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Boiler Slab
GR SS 451 851
51.542704, -4.236298
TIDAL STATUS
Non- tidal.
PREAMBLE
A solid and attractive slab that is non-tidal and captures the afternoon and evening sun The climbs are mostly in the lower to mid-grade range.
From Overton, follow the track (bridal path) westwards for about half a mile and then go through a metal gate.
Then follow the path for about 100 metres and branch off right and up to another gate. Continue through the gate, and cross a field at its edge, to yet another after gate after 250 metres.
Go through the gate and follow the path off left down a narrow dry valley. This will take you, after about 3 minutes, to the foot of Boiler Slab.
DESCENTS
The easiest descent is to drop down the back of the crag and walk down a gully to the right (south) between Boiler Slab and Engine Room Slab. This is the best cliff in this section, containing some excellent easy and middle grade routes, making it quite a busy little spot. It is also worth a visit by mixed ability groups, with a couple of pleasant E1/2s. The crag has a broad slabby face with a broken buttress to the left and a large overhang at its centre top, with more overhangs below and right. The cliff is named after the wrecked ship’s boiler which can sometimes be seen at low water.
The broken buttress to the left has been climbed on by many outdoor centre instructors for years, but no routes have been claimed.
1. Scent Of Mutton 19m S,4a
Find the most interesting line up the rock to the left of Classic. Better than it looks, but take care with some of the blocks in the central section.
2. Classic 19m HD *
Climb the obvious corner on the left side of the main slabby face, keeping to its right-hand slab.
3. Column 19m S,4a *
Start 1m right of Classic. Climb directly up the right side of a shallow pillar just left of a groove, to a shallow depression with a patch of ivy. Climb over this and follow ledges to the top.
4. Dulfer 19m S,4a *
Continually interesting climbing. Follow the obvious corner right of Column until it peters out. Step right and continue to the bulges above, step left and climb the break in the bulges, then climb directly to the top.
5. Swirtler 21m HVS,5b
Climb the right edge of the smooth slab 1m right of Dulfer to the bulges above. Go through these in a direct line between Dulfer and Direct. Feels a little contrived, but still pleasant enough.
6. Direct 21m VS,4c *
Start 4m right of Swirtler at a rib in a black-streaked slab. Climb the rib, then move left to surmount the arch at a good layoff flake. Follow the slab above to a small roof and pass it on the left. Finish direct through the bulges.
7. Termination 21m HVS,5a
Start 3m right of Direct below a patch of ivy on the overhang above. Climb to it, over it and up the thin crack until it peters out. Traverse leftwards and exit over the bulging blocks left of the main overhang. Previously known as Hotplate.
8. Nuclear Arms 21m E2,5c *
A one move wonder. As for Termination to the traverse, but continue direct to the roof. Cross the roof directly near the poor PR (good back up wires under the roof).
9. Middle Age Dread 21m E3,6a *
Start 4m right of Termination at a slight right-facing groove. Climb the groove boldly over the overlap and continue directly up the slabs to the main overhang at its widest point. Clip the PR on Nuclear Arms, then climb the roof to the right by a thin undercut in the roof and a slight flake above.
10. Nemo 18m VS,4c
At the right-hand side of the main slab is an undercut recess. Climb out of the left-hand side of this via a groove containing a crack. Move right, then continue direct to a groove through the block overhangs above. Follow this groove taking the jutting overhang at the top directly.
11. Tokyo 21m E1,5c *
An enjoyable route with a technical move, or a long reach. Start just right of Nemo, below the widest part of the overlap and reach over from a good undercut to a good, if distant flake. Saunter up the slab with good gear, to take a finishing groove through the bulges.
12. Tokyo II 21m HVS,5b
Start at a vague crack in a slab 2m right of Tokyo. Gain an undercut in the overlap above. Pull over onto the slab, continuing directly to finish through the upper overlap using a rugby ball feature.
13. Ayesha 21m VS,4c *
Start at the foot of a slab below the right end of the overlap, just under a series of thin undercut flakes. Follow these to finish up the left side of the left arete of the Pinnacle Crack groove.
14. Pinnacle Crack 24m VD
This takes the obvious broken groove at the right of the main face.
15. Girdle 27m VS,4c
Start up Classic and follow the obvious horizontal crack at half-height. Finish up Pinnacle Crack or Ayesha.
16. Overhang Traverse 36m VS,4c
Climb Dulfer to the obvious horizontal crack, then go up to the next crack. Move rightwards to below a small roof then go up to the main roof. Follow the horizontal crack rightwards and exit up a deep cut to the right.
FIRST ASCENTS
- R.Thornton 00.00.1985
- A.Osborne, B.Taylor 00.00.1949
- J.Talbot 00.00.1967
- A.Osborne, B.Taylor 00.00.1949
- T.Moon, C.Maybury 00.00.1973
- J.Talbot 00.00.1968
- P.Hinder, V.Rees 00.00.1970
- A.Sharp, J.Harwood 20.10.1985
- A.Sharp, J.Harwood 20.10.1985
- P.Hinder 00.00.1970
- A.Sharp, J.Harwood 20.10.1985
- G.Evans, K.Snook 00.00.1988
- J.Talbot 00.00.1971
- J.Talbot 00.00.1969
- J.Talbot, M.Hicks, A.Barnie - Partial 00.00.1971
G.Evans, G.Richardson 28.12.1977 - A.Bevan, R.Bowen, D.Jones - 00.00.1960
FFA C.Maybury, T.Moon 00.00.1973
