STONE WINGS CLIFF

Witches Point

File:Stone wings cliff.jpg

Stone Wings Cliff.

The routes including and right of 'Staple Diet' are usually seepage free. In contrast routes to the left can suffer with annoyingly prolonged, localised seepage.

1. Project
   Open.
   
   
2. In Search Of Bedrock - Fr. 7a+
   Scary, despite being a clip up. As for Liassic Lark, but then move out left above the bulge, to pumpy, powerful climbing on wobbly holds to the BB. A true anti-classic! 24m
   
   
3. Liassic Lark - Fr. 7a *
   The all too obvious overhanging jam crack through the bulge (you don't have to jam). Above the bulge step right to a BB. 14m
   
   
4. Help, Help Me Rhondda - Fr. 7c *
   The wall to the right is quite straightforward to the undercuts at the base of the bulge. The next 2m provides a very powerful, but mercifully short sequence. 12m
   
   
5. Dai Vinci Coed Fr 7c
   Was a line of drilled staple holes breaking out from previous route.
   
   
6. This God Is Mine - Fr. 7b+ ***
   Super climbing up the obvious bulge containing twin cracks in the upper wall. Unfortunately a couple of the the holds are usually wet. 17m
   

   Chris Savage on Masada Fr.8a. Photograph: Alan Rosier.
   
   
   
7. Masada - Fr. 8a+ **
   The undercut wall to the right is hard, sustained and has a powerful crux at the end of an exhausting series of locks and lurches. Has seen a number of recent repeats. 17m
   
   
8. Stone Wings - E5, 6a
   The big, bad, trad crack to the right is now free of its rest point. It is still utterly hideous. Tape up. Hexes are essential, Friends have ripped on many ascents and attempts and legs have been broken. 17m
   
   
9. The Uninvited Guest - Fr. 7b+
   The wall to the right of Stone Wings, with a hard crux to reach the square-cut groove. From the top of the groove finish up the (easy) top section of Stone Wings. A Friend 3 is required for the top. 17m
   
   
10. SuperSizeMe Fr 7c
    Follow Staple Diet to the flake then break out left up the hanging groove.17m.
    
    
11. Staple Diet - Fr. 7b ***
    The impressive hanging groove at the right-hand side of the steep overhanging section is climbed with no particular crux, to final powerful moves up and out of a crack. 17m
    
    
12. Tragic Moustache - Fr. 7a
    Just to the right is a small boulder, above which are two bolt lines. Climb the left-hand one with some difficulty to the ramp. Step up and climb the wall (poor bolts) to finish blindly over the roof to a monster bucket, which can be wet. 18m
    
    
13. Five O'Clock Shadow - Fr. 6c+ *
    From the boulder, climb the right-hand side of the bulge to a big flake and a ramp. Continue up the awkward wall and faint rib to the obvious v-groove in the roof. Finish up this with difficulty. 18m
    
    
14. Pelagic Mush - Fr. 6a
    The overlapping wall to the right is followed to ledges and a finish up the groove. 14m
    
    
15. Sideburn - Fr. 6b
    A short hard boulder problem type route up the blind flake to the right. 11m
    
    
16. Spear The Bearded Clam - Fr. 6a
    Has a tricky move. 11m
    
    
17. Slurp The Savoury Oyster - Fr. 5+
    A greasy filler in to the right. The first bolts have no hangers so hook them with wires. 11m
    
    
18. Magic Touch - Fr. 6b *
    A rising diagonal line. From the start of Pelagic Mush, traverse out left onto the shelf, and follow a rising traverse line leftwards to a belay above the top of Staple Diet. Quite a naughty piece of retro-bolting. 20m
    
    

There is a short break in the crag here, the escape route at high water. It is advisable, if you plan to use this to exit, to abseil in and leave the rope, as the ramp is often slippery. There are belays / abseil point at the base of Its Tufa At The Top. Alternatively climb out of PCB on the left of DUNRAVEN CLIFF

First Ascents

1. Project?
2. R.Thomas, G.Gibson 16.07.1994
3. R.Thomas 00.08.1994
4. E.Travers-Jones 00.08.1993
5. Rob Lamey 2013
6. G.Gibson, R.Thomas 06.08.1994
7. E.Travers-Jones 00.00.1995
8. P.Littlejohn, S.Robinson 1pt 27.07.1979
   FFA G.Gibson, R.Thomas 19.06.1994
9. G.Gibson, R.Thomas 02.07.1994
10. P.Thomas 'The Snark' A1 00.00.1973
    FFA G.Gibson, R.Thomas 01.06.1993
11. Simon Rawlinson 2013
12. G.Gibson, R.Thomas 05.06.1993
13. R.Thomas, G.Gibson 30.05.1996
14. R.Thomas, G.Gibson 30.05.1993
15. R.Thomas 04.06.1993
16. R.Thomas 00.00.1998
17. R.Thomas 00.00.1998
18. P.Littlejohn 05.06.1979

TUFA TERRACE