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Four Gullies
GR SS 420 872
Contents
TIDAL STATUS
2 Hours either side of low water.
BOLTING POLICY
No bolting.
DESCENTS
By scrambling down the obvious ridges.
The Routes
Fourth Gully
This is the gully below and right of Catacomb Gully, with an obvious hanging block above a cave at the back.
1. Narrow Cleft 12m M
Easy scrambling up the pillar left of Fourth Gully.
J.Talbot 00.00.1961
2. Left Pillar Edge 12m M
The front face of the left arm of the gully.
J.Talbot 00.00.1961
3. Ramp And Slab 11m D
Climb a narrow ledge on the left wall of the gully, rising steeply to a short crack. Finish up this. It can also be climbed more directly at VS.
J.Talbot, R.Corbett 00.00.1961
4. Black Fissure 11m M
At the back of the gully behind the overhang, climb the right crack leading up to Catacomb Gully.
J.Talbot 00.00.1961
5. Unnamed 7m HS,4a
Follow a rising corner on the right side of the gully, which merges with a crack below the right side of the overhang. Exit up this.
J.Talbot, D.Lewis 00.00.1962
Third Gully
This is situated right (east) of Fourth Gully. The centre of the gully is divided by a steep pillar rib and at half-height is cut by a wide, flat, square ledge. To the right of the rib is a narrow deep cleft.
1. West Side 12m M
The left wall of the left arm of the gully.
J.Talbot 00.00.1961
2. West Pillar 12m M
The front of the left arm of the gully.
J.Talbot 00.00.1961
3. KLAG (Rough!) 11m VS,5a
Short, painful, but good. Climb the obvious crack to the right of West Pillar moving right at a small roof.
K.Snook, L.Moran, A.Pedrick, G.Evans 00.00.1978
4. Herzog Kamin 18m S
This takes the deep chimney crack at the back of the left-hand side of the central pillar rib.
J.Talbot 00.00.1963
5. West Diedre 15m VD
A vague series of grooves in the right wall of the recess containing Herzog Kamin.
J.Talbot, R.Corbett 00.00.1961
6. Main Diedre 15m D
The slightly more pronounced grooves to the right.
J.Talbot, R.Corbett 00.00.1961
7. West Wall 15m HS
The black wall to the right, just left of the front face of the central dividing pillar.
J.Talbot 00.00.1964
8. Central Rib 15m M
The front of the central pillar of the gully.
J.Talbot, R.Corbett 00.00.1961
9. Buhl Riss 12m VS,4c
This route is located right in the back of the right-hand recess of the gully, gained by going underneath the rock arch. The route is the thin flake on the right side of the recess. Mislocated in previous guides.
J.Talbot 00.00.1969
10. South West Corner 6m M
The scoop on the right wall of the gully, right of the recess containing Buhl Riss.
J.Talbot 00.00.1961
Second Gully
This is the narrow, deep-cut cleft right (east) of Third Gully.
1. Botzong 12m S
This climbs the steep smooth chimney crack behind a large distinct jammed block at the back.
J.Talbot 00.00.1961
First Gully
This is the shallow gully to the right (east).
1. Block Fissure 6m D
The fissure to the left of the block in the back of the gully.
J.Talbot 00.00.1961
2. Block 6m S,4c
Climb the right-hand crack formed by the block on the right wall of the gully.
J.Talbot, D.Baines 00.00.1961
3. Black Corner 6m S,4c
The left-hand corner on the right wall of the gully.
R.Corbett, J.Talbot 00.00.1961
4. Small Corner 6m D
The right-hand corner on the right wall of the gully.
J.Talbot, R.Corbett 00.00.1961
