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Horses Cliff
GR 441857
Contents
TIDAL STATUS
Horses Cliff itself is non-tidal. The crag in the zawn below 3 hours either side of low water.
BOLTING POLICY
No-bolting.
ACCESS
This is not the crag identified by "Horse Cliff" on the OS 1:25K.
Follow the directions to Hollow Top and then continue traversing the coast eastwards for about 150 metres or so. You should be able to see 'the horse' of Horses Cliff in profile on approaching the crag.
DESCENTS
Walk down west from Horses Cliff. The approach to the tidal zawn below is by abseil. Horses Cliff is the second of the ridges east of Juniper Wall. It has a prominent tower at the seaward end.
THE ROUTES
- South West Wall 45m M
Scramble up a diagonal line to reach South Ridge from the left. - The Corner 45m S
Take the short corner on the west flank via a steep overhang, to reach and finish up South Ridge. - A Night in the West 40m HS 4a
Start mid way between The Corner and South Ridge. Head for small corner with capping roof, passing this on the right. Up to hanging slab trending left to finish to left of skyline promentary joining South Ridge and The Corner, finish up South Ridge. - South Ridge 45m D
A mountaineering route following the ridge of Horses Cliff.
East Side
On the eastern side of the Horses Cliff arete is a clean(ish) slab topped by an overlap. There are two routes recorded here and two in the zawn below.
- Got the Bug 25m VDiff
Start at the base of the slab and aim for a break in the overlap just left of the large crack in it. Surmount the overlap and trend rightwards to the top. - Dropped the Bug
The zawn below the east side of Horses Cliff can be accessed by abseil. It contains two slabs. - Faith 15m VD
The left-hand slab. - Hope 15m D
The right-hand slab.
First Ascents
- J.Talbot 00.00.1963
- J.Talbot 00.00.1969
- I.Goudge & G.Burkhardt 28.05.14
- J.Talbot 00.00.1963
East Side
- P.Leeder, R,Hall 13.09.2014
- G. Burkhardt, G. Anderson 13.09.2014
- J.Talbot 00.00.1970
- J.Talbot 00.00.1970
