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Below East Gully Groove
TIDAL STATUS
BOLTING POLICY
DESCENTS
The Routes
The line of weakness in the cliff taken by East Gully Groove also extends down into a zawn, the landward end of which is non-tidal. The zawn can be accessed down the eastern bank. A few poor routes of minor interest have been done. The most leftmost route starts at a slightly lower level than the other three and can identified by two old in-situ TRs.
1. Mouse House 9m E2,5c
The aforementioned route with 2TRs. The best route in the zawn.
P.Donnithorne 00.00.1988
2. Ferret 7m HVS,5a
To the right of Mouse House is a rock step. Starting from near the left-hand end of the rock step, climb directly to the top, via a good spike runner.
P.Donnithorne 00.00.1988
3. Shrew 7m HVS,5a
Climb the wall 2m right of Ferret, with a sling to protect the top out.
P.Donnithorne 00.00.1988
4. Rat 9m E3,6a
To the right is a prominent flake crack, which looks from below like it tops out onto hideously loose blocks. Fortunately the blocks seem to be sound. Gain the flake crack from the left using pockets (good wires) and blast quickly up the crack to a bold, but easier finish.
P.Donnithorne 00.00.1988
The following routes have proved very difficult to locate, even the first ascensionists having forgotten their whereabouts. They are in this zawn, probably at the tidal end.
5. Ice Age 15m E3,5c
The obvious layback crack in the left side of the zawn. Finish direct.
A.Sharp, J.Harwood 23.02.1986
6. Down Under 21m E5,6a *
A strenuous number. Start 6m right of Ice Age and climb an obvious line of leftward-trending flakes over a roof to the top.
A.Sharp, P.Lewis, P.Thomas 00.00.1985
7. Squeeze Please 18m VS,4c
The chimney at the back of the zawn, finishing behind the chockstone
P.Thomas, P.Lewis, A.Sharp 00.00.1985
