Paviland Far Far West

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Contents

Paviland Far Far West

Gower

Paviland and Juniper Wall

Grid Ref. SS 436860

Lat/Long. 51,5508372, -4.2568414

PREAMBLE

Recent retro-bolting of this substantial zawn has lifted it from obscurity and yielded an excellent crop of mid grade sports routes. Although upon first aquaintance the wall appears steeply intimidating, the excellent friction, bountiful natural features and encouraging bolting enable the climbs to be tackled with a decisive approach and so with an unexpected ease.

The climbs all lie on the western side of the zawn and so are in shade by late afternoon.

The crag is split into left and right wings by a protruding nose, above a conglomerate boulder chockstone. The route Rock Bottom steps off this nose and onto the wall.

APPROACH

Paviland Far Far West, is less far out west than one might think! After passing through the green gate, towards Paviland, the coast path rises steeply then flattens out parallel to the fence line. Proceed diagonally west across the sward keeping just left of the island of gorse then walk down to the top of the zawn between the two obvious headlands. At first sight it looks a pile of choss but has an excellent steep western wall (left when looking landward) 15m high. Scramble down the east side, or if faint of heart, abseil down the west(at least 40m!) from substantial belays on the narrow path. The routes start near a large jammed conglomerate chockstone at the base of the cliff, not to be confused with the lower tidal block.

TIDAL STATUS

Cold Inconvenience Climber: Nik Goile

The first couple of routes are affected at high water only during stormy/spring tides, otherwise non-tidal.

BOLTING POLICY

Retro-bolting with FAP possible,new sport routes allowed.

DESCENTS

All routes have newly installed lower-offs and are fully rebolted, there are a couple of projects awaiting drier conditions but these are obvious by the taped bolts or missing first hangers. The old TR's, PR's are mentioned only as a guide but will doubtless be removed in due course.

The Routes

Described from left (seaward) to right.

  1. Dai's Route - Fr 5+
    The far left line of hangers starting from the rising traverse line. 15m.

  2. Cold Inconvenience - Fr6b *
    Step onto the steep wall from the left side of a rock pedestal. Large holds lead to a sustained and fingery section higher up. Shares the belay with next route. 15m.

  3. Hung Over - Fr 6a+ **
    Pull steeply onto the wall from the rock pedestal (by the first of many old threads) to reach large holds then up past a small overlap with a hole. Make a big reach up from the obvious undercut and finish direct. 15m.

  4. Threadbare - Fr 6b **
    Start 1m right of Hung Over. Step off the top of the rock pedestal past a hole and a small overhang, then trend right to reach a depression with black streaks. 15m.

  5. Nematode - Fr 6b+ *
    Start 1m right, off the rock pedestal. Climb steeply, TR, past a hole containing another TR to reach a calcite area, TR. The wall above the horizontal break has a long reach for a reinforced flake. Shared belay to the left. 15m.

  6. Rock Bottom - Fr 6b+ **
    Start above the chockstone. Step across the void and climb to a small scoop/cave, move left and up (with difficulty) into a shallow groove. Once the difficulties have been overcome, move right to a shared belay. 15m.

  7. Chock A Block - Fr 6b **
    Start from the right-hand end of the chockstone. Pull up steeply, TR, then go up the steep wall, 2TR. Shared belay with Rock Bottom. 15m.

  8. Closed Project Fr ?
    Some bolts yet to be placed.15m.

    Chock A Block. Climber: Nik Goile
  9. Off The Peg - Fr 6b+ **
    Start 2m right of the chockstone at a TR above a small hole. Climb past the TR and up the wall to a small overhang, TR. Move over it, PR and up the wall above. 15m.

  10. Scarface - Fr 6b
    Climb the wall (raunchy moves past old TR) to reach a shattered groove. Follow this to the top. 15m.

  11. Hot Flush - Fr 6b **
    Tricky moves gain a small footledge at the base of a groove,pull out of this to gain the shared belay. 15m.

  12. Stonewall - Fr 6b+ *
    Start 3m right of Scarface. Climb to a diagonal rightward-sloping ledge then up left,old bootlace TR, to the top. 15m.

  13. Ledger - Fr 6b *
    15m 2m right of Stone Wall climb direct to same diagonal rightward-sloping ledge, then up past unusual conglomerate splodge (old TR) to the shared belay, these last two routes are finger biters. 15m.

FIRST ASCENTS

  1. D.Emanuel 2012
  2. R.Thomas G.Ashmore April 2012
  3. R.Thomas 1988.
  4. John Bullock 1987.
  5. R.Thomas 1988.
  6. J.Bullock 1988.
  7. R.Thomas 1988.
  8. Project
  9. J.Bullock 1988.
  10. J.Bullock 1988.
  11. R.Thomas G. Ashmore April 2012
  12. J.Bullock 1988.
  13. R.Thomas 1988.