Paviland Far West

Contents

Zulu Wall

Gower

Paviland and Juniper Wall

PREAMBLE

Also known as Zulu Zawn.

TIDAL STATUS

2 hours either side of low water.

BOLTING POLICY

No bolting, except on the overhanging wall at the landward end of the zawn, where new sports routes are allowed.

DESCENTS

By abseil.

ROUTES

Ultimatum

The cliff is characterised by a smooth overhanging white wall at its landward end and a large bowl-shaped cave in the back, containing an A2 Aid Route (A.Berry 1996) and the obvious corner of Smuts.

1. Ultimatum - Fr. 7c
   The line of weakness in the centre of the wall. A trick sequence leads you up the centre of the wall until a big flake is reached. From here launch rightwards with a beautiful drop-knee or a wild slap to a ramp line that leads to the lower off. 18m.
   
   
2. Zulu Wall - Fr. 8a
   The obvious line of the zawn! Climb with ever increasing difficulty up the central flake feature until a vicious bouldery sequence will see success and jugs or a big drop into the void. 20m.
   
   
3. Gunfire Hill 21m E1,5b
   Start at a left-slanting ramp, about 15m left of Smuts. Go up the ramp for 1m, then take a flake up and right. From the top of the flake continue straight to the top.
   
   
4. Voortrekker 21m E5,6a
   Start below a black bulge 10m left of Smuts. Go up to the bulge and make hard moves left to pass the bulge. Continue slightly rightwards to a very slim groove that leads to the top.
   
   
5. Rorke's Drift 21m E1,5b
   Climb the centre of the wall 4m left of Smuts, moving right to finish.
   
   
6. Smuts 21m VS,4c
   The obvious corner in the wall at the west end of the cliff and climb the corner.
   
   

FIRST ASCENTS

1. Simon Rawlinson 03/Jun/2010
2. A.Berry 2010
3. M.Crocker, J.Harwood 07.06.1998
4. M.Crocker, J.Harwood 07.06.1998
5. A.Sharp, J.Harwood 23.02.1986
6. A.Sharp, J.Harwood 23.02.1986