DUNRAVEN CLIFF

Witches Point

1. PCB - Fr. 5+
   The first line on the left is short and starts half way up the grassy gully leading to TUFA TERRACE. B.B. on the right hand side.
   
   
2. Croeso-I-Gymru - Fr. 6b+
   To the right of the gully, before the ground drops away rightwards, is a groove. Climb this, BRs, medium wires to an awkward pull out onto the slab. Step underneath and climb the arete, PR, BB. 14m
   
   
3. The World vs Gibson - Fr. 7a **
   Difficult to on-sight. Follow the left edge of the short wall right of the starting groove of Croeso-I-Gymru. Rock right to a hidden finger pocket. Move up to the break and traverse right into an obvious shallow, soaring groove. Climb this with a final tricky move for the belay. 15m
   
   
4. Straining At The Leash - Fr. 7b **
   To the right is a series of overlapping bulges. Climb these blindly and powerfully to a baffling move to gain the lip of the slab. If successful pull onto the slab and sidle up leftwards to the belay. 14m
   
   
5. Leave It To The Dogs - Fr. 7a+ **
   To the right is an obvious hanging groove. Gain this with difficulty, via large slopers down and left. Enter the groove to a good shakeout and swing up the arete to finish. 17m
   
   
6. There's Life In The Old Dog Yet - Fr. 6c+ *
   Start right of Leave It To The Dogs underneath and left of the prominent flake on Plus Ca Change. Work easily up until a ramp leads left through a small roof. Climb the wall above more easily, on excellent pockets. 17m
   
   
7. Plus Ca Change - Fr.7b *
   Shares a start with 'Old Dog'. Up and right is an obvious 'stuck on' flake next to a ring bolt. Saunter up to this and make a couple of very difficult moves up and slightly left to get a good hold. Pull onto the upper wall and climb this awkwardly, moving right to a BB. 20m
   
   
8. Hanging By A Thread - Fr. 6c ***
   The best sports route of its grade in the area. Climb boldly up the lower wall opposite the pinnacle boulder, heading for a prominent v-groove. Pull straight through this groove and shakeout. The next 8m is devious and continually difficult. Disconcerting BB on the right. 21m
   
   
9. Edge-More - Fr. 7b+
   Quite a good route, but uses a bolt on hold, which needs removing. A crucial hold has come off further up, and the route has not been climbed since. Climb the groove right of Edge-Hog to horizontal flakes. Pull up the impending wall via the bolt on, make a horrible jump for a flake out right, thus enabling the BB to be clipped. 15m
   
   
10. Edge-Hog - Fr. 7b+ ***
    Low in the grade, with a superbly positioned crux high above the water and well out from the belayer. Start at the BB by a very sharp arete. Climb the arete to the roof and pull out onto the upper wall. Lean right back off a heelhook and enjoy the position, then make three swift and difficult pulls up to reach the top slab. The belay is a little further up. 23m
    
    
11. Grow Up! - Fr. 7c *
    A surprising line through very steep territory, that proves remarkably thuggish. Those without a long reach will have problems. Start round to the right of the next arete after Edge-Hog, BB. Climb to the roof, undercut over and space walk out left, with increasing difficulty to somehow gain the finishing groove. Sadly this can be a little greasy, but the positions more than compensate. Lowering off can be exciting, especially at high tide! 21m
    
    
12. Pasty = Man Boobs - Fr. 4
    The slab under the roof of 'Grow Up'. A safe way up to THE GANTRY. BB.
    
    
13. Young, Gifted and Beige - Fr. 4
    Another slab route to the same lower off as 'Pasty'.
    
    

Tufa Terrace, Dunraven Cliff and The Gantry

FIRST ASCENTS

1. D.Emanuel 00.00. 2009
2. M.Crocker, R.Thomas 23.08.1986
3. M.Crocker, R.Thomas 23.08.1986
4. G.Gibson 15.05.1993
5. G.Gibson, R.Thomas 04.07.1993
6. R.Thomas, G.Gibson 16.05.1993
7. G.Gibson, E.Travers-Jones 30.05.1993
8. R.Thomas, M.Learoyd 00.08.1986
9. G.Gibson, R.Thomas 03.07.1994
10. G.Gibson 11.07.1993
11. M.Crocker 14.05.1994
12. D.Emanuel 00.00. 2009
13. D.Emanuel, R. Thomas 00.00 2009