Paviland Far Far Far West

Contents

Gower

Paviland and Juniper Wall

TIDAL STATUS

Non-Tidal

BOLTING POLICY

No bolting.

DESCENTS

Descent is by abseil from the top. The finishes are loose and an abseil rope needs to be used to escape. The top is loose and requires care in placement of the abseil rope.

The Routes

This is the south-facing slab at the front of the headland 250m west of Paviland Main Cliff, from which it is visible in profile. There are three slab climbs here at present, with considerable potential for further routes. The face containing the routes could be reached by an easy scramble from the west starting at the col to the north of the headland. Abseil approach is less stressful and is required for the top out anyway. The abseil is from a tat (back-up required) just 20m east of the high point of the headland.

At the left-hand side of the cliff is an obvious pink coloured niche at 20m. The three current routes take the smooth wide slab below the niche and end at the niche.

1. The Time Directive 20m VS,4c
   Start below a break in the left-hand side of the overhang, beneath the white slab. Pull through the overhang to a break. Climb straight up the slab to slot slightly to the left. Take the crack and the rib above and step right into the niche.
   
   
2. On The Job 20m HVS,4c *
   Pull up and left through the right-hand end of the overhang, then climb straight up to the niche.
   
   
3. Spank Your Secretary 20m VS,4c
   Towards the right side of the slab are twin cracks. Climb easily to gain the blind left-hand crack. This leads to a flake crack, which is followed leftwards to the niche.
   
   

FIRST ASCENTS

1. M.Crocker, J.Harwood 07.06.1998
2. M.Crocker, J.Harwood 07.06.1998
3. M.Crocker, J.Harwood 07.06.1998