Catacomb Gully

Gower

Fall Bay to Mewslade

File:Catacomb Gully.jpg

Catacomb Gully - East Wall

Catacomb Gully - West Wall

GR SS

TIDAL STATUS

Non-tidal.

BOLTING POLICY

No Bolting.

PREAMBLE

An atmospheric raised gully which has some good climbs at a spread of grades.

ACCESS

This lies above and behind Trident Gully. It is non-tidal and access is by scrambling down from the East or ascending Pillar Crest from the beach.

THE ROUTES

Left (west) Wall

1. Attack The Ghost 11m HVS,5a
   About 4m left of Celtic Uprising is a hole at floor level (the exit of Jiggler's Chimney). Climb the steep wall above this directly, following cracks and the line of dark streaks.
   
   
2. Celtic Uprising 12m E1,5b
   Steep climbing 4m left of West Corner Crack. Climb to a line of leftward-trending finger flakes and follow them to their end. Pull up to an obvious pocket and finish as for Relics.
   
   
3. Relics 15m E3,6a
   A technical pitch 3m left of West Corner Crack. Climb past the remains of an old BR to twin vertical slots in the centre of a brown-streaked wall. Continue up and finish out leftwards.
   
   
4. Necropolis 15m E4,5c
   Start at an indefinite pillar just right of Relics and take a line straight up the wall past a crack and finger-ledge.
   
   
5. West Corner Crack 15m HS,4b
   This takes the corner crack, widening to a chimney, midway into the gully on the left wall.
   
   
6. Ribbery 15m S
   Climb the rib right of West Corner Crack, just left of the arete.
   
   
7. Ribald 15m HVS,5b
   Climb the east-facing wall of Ribbery to join it at the top. Supersedes Wall And Crack (J.Talbot, B.Talbot 1965).
   
   
8. Rib And Crack 15m HS,4a
   A nice pitch taking the corner right of Ribbery.
   
   
9. The Jewel 15m VS,4c *
   A little gem following the shallow groove in the wall right of Rib and Crack. Move right at the top.
   
   
10. Sharp Eyed 15m E5,6a *
    A wall climb between The Jewel and Crypt. Start 3m right of the arete. Climb on spaced pockets, leftwards at first, to a vague break, thread on a spike. Move up right on better holds to the obvious flake. Finish left.
    
    
11. My Wife and I 15m E5,6a
    Bold. Start right of the start of Sharp Eyed. Climb over a bulge in line with a hairline crack to good finger edges, make a long reach and continue straight up through bulges to the top.
    
    
12. Crypt 15m E2,5b *
    Dead good, but often wet. Climb the brown-stained corner crack and the overhangs above.
    
    
13. The Dungeon E4,6a
    Start as for Crypt then climb straight up the pillar on the right to a bulge. Pull into a thin crack and then gain a good break below a roof. Swing right and continue more easily.
    
    

Right (east) Wall

1. Left Over 15m D
   Climb the left edge of the west-facing wall trending right at the top.
   
   
2. Gunpowder 18m E3,6a
   Start at the left end of the overhang which runs across the right wall of the gully. Pull through the overhang, old BRs, to a break. Continue directly to the top.
   
   
3. Franceschi 15m E2,5b *
   Surmount the overhang directly below a shallow groove in the upper wall and finish up the groove rightwards.
   
   
4. Franceschi Direct Finish 14m E2,5c
   Finish directly up from the overhang of the parent route.
   
   
5. Banana Man 15m E4,6a
   Climb over the overhang 1m or so right of Franceshci, past a PR (missing) to finish as for Franceschi.
   
   
6. Treason 15m E4,6b
   Move through the roof at its right end and make a long reach to painful holds, PR. Finish up the groove.
   
   
7. Nemesis 12m E3,6b
   Climb the wall 2m right of Treason. PR (missing).
   
   
8. Trubble 11m HVS,4c
   Gain the finish of Gamma from the wall to the left.
   
   
9. Gamma 11m VS,4c
   Follow the groove running up the right side of the overhang. Pull left above the overhang. Finish up the groove.
   
   
10. Beta 11m HS,4b
    The crack to the right of Gamma.
    
    
11. Midel 11m VD
    Climb the pillar between Beta and Alpha.
    
    
12. Alpha 7m D
    The right-most crack.
    
    
13. Little Wall 6m D
    A fine line up the short wall right of Alpha.
    
    

FIRST ASCENTS

Left (west) Wall

1. Nick Taylor o/s 24.05.2009
2. M.Crocker 01.08.1987
3. M.Learoyd, H.Griffiths 00.00.1986
4. J.Bullock, D.McCarroll 15.09.2002
5. J.Talbot, R.Corbett 00.00.1961
6. J.Talbot, R.Corbett 00.00.1961
7. H.Griffiths, M.Learoyd 00.00.1986
8. J.Talbot, R.Corbett 00.00.1961
9. A.Sharp, J.Harwood 20.03.1982
10. M.Crocker, M.Ward 11.07.1987
11. M.Crocker 01.08.1987
12. J.Bullock, G.Evans 09.12.1984
13. M.Crocker 01.08.1987

Right (east) Wall

1. J.Talbot, R.Corbett 00.00.1961
2. J.Talbot - Futility 00.00.1963 FFA A.Sharp 05.11.1987
3. J.Talbot, B.Talbot 00.00.1965
4. A.Sharp 05.11.1987
5. A.Forster, A.Sharp 18.09.1988
6. A.Sharp 05.11.1987
7. A.Sharp, A.Forster 18.09.1988
8. R.Corbett, P.Perkins 00.00.1962
9. R.Corbett, P.Perkins 00.00.1982
10. R.Corbett, P.Perkins 00.00.1962
11. R.Corbett, P.Perkins 00.00.1962
12. J.Talbot, R.Corbett 00.00.1962
13. J.Talbot, R.Corbett 00.00.1962