Paviland Far Far West

Contents

Paviland Far Far West

Gower

Paviland and Juniper Wall

Grid Ref. SS 436860

Lat/Long. 51,5508372, -4.2568414

PREAMBLE

Recent retro-bolting of this substantial zawn has lifted it from obscurity and yielded an excellent crop of mid grade sports routes. Although upon first aquaintance the wall appears steeply intimidating, the excellent friction, bountiful natural features and encouraging bolting enable the climbs to be tackled with a decisive approach and so with an unexpected ease.

The climbs all lie on the western side of the zawn and so are in shade by late afternoon.

The crag is split into left and right wings by a protruding nose, above a conglomerate boulder chockstone. The route Rock Bottom steps off this nose and onto the wall.

APPROACH

Paviland Far Far West, is less far out west than one might think! After passing through the green gate, towards Paviland, the coast path rises steeply then flattens out parallel to the fence line. Proceed diagonally west across the sward keeping just left of the island of gorse then walk down to the top of the zawn between the two obvious headlands. At first sight it looks a pile of choss but has an excellent steep western wall (left when looking landward) 15m high. Scramble down the east side, or if faint of heart, abseil down the west(at least 40m!) from substantial belays on the narrow path. The routes start near a large jammed conglomerate chockstone at the base of the cliff, not to be confused with the lower tidal block.

TIDAL STATUS

Cold Inconvenience Climber: Nik Goile

The first couple of routes are affected at high water only during stormy/spring tides, otherwise non-tidal.

BOLTING POLICY

Retro-bolting with FAP possible,new sport routes allowed.

DESCENTS

All routes have newly installed lower-offs and are fully rebolted, there are a couple of projects awaiting drier conditions but these are obvious by the taped bolts or missing first hangers. The old TR's, PR's are mentioned only as a guide but will doubtless be removed in due course.

The Routes

Described from left (seaward) to right.

1. Dai's Route - Fr 5+
   The far left line of hangers starting from the rising traverse line. 15m.
   
   
2. One for the trads - HVS 5a
   Start 1m right of Dai's Route. Take the short impending wall directly, amble up a slab to a large hole, continue until it is possible to traverse right to the lower off of Cold Inconvenience. 20m.
   
   
3. Cold Inconvenience - Fr6b *
   Step onto the steep 15m.
   
   
4. Chock A Block - Fr 6b **
   Start from the right-hand end of the chockstone. Pull up steeply, TR, then go up the steep wall, 2TR. Shared belay with Rock Bottom. 15m.
   
   
5. OPEN Project Fr ?
   Some bolts yet to

FIRST ASCENTS

1. D.Emanuel 2012
2. Chris Wyatt 2017
3. R.Thomas G.Ashmore April 2012
4. R.Thomas 1988.
5. John Bullock 1987.
6. R.Thomas 1988.
7. J.Bullock 1988.
8. R.Thomas 1988.
9. Project
10. J.Bullock 1988.
11. J.Bullock 1988.
12. R.Thomas G. Ashmore April 2012
13. J.Bullock 1988.
14. R.Thomas 1988.

VIDEO

Moderate swell and high tide at Paviland Far Far West

File:Paviland far far west.avi