with the crag is to abseil off the large ring bolt (51.550388, -4.255550) and threads above the top of East Gully Groove. This can be found by taking the right-hand (west) path from the first gate, immediately passing through a second gate and walking towards the headland. Look for the yellow-topped bluff on the left-hand side of a small depression. The ring bolt is on the right-hand side of the depression (when facing the sea). There are back up threads in the cave 3m lower down.

  • Below East Gully Groove
    The line of weakness in the cliff taken by East Gully Groove also extends down into a zawn, the landward end of which is non-tidal. The zawn can be accessed down the eastern bank. A few poor routes of minor interest have been done. The most leftmost route starts at a slightly lower level than the other three and can identified by two old in-situ

  • Liberty Zawn
    As for Paviland Main Cliff (non-abseil approach) to reach the toe of the buttress. Fix an abseil rope here and descend into the right-hand (west) gully.

  • Juniper Wall

  • Eos Zawn
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