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Liberty Zawn
TIDAL STATUS
1½ hours either side of low water.
BOLTING POLICY
No bolting.
DESCENTS
By abseil. This is the zawn crossed at its narrow landward end when approaching the Paviland Main Cliff from the dry valley. It contains some good pitches, Liberty being worth a visit in its own right. The zawn to the east also contains some easy scrambling.
The Routes
West Wall
The routes are described from right to left.
1. Simple Minds 20m VS,4c
The obvious ramp running up rightwards from the base of Liberty.
P.Lewis, J.Harwood 09.02.1986
2. Liberty 12m E2,5c **
A sustained pitch, with good wires, taking the obvious cracks in the centre of the wall on superb rock. A TR (not in situ) protects the start.
A.Sharp, P.Lewis, J.Harwood 09.02.1986
3. Mettel Fatigue 12m E3,6a *
From 3m up Liberty, place the good wires and make a tricky 'fall' leftwards onto a vague ramp and pocket, to gain a small hole. Pull round the overlap above the hole and finish up the easier wall above.
A.Sharp, P.Lewis, J.Harwood 09.02.1986
East Wall
This is the west-facing wall of the gully.
4. Yanks 12m E4,6c
The obvious flake in the east wall of the gully has a very trying start, which, although theoretically 6b, is always so wet and barnacle encrusted that the 6c grade sticks - boots tend not to! Either lasso, or pre clip runners at the top of the flake and climb to its top. Step slightly left and finish direct.
A.Sharp, J.Harwood 09.02.1986
