Block Buttress

Gower

Fall Bay to Mewslade

GR SS 419 872

TIDAL STATUS

2 hours either side of low water.

BOLTING POLICY

No bolting.

PREAMBLE

The return of decent rock, routes and descriptions. This is the impressive, conspicuous buttress at the seaward end of the headland to the east of White Edge. Below and left of the highest point is a deep gully.

DESCENTS

Descend by scrambling down to the east.

THE ROUTES

1. South West Edge 60m M
   The easy rib and scramble on the left of the gully on the south side of the buttress.
   
   
2. Piz 12m HS,4b
   Climb the groove at the seaward end of the left (west) wall of the gully.
   
   
3. Kleine 12m VS,4c
   A poorly protected line up the wall right of Piz and left of Thing.
   
   
4. Thing 21m HVS,5a
   Follow the waterworn groove 7m right of Piz and just left of the seaweed covered rock. Take the easier corner above to finish.
   
   
5. Funny Fish In A Hole 21m E1,5c
   The steep crackline right of Thing.
   
   
6. Cima 36m E1,5b ?
   A large rockfall has removed the original upper part of this route. There used to be a massive overhang in place at the top! Start at the foot of the left of two cracks at the back of the gully. Climb the crack via a bulge to a recess (belay possible), step right and climb a rib to gain a corner. The old route used to finish direct, but it has only been done since the rockfall by finishing out left as for Thing.
   
   
7. Kaiser 39m HVS,5a,4a **
   
   1. 15m As for Cima to the recess.
   2. 24m Step right onto a rib, then into the corner on the right. Follow this until it is possible to gain a traverse line on the right wall. Follow it to finish up the arete.
      
      
8. The Limping Limpet 31m E5,6a ?
   A bold undertaking between Kaiser and Power Trap. From the niche of Power Trap, reach over the bulge to a good hold in the base of a faint runnel. Pull up and climb directly to the traverse of Kaiser. Finish up Power Trap.
   
   
9. Power Trap 36m E3,5c ***
   Fierce, exposed climbing. A determined approach will work wonders at the start. Start at a steep crack system in the right wall of the gully. Climb the crack past a niche, then take a diagonal line leftwards, avoiding the arete, to finish just left of the arete.
   
   
10. South Pillar Rib 36m HS,4a **<brThis takes the narrow righthand pillar of the gully. Variations are possible. Climb the left-hand groove and gain the pillar front. Continue up the pillar until it narrows to an arete. Finish rightwards taking care with the rock.
    
    To the right of these routes is a cave at half-height.
    
    
11. Burn The Boss 24m HVS,5a
    Start in the cave. Move up the left rib of the cave and enter a crack. Follow it to the top as for South Buttress.
    
    
12. South Buttress 50m S
    A poor route. Take a line right of a cave at half-height to a narrow rib, then trend leftwards to reach the centre of the wall above the cave. Finish direct.
    
    
13. Deep Crack 50m HS
    Climb the deep crack right of South Buttress to join it.
    
    
14. Big Step 50m D
    The fissure to the right of Deep Crack.
    
    On the upper east face of Block Buttress, overlooking Trident Gully, is a pair of cracks near the seaward edge.
    
    
15. Picket Line 18m E1,5b
    Climb to the cracks and follow them to the top. This route is best gained via The Cloth Eared Brown Mullet (Trident Gully).
    
    

FIRST ASCENTS

1. J.Talbot, R.Corbett 00.00.1962
   
2. J.Talbot, R.Corbett 00.00.1962
   
3. J.Talbot, R.Corbett 00.00.1962
   
4. J.Talbot 00.00.1964
   
5. N.Taylor 02.08.1997
   
6. J.Talbot, R.Corbett 00.00.1962
   
7. R.Corbett, D.Jones 00.00.1962
   
8. M.Crocker, M.Ward 01.07.1987
   
9. E.Pardoe, R.Griffiths 2pt 00.00.1966 FFA P.Littlejohn, S.Jones 00.00.1970
   
10. J.Talbot, R.Corbett 00.00.1962
    
11. A.Sharp, J.Harwood 13.02.1983
    
12. SUMC 00.00.1969
    
13. J.Talbot 00.00.1963
    
14. J.Talbot 00.00.1963
    
15. G.Evans, J.Bullock 00.00.1984