Ridgeway

Contents

South East Wales Sandstone

File:Analogue kid.jpg

Climber on Analogue Kid Fr.6a+

Postcode district: NP11 7

Grid Reference: ST 169 929

Lat: 51:37:46N (51.62946)

Lon: 3:12:02W (-3.20069)

PREAMBLE

The Ridgeway quarry lies in a rural hilltop location and contains a couple of quick drying walls of coarse sandstone. So far, sport climbing development has been restricted to the tall 'Black Slab' and short orange overhanging face, 'Boney Wall'.

ACCESS

From the A472 between Ystrad Mynach and Blackwood, where the carriageway changes from single to dual, turn south on the roundabout sign posted to Bryn Meadows Golf Club. Follow the lane for approximately 1 mile and park on the right at an obvious layby. Follow a path directly from the layby into the quarry on the right, approximately 50m.

If in doubt look for the tall radio mast about 100m beyond the quarry.

OpenStreetMap

DESCENTS

All routes are equipped with double bolt abseil stations.

ROUTES

File:Black slab.jpg

Black Slab Topo.

The routes are described from left to right.

BLACK SLAB

A tall slabby wall with half a dozen sport routes, some of real quality. The wall faces north-east and can be very cold when the wind is up, or a welcome escape from hot and humid conditions elsewhere.

1. Geotechnique – Fr. 6b+
   The rounded left arête of the wall, starting half way up the banking. Technical. 10m
   
   
2. Powered by Cheese and Ham – Fr. 6a *
   Just to the right of the tree is a vertical crack, follow it to the top of the wall. 16m
   
   
3. Spacebats - Fr. 6c+ **
   A crimpy and technical offering. The ever steepening wall between the cracks.16m
   
   
4. Analogue Kid - Fr. 6a+ **
   Follow the diagonal crack to its end. A couple of thin moves lead to a search for holds on the lip of the ledge. 18 m.
   
   
5. Kill the Superheroes – Fr. 6b+ **
   The line of staples branching rightwards from the Analogue Kid crack. Near the top, use a thin crack and pull straight over a small roof to reach finger rails. The corner to the right is definitely 'off-route'. 17m
   
   
6. Wee Wyllie Wonka – Fr. 6a
   The steep (loose) cracks and slabby corner on the far right of the wall. 17m
   
   
   File:Geotechnique.png

   Geotechnique

Done all these? Time to head to Navigation Quarry!

BONEY WALL

A steep little face, very quick drying and south-east facing. The climbs are mainly on big incut holds but with a short sharp crux.

1. Yo Momma – Fr. 6b+
   Start at the graffiti ‘’BONEY’’ and climb the leaning orange wall, close to the left arete. 10m
   
   
2. Chasing Dragonflies - Fr. 6b *
   The central line on the leaning wall. 9m
   
   
3. Shotgun Party – Fr. 6b
   A short route on the right side of the wall. Tree stump belay at ground level. 8m
   
   

OTHER

Between the developed walls is an old route.

1. Name Unknown
   Behind a tree in the northwest part of the quarry is a blocky ramp and steep parallel cracks, containing an old peg.
   
   

FIRST ASCENTS

1. A. Rosier - 13.03.2010
2. B. Danby - 12.09.2010
3. R. McAllister - 10.09.2010
4. A. Rosier - 13.03.2010 - The day Wales switched to digital TV.
5. A. Rosier - 13.03.2010
6. R. Thomas - 17.03.2011

BONEY WALL

1. A.Rosier - 12.09.2010
2. A. Rosier – 21.03.2010
3. A. Rosier – 21.03.2010 - A credit to the ex Italian special forces member and crazy local guy who generously let Bruce and I pop some caps with their supersonic rifle and shotgun arsenal. It's never dull around here!

ADDITIONAL PHOTOS

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  Climber at the top of Analogue Kid

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  Simon Williams leading Chasing Dragonflies on the overhanging Boney Wall

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  SWMC meet 25 May 2011

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  Panorama