Trident Gully and Ridge

Gower

Fall Bay to Mewslade

GR SS 419 872

TIDAL STATUS

1½ hours either side of low water.

BOLTING POLICY

No bolting.

PREAMBLE

This is is the deep inlet immediately east (right) of Block Buttress. Trident Ridge is just east again.

DESCENTS

Scramble down easy ridges to the east.

THE ROUTES

1. Long Rib 27m M

The rib seperating Block Buttress and Trident Gully. A second pitch is available (Continuation VD R.Corbett, D.Thomas 1961).

Inside the gully are some good routes. Jsut before the guidebook went to press, however, the sand level had altered radically and unless it rises again, then the first two routes are probably several grades harder.

2. The Cloth Eared Brown Mullet 12m E2,5c *

Boldly gain the steep cracks on the left side of the west wall of the gully.

3. Ground Swell 15m E3,6a

This takes the centre of the white wall right of the previous route. Start at the foot of the ramp of West Pillar Corner. Climb sharp rock to twin undercuts at half-height. Tackle the wall above.

4. Sharma 15m E3,5c

This takes a line of cracks in the right side of the wall. Start as for West Pillar Corner. Climb up to a spike, then climb awkwardly over a bulge onto a steep wall. Climb rightwards then straight up.

5. West Pillar Corner 24m S,4a

This climbs the ramp running rightward up the left wall of the gully and finishes up the corner above.

6. Central Crack 24m VD

Just right of the ramp is a chimney. Climb the arete right of this and the broken crack in the wall above.

7. Meander 24m D

Start as for Central Crack, climb up and right to the arete overlooking the gully. Follow the arete to the top.

8. Kopf Out 12m HVS,5b

At the base of the arete where the gully gets very narrow is a short crack. Climb it and move rightwards to an obvious flake. Move right again and climb the centre of the steep wall. Using the back wall is cheating! (Supersedes Pillar Kopf J.Talbot 1964).

At the back of the gully is a smooth pillar in a gloomy recess.

9. Jiggler's Chimney 12m HS,4a

This is the narrow squeeze chimney on the left side of the pillar. Challenging for those of a large stature, though easier than it's right hand companion (Wriggler's Chimney). Exit through a hole in the roof to find yourself in the Catacomb Gully area (beneath the the start of Attack The Ghost).

10. Balm 12m VS,4c

The left edge of the pillar and the crack on the left.

11. Malm 12m VS,4c

The right edge of the pillar to the roof, move right to a ledge, then take the wall above.

12. Wriggler's Chimney 12m HS,4c *

The narrow squeeze chimney right of the pillar is definitely not for the stout! A very entertaining struggle.

13. Trident Wall 21m E1,5b *

Start at the centre of the concave right wall of the gully by a short water-worn groove. Climb up and left below the bulges before breaking out onto the upper wall and thence to the top. It is possible to cut straight through the bulges at the same grade.

14. South West Diedre 21m HS,4b

Climb the short groove on the seaward side of the right wall of the gully. Traverse easily along the flake to finish.

15. Pillar Crest 29m M

An easy pleasant scramble up the crest of the buttress on the right (east) of the gully.

Trident Ridge Pillar

The following routes lie on the east side of the ridge housing Trident Wall. The left side of the wall is bounded by Pillar Crest. Just right of this is a groove line and the start of the wall proper.

16. Pillar Groove 9m VD ?

Follow the groove or its right bounding side wall.

17. High And Mighty 15m E1,5b ?

Some 5m from the left (seaward) side of the east wall are two lines of weakness. Take the left one.

18. Weak and Flabby 15m E3,5c ?

The right-hand weakness.

About 15m right of Pillar Crest, the wall enters a small narrow gully. A black bulge is obvious at about 6m.

19. Questions 14m HVS,4c ?

Climb the wall to short cracks just left of the black bulge. Swing left and up the wall on painful rock to the top.

20. Answers 14m VS,4b ?

Start at the gully entrance and climb the east wall of Trident Pillar easily for 3m or so. Move left to below the black bulge. Swing across leftwards and pull up on enormous, painful holds to the top.

The next crag to the east (right) at sea level is Fourth Gully (Four Gullies). However above Trident Gully itself is Catacomb Gully.

FIRST ASCENTS

1. J.Talbot 00.00.1961

2. B.Disraeli, R.Cecil, A.Balfour 13.06.1878

3. M.Ward, M.Crocker 11.07.1987

4. M.Crocker, M.Ward 11.07.1987

5. J.Talbot, R.Corbett 00.00.1961

6. J.Talbot, R.Corbett 00.00.1961

7. R.Corbett, J.Talbot 00.00.1961

8. A.Richardson, S.Doerr 00.00.1989

9. Nick Taylor solo 09.06.2006

10. G.Evans, J.Bullock 00.00.1980

11. J.Talbot, B.Talbot 00.00.1966

12. Nick Taylor solo 13.03.2003

13. J.Talbot, M.Hicks 00.00.1969

14. SUMC 00.00.1967

15. J.Talbot 00.00.1961

16. J.Harwood, M.Ismail 08.08.1998

17. J.Harwood, R.High 16.11.1996

18. J.Harwood, M.Ismail 08.08.1998

19. J Harwood, M. Ismail 08.08.1998

20. J.Harwood, M.Ismail 08.08.1998