Juniper Wall

Contents

Oli Buxton on Perch.

Gower

Paviland and Juniper Wall

TIDAL STATUS

Non-tidal.

BOLTING POLICY

No bolting.

DESCENTS

Descent from the main cliff is by following a path down the north (right) flank and doubling back round. Juniper Wall is triangular with prominent overhangs at its apex above the lower slabs/wall. A large overlap runs down from a corner beneath the centre of the main overhangs.

In the centre of the crag below the overhangs is a slightly right-slanting groove and thin crack (Assassin). This is crossed at one and two-thirds height by two cracks rising leftwards across the crag, parallel with the right skyline.

On the left side of the main overhangs is a prominent nest. This should be left alone, not for ornithological reasons, but because of the dire consequences of disturbing the resident, which is probably a Patrick Troughton era Dr. Who monster.

Directly below the nest and about 4m below the overhangs is a clutch of pegs known as The Junction Stance.

The lines, although good, tend to be a bit difficult to follow, so read the descriptions carefully. Belays on the top of the cliff are positioned well back.

THE ROUTES

1. The Jackal Finish 50m E2,5c *
   Climb any route to reach the Junction stance. Move up and left into an impending triangular corner (ancient bolts). Climb the corner to a huge PR and swing left onto a rib. Continue left for 3m, then pull up and right into a groove. Either traverse left up this groove to finish, or pull directly up to a ledge and finish up steep rock.
   
   
2. Overkill 48m HVS,4c,4c
   Good, slightly bold climbing on the P1, is a little spoiled by the P2, which is nothing more than a few metres of independent climbing used to reach the top of Assassin.
   1. 24m Start at the left side of the crag, below a crack in the slab 5m left of the prominent niche of Killer's Route. Climb the crack, then curve rightwards on discontinuous cracks below the overlap to gain the Junction Stance, 4m below the main overhangs, PB.
   2. 24m Traverse right, bearing upwards, keeping about 2m below under the overlaps, to reach a more open area of rock. Finish diagonally right up these cracks (Assassin).
      
      
3. Killer's Route 42m E2,4c,5b *
   Start below and left of the slightly rightward-slanting shallow central groove by a wide slanting crack and slab.
   1. 20m Climb up left to a large triangular niche. Surmount the overhang above and continue up a crack to The Junction Stance, PB.
   2. 22m Traverse rightwards for 3m and pull into a small overhung ledge in the corner. Pull over to another overhung ledge, quit it on its right and continue up steep but easy ground.
4. Haaievinnesoep 35m E4,4b,6a
   
   1. 20m As for Killer's Route to the Junction Stance.
   2. 15m Clip the PR high up above the belay from the corner (The Jackal Finish) and step back down. Climb the headwall directly above the belay (crux) to gain an obvious scoop, 2PRs. Follow easy ground to finish up the corner above the Zygon nest.
      
      
5. Barracuda 38m E5,6a,5c *
   A daring route following the obvious crozzly line left of Assassin.
   1. 18m Climb directly up to a v formed by Assassin crossing Hair Raiser low down. The initial hard moves up to the start of the crozzly flakes are well protected by a good wire, but there then follows a 12m run out on tricky 5c moves to a jam crack. Place gear, breathe a sight of relief and amble easily up to an obvious leftward traverse leading to The Junction Stance.
   2. 20m Gain P2 of Killer's Route, by pulling up right round the arete above the stance.
      
      
      

      Climber on Assassin. Photo by Oli Buxton
      
      
      
6. Assassin 45m HVS,5a ***
   Superb climbing up the rightward-slanting groove in the centre of the cliff. The best route on Gower at this grade. Climb the crack and slab that lead to a groove and a shallow niche at 21m. Continue using the twin cracks above, move right around the bulge and then left to a broken groove. Follow this with difficulty to a ledge, then move left to finish up a scoop.
   
   
7. Perch 35m E1,5b
   Compared to Barracuda this is a sea cucumber. Climb to the overlap as for Hitman then continue up a pair of thin cracks to the break of Dry Riser. The wall above is climbed to the top finishing about 3m right of Assassin.
   
   
8. Trevor, The Pint And The Pram 33m HVS,4c *
   
   Start below the obvious jammed block at 7m, to the right of the Assassin groove. Step onto the block from the left and continue up a vague rightward-sloping crack. From the upper diagonal crack (Dry Riser) move diagonally right across a steep wall, to gain a broken crack and follow this slightly left to the top. This route was referred to as Hitman in previous guides.
   
   
9. Rattle And Hum 35m VS,4c
   Start 2m right of Trevor, The Pint And The Pram and climb a rightwards slanting crack to the upper traverse line (Dry Riser) and a niche. Finish up the right-hand of the two shallow cracked grooves.
   
   
10. Task Force 36m VS,4c
    Start at a small recess below a vague right-slanting groove 5m right of Hitman. Follow the groove rightwards to gain the upper traverse line (Dry Riser), then finish up the tricky groove above.
    
    
11. Ninja 30m VS,4b *
    Right of Task Force, just left of the start of the start of the diagonal crack of Hair Raiser, climb directly to a hanging block at 3m, then follow a zig zag crack to a shallow niche on the upper diagonal line (Dry Riser). Continue up left through a black bulge, to another shallow niche. Bear right to finish. Lacks definition and is slightly loose.
    
    
12. Hair Raiser 44m HVS,5a,4c *
    This follows the lower of two leftward-slanting cracklines across the face. Start at the right end of the crack.
    1. 24m Follow the crack to the apex of the easy angled slab below Assassin. Continue along the steepening crack and strenuously across a bulging wall to a niche (Killers Route). Continue for 4m to belays in a small recess.
    2. 20m Move left to an overlap and follow it down for 4m. Pull up left at a slight break, to another overlap. Traverse left beneath this to finish at the gully.
       
       
13. On The Horizon 24m VS,4b *
    Start at the bottom right-hand end of the lower diagonal crack (Hair Raiser), 5m left of the prominent black scoop (Socialist Worker). Follow parallel cracks rightward until they peter out, move right and up to a recess, taking care with the rock. Finish directly.
    
    
14. On The Horizon Direct 24m VS,4c *
    Climb the crack between On The Horizon and Socialist Worker, to join the former at 10m.
    
    
15. Socialist Worker 27m VS,4c *
    It keeps going left. Start at a shallow triangular black-stained scoop about halfway between the starts of the two diagonal traverse lines. Climb to the upper traverse line (Dry Riser), step left and climb the tricky groove as for Task Force. It is possible to climb 1m right at about the same grade.
    
    
16. Dry Riser 67m HVS, 4c,4c**
    A girdle taking the higher of the two diagonal cracks. Start at the right side of the cliff where the crack meets the ground.
    1. 36m Climb the crack to below the main overhangs. Traverse 6m left to The Junction Stance.
    2. 31m Traverse left for 7m and break through the overlap, just left of a tiny corner. Continue up and left to easy ground.
       
       

FIRST ASCENTS

1. M.Hogge 1pt 00.00.1968 FFA J.Bullock, G.Evans 00.06.1982
2. SUMC P1 00.00.1968, M.Harber, D.Parsons P2 00.00.1981
3. SUMC P1 00.00.1968, G.Evans, J.Bullock P2 00.06.1982
4. G.Ashmore, J.Tracey 02.08.1997
5. A.Sharp, J.Harwood 03.07.1982
6. E.Pardoe 00.00.1968 FFA J.Bullock, R.Thomas 22.06.1980
7. G.Evans, J.Bullock 08.10.1989
8. SUMC 00.00.1968
9. C.Allen, L.Cain 00.00.1986
10. M.Harber, C.Horsfield 00.00.1982
11. C.Allen, M.Danford, A.Beaton 00.00.1990
12. M.Harber, S.Robinson 00.00.1982
13. G.Richardson, J.Pratt, C.Lownds 00.00.1981
14. A.Beaton, C.Allen, M.Danford 00.00.1990
15. L.Moran, K.Snook, G.Richardson 00.00.1977, J.Beynon, J.Clapham Variant 00.00.2001
16. M.Harber, J.Mothersele 00.00.1977