The SWMC Wiki is currently under review.

Rhossili old

From SWMC Wiki
Jump to: navigation, search
Rhossili.jpg

TIDAL STATUS

The Upper Crags are Non-Tidal. The Lower Crags are accessible between 1 and 3 hours either side of low water.

BOLTING POLICY

See individual crags

PREAMBLE

The crags overlook the beautiful Rhossili Bay and the Worms Head itself. They contain a good mixture of easy and hard routes. The sea level crags look small when the tide is, but this view proves decepetive as the tide recedes. The upper crags face west, whilst the sea-level crags are mainly north facing. The best area of the upper crags is the solid quarried wall of Trial Wall, containing mostly semi-equipped routes. At sea level there are a number of pleasant areas the best being The Platform Area and Poser Buttress.

ACCESS

Climbing on the Worms Head itself is STRICTLY FORBIDDEN. To ignore this ban could jeopardise access to many other cliffs on Gower and it should be strictly adhered to. Climbing on the Worms Head Hotel probably would not go down too well with the landlord. Worse still you might disturb Turbo, Fester, Ronnie or worst of all, Chris Davies.

For a small fee it is possible to park in the farmers field at the end of the road leading into Rhossili village (GR 415881).

Walk south along the narrow private road past the National Trust Shop and coastguard cottages, in the direction of the Worms Head. Pass through the gate and continue along the gravel road until it takes a sharp left, where the stone wall and cliff edge are closest, this is just past a bench and gate in the stone wall. At this point turn right towards the cliffs and follow a path down, above wedge wall and leading to trial wall. The rest of the upper cliffs are reached by striking off south (left when facing seaward). The sea level cliffs can be reached by following the path down below Trial Wall and walking along the beach or from the short cuts noted below. Sheepbone Wall is directly below Trial Wall. Evening Wall lies directly below Lifebuoy Buttress. Yellow Zawn is down and south from Lifebuoy Buttress. The Secret is almost directly below the arete of An Audience of Sheep. The Platform is below and south of An Audience Of Sheep on Silent Fright Buttress. Kitchen Corner is reached by contouring from the end of the upper crags to drop down onto the beach by some rocky steps.

Loading map...

DESCENTS

Are obvious and just by walking off.

THE ROUTES

Upper Crags

Lifebuoy Buttress & Sense of Adventure Buttress - Following a site visit with National Trust(prior to the bolt meeting of July 23 2011), they asked that these buttresses not have bolts in them. This goes against the existing bolt policy and was unfortunately not discussed in the meeting, there is a further meeting with National Trust date TBC (end of September estimate) where we will try and clarify. Please do not add bolts in the mean time.


Black Buttress - From the same site visit(previous to the meeting of the 23rd July), bolts are allowed, and new sport routes but glue in's should be used(despite the only route bolted here having hangers).


Retribution Wall

File:Retribution wall2.jpg
Retribution Wall

BOLTING POLICY: Retro-bolting permissible with first ascensionist’s permission. Replacement of worn fixed gear on a point for point basis with bolts is permissible. No new sports routes allowed.

This is the steep quarried wall passed on the descent to sea-level. Many of the routes are old aid routes so some of the in-situ gear is dubious. Some of it has been replaced. It can be sheltered in winter and dries relatively quickly. To the left of the obvious main face, the seaward face has two corners separated by an undercut v-groove.There are some recent sport routes(2011) done by Stu Llewellyn after consultation with the NT. This area is no longer regarded as part of Trial Wall but is to be referred to as Retribution Wall

  1. Spades Of Glory - Fr. 5
    The wall and crack system left of the undercut V groove. 16 m

  2. Laughing Spam Fritter - VS, 4b
    Climb the v-groove and ramp to a grass ledge. Traverse rightwards into the cave. Scramble off to the right. 25 m

  3. Pillars Of The Earth - Fr. 6b
    The pillar of rock.Variation start from the left over roof of V groove(World Without End). 23 m

  4. Somme Mothers - HVS, 5a
    The name is not a misprint as it was climbed on Remembrance Sunday. This climbs the groove just right of Laughing Spam Fritter, joining it to finish.

  5. 24000 Ball Point Pens - HS, 4a
    As for Somme Mothers but up ledges to top crack and shared bolt belay. 24 m

  6. Buckets Of Bubbly - Fr. 5
    Short wall to big ledge then up to crux below belay. 25 m

First Ascents

  1. Matt Woodfield 21/08/11
  2. Tony Penning & Peter Creswell 8/11/81
  3. Stuart Llewellyn 21/08/11
  4. Andy Sharp & John Harwood 8/11/81
  5. Steven Warrington 21/08/11
  6. Steven Warrington 21/08/11

Trial Wall

File:Trial wall.jpg
Trial Wall
Gareth Tucker on Crime and Punishment, Trial Wall. Photo by Steve Lucocq

BOLTING POLICY: Retro-bolting permissible with first ascensionist’s permission. Replacement of worn fixed gear on a point for point basis with bolts is permissible. No new sports routes allowed.

The rusted through belay wire thread above Crime and Punishment et al has been replaced but take/your own back up large tape thread or lash out and leave your own large thread (with maillon of course).

  1. The Adulteress 24m E2,5c **
    Climb the crack just right of the left arete of the main face, through an overhang, then traverse right along an obvious break and climb the wide crack to the top.

  2. Blackman’s Pinch 24m E4,6a **
    A popular test piece, start just right of the arete. Climb a rightward-slanting crack to the overlap. Surmount this, BR, and gain the break above (crux). Using the 'new' obvious jug out left is not only off route but will stop you in your tracks. Finish as for The Adulteress.

  3. Skull Attack 24m E6,6b Fr. 7b+ ***
    A stunningly technical wall climb, currently fully bolted. Start right of Blackman’s Pinch and left of the Crime and Punishment groove below an overlap. Climb to and surmount the overlap to a ledge. Move left to a thin crack. Moving slightly right at a good thin break, make a baffling sequence on non-existent flakes to gain a prominent groove. Mantle awkwardly into this, topping out to bolt belay.

  4. Retrobution 24m Fr. 7b
    Plough on up the Crime and Punishment groove until holds run out, continue into Skull Attack to finish.

  5. Crime and Punishment 23m E5,6b ***
    Fine sustained climbing. Start below a scoop and 3 BRs in the middle of the wall. Gain the scoop, then follow the shallow groove to its top. Traverse right along the obvious break to thin cracks, PR, and climb these (hard) to good jambs beneath the overhang, old PR. The crack then becomes less helpul when pushing for the top.

  6. Black Wall-Fr. 8a+ *
    The original and direct finish now regeared. A vicious, fingery problem, especially when the direct finish is taken. Start 3m right of Crime and Punishment at a line of "twizzles". Make a series of difficult moves to below the bulge. Desperate moves past the remains of an edge lead over the overlap to the top. The route had lost a hold at the top but it has been successfully redpointed in 2011. 21m.

  7. Inch Pinch -Fr. 7a
    A pitch, up a short crack on the right side of the crag. Boulder up directly to a BR. Gain a crack with difficulty and climb it. Continue more easily to the top.Regeared 2011.15m.

  8. The Hant - Fr. 7a
    Follow Inch Pinch to a good lay-away hold, then move right and over the overlap with difficulty. Follow a shallow groove and crack to the top. 15 m.

  9. Tribulations - Fr. 7a
    The right arete of the buttress, moving left at the top. 12 m.

  10. Shakeout 27m E3,6a **
    A girdle of Trial Wall from right to left. Start at the right edge of the wall, at the obvious breakline below the bulges. Follow the break past 2BRs to join Crime and Punishment. Move up for 2m and continue leftwards, BR, to finish up The Adulteress. A hanging stance can be taken on on Crime And Punishment.

First Ascents

  1. S.Padfield, D.Thomas - Worm Variation 00.00.1965, FFA A.Sharp, J.Harwood 08.11.1981
  2. S.Padfield, D.Thomas - Worm 00.00.1965, FFA A.Sharp, J.Harwood 05.12.1981
  3. A.Sharp, J.Harwood 1pt – Top Section 29.05.1983, A.Sharp, J.Harwood – Top Section 15.04.1984, A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.00.1986
  4. M.Richards - 2013
  5. G.Hicks, S.Padfield, D.Thomas – Trial 00.00.1966, L.Francombe 1pt 00.00.1980, FFA A.Sharp, J.Harwood 18.10.1981
  6. J.Talbot, B.Talbot 00.00.1961, A.Sharp, J.Harwood 3pt 22.11.1981, A.Forster, A.Sharp – Direct 00.00.1988
  7. A.Sharp, P.Lewis, J.Harwood 29.05.1983
  8. A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.04.1987
  9. R.Thomas 20.09.1998
  10. A.Sharp, J.Harwood 23.10.1982


The Story of Skull Attack

Skull Attack is a route with a complicated history. It was originally climbed by Andy Sharp in 1983, coming out of Crime And Punishment’s ramp and climbing the top wall with 1pt. The protection was 4PRs and a wire or two. Andy returned the year after with John Harwood again and removed the aid point. The lower section was added by Andy with Pete Lewis two year later in 1986 with an extra PR in the bottom wall. The route received ascents from various climbers like Martin Crocker and Andy Swann before the pegs were stolen. Pegs were sporadically placed by climbers such as Andy Long and Stefan Doerr, but kept going missing. Andy said he thought the route should be bolted up instead, which Goi Ashmore did in 1998. Various people got rather annoyed about 5PRs being replaced with 6BRs. Andy on the other hand still reckons there should be another bolt in it. For the enlightenment of non-locals, Skull Attack is the famous Brains SA Bitter.

Wedge Wall

File:Wedge wall.jpg
Wedge Wall

The short wall under the Trial Wall descent path has five sport routes.

  1. The Fin End Of The Wedge - Fr. 4+
    Left hand of black wall, awkward start to a belay in the grassy bay. 11 m

  2. Wedgling - Fr. 5
    Ledges to shared belay with next route. 11 m

  3. Wedge-egade Master - Fr. 5+
    Shared belay. 10 m

  4. Wedge Dyu Been? - Fr. 5
    Shared belay with route on right. 10 m

  5. Atomic Wedgie - Fr. 6a+
    Face climbing on crimps. 10 m

First Ascents

  4. Tim Hoddy solo 16.07.1987


Terrace Wall Upper Tier

Short climbs starting from the terrace at the top of Terrace Wall, just below Wedge Wall.

  1. Ayla - 8m HS
    Climb the crack just to the left of the cave.

First Ascents

  1. Melinda Morrell, Steve Hill' 24.08.2013


Lifebuoy Buttress

BOLTING POLICY: Retro-bolting was permissible with first ascensionist’s permission. Replacement of worn fixed gear on a point for point basis with bolts was permissible. New sports routes were allowed.This situation now changed with no discussion at the July 2011 bolt meeting,the NT have declared NO BOLTING.


1. The Axe 14m E1,5a

The left hand arete.

T.Penning, A.Sharp, J.Harwood 26.05.1985

2. Blockbuster 14m Fr 5+.

The wall 3m right of The Axe. Climb from ledge to ledge parallel with the arete, finishing up a short scoop. PRs missing.

N.Williams, P.Williams 00.00.1978


3. Hatchet Man Fr. 6b+

The wall, direct ,left of the stepped corner.


4. Pulpit 14m HVS,5a

Not a route to preach about! Climb a stepped corner 9m right of Blockbuster to a pulpit, move left and up a smooth curving crack for 1m then left and up a wall into a scoop to the top.

N.Williams, P.Williams 00.00.1978 G.Evans, J.Bullock – Direct 00.00.1982


5. Crunch 24m VS,4c

Some 6m right of Pulpit is a corner with a grassy ledge. Climb this and the central crack in the upper buttress.

A.Tyas, J.Pratt, G.Evans 00.00.1981


Black Buttress

File:Black buttress.jpg
Black Buttress

About 40m right of Lifebuoy Buttress are some black walls.

This large area is the site of an old quarry as are most of these upper crags. There was one bolted route which appears to be about Fr.6b. There is scope for more.

BOLTING POLICY: Retro-bolting permissible with first ascensionist’s permission. Replacement of worn fixed gear on a point for point basis with bolts is permissible. New sports routes allowed as agreed recently by the NT and local BMC meeting.


1. unnamed 20m ??

There is a line of hangars.

Stu Llewellyn 2011

1.5.Another line of hangers20m??
Climb the groove which may or may not be Bragg step L onto the wall proceed to ring belay of previous. Unknown


2. Bragg 12m V Diff

Follow flakes and a corner in the centre.Lower part now bolted.

N.Williams, P.Williams 00.00.1978


3. Little Spider 10m VD

Up and 8 metres to the right of Bragg, Follow the crackline to the terrace.

Joe Gallacher, Darren Evans 25.05.2011

Black Buttress Right

BOLTING POLICY:Sport routes are allowed The formerley known as: Sense of Adventure area lies well above sea level 200m on from Trial Wall and after Lifebuoy Buttress. There is some atrocious rock(mostly on the main quarry). The exact location of this section with the two trad routes is no longer open to conjecture but is in all probability just on the right side of the Black Buttress area on a block where it is easy to walk off the terrace.This is fine and dandy since the NT seem to permit bolting in this area.( It now seems(2014)that the crack seamed wall just right of the block is used for coast guard rescue practice so the NT would prefer it to remain unaltered)Several trad routes have been done but remain unrecorded and the belay stakes removed after a request by the NT.

1. The Edge 5m E4,6a

A perfect square-cut arete on the block. Unprotected.

A.Berry 00.00.1997


2. The Beautiful People 12m E1,5b

The other arete on this block.

G.Morris, A.Berry 00.00.1997

Right of the crack seamed wall

  1. Hard To Swallow Fr6a+*
    Short but entertaining,the left side of the arete8.69m

  2. Spit'n Polish Fr 6a
    The groove R of arete to shared belay.

Silent Fright Buttress

BOLT POLICY: No bolting.

This is located 90m south-west along the headland from Black Buttress. It has an impressive arete on the left, a lower square-cut subsidiary buttress in the centre and a prominent overhanging arete to its right (An Audience of Sheep).


1. Silent Fright 24m E4,6a *

Climb the impressive arete at the left side of the wall, PR. Exit leftwards to a worrying finish.

A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.00.1985


Deafening Calm HVS 4c

Just right (~1m) of the Silent Fright arete is a stepped quarried corner, follow this to a ledge below a small cave of cheesy rock, below a disjouinted arete with crystalised sections. Head up towards the arete gaining good crystalised holds. Make moves up the vague arete to good jugs, (sling can be placed over the higher crystalised hold, add a weight) Move up higher to the top of the arete, make moves into the groove just right of the arete. Take care in the top groove.

FA Stuart Llewellyn 19/04/11


2. Summertime Blues 15m HVS,5a

Climb the crack directly up the short steep wall on the right of Silent Fright.

P.Lewis, A.Sharp 00.00.1985


3. Playground Twist 15m E2,5c *

The crack just right of Summertime Blues.

A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.00.1985


4. Executioner’s Thrill 15m E4,6b *

A good testpiece up the bold, technical arete right of Playground Twist.

A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.00.1985


5. The Mad Mad Mad Lundy Axeman 12m E3,5c

Located on the wall 12m right of Executioner’s Thrill. Start from a ledge at 2m, 5m left of faint parallel cracks in a black slabby wall. Follow the tricky slab above, with an awkward move to finish. Poor protection.

M.Crocker 02.08.1988


6. Lundy Tilting 15m E2,5c

Climb the left of two cracks 5m right of The Mad Mad Mad Lundy Axeman. Gain a ledge at 3m and follow the crack and arete to the top.

M.Crocker 02.08.1987


7. An Audience of Sheep 15m E5,6b

The flying arete bounding the buttress on its right. Gain a ledge down and left of the arete and then cross rightwards onto a projecting ledge, TR. Hard moves up the arete, PR, to a jug, BR, lead to amazing moves and a long reach for a jug at the apex.BR missing conforming with bolt policy for this section.

M.Crocker, M.Ward 15.08.1987


60m further along is a short slabby wall, recognised by a square-cut window-like notch at the top of the slab.


8. Wages of Sin 12m E4,6a

A good pitch, following the slight groove up the left side of the slab.

A.Sharp, P.Lewis 06.03.1988

Sea Level Crags

Rhossili Bay

File:Blackwall topo.jpg
Black Wall

This is easiest reached by taking the beach path behind the Worms Head Hotel(marked on road) then walking left facing out to sea( S) along the beach towards the Worm and other lower crags.

There are stakes in place at the top of some sea level crags.

Bolt Policy: Well there's lots there now!

Black Wall

The short wall off the beach just before the shipwreck in the cove,strangely enough it's black.

  1. Thieving Parasites Fr 6a
    Boulder up the barnacles easier above.

  2. Wittle Thieving Lankers Fr5+
    Shares belay with previous,take a rock 7 if you are of a nervous disposition.

  3. Fats Waller - Fr. 7a
    Technical groove.

  4. Route With Two Pockets - Fr. 7b
    Big moves!

  5. Black Adder - Fr. 6b+
    Small then bigger holds.

  6. Strongbow Flyer - Fr. 6a+
    Tricky start.

  7. Rum Thieves - Fr. 6a+
    A better route.

Shipwreck Cove

File:Shipwreck topo.jpg
Shipwreck Cove
File:Shipweck right.jpg
Shipwreck Cove (Right)

About one third of the way along the beach heading towards Kitchen Corner is a small cove with a wildly overhanging west wall. Two diagonal breaks trending left cut through the left side of this tidal wall.

  1. Stuart's Stolen Project Fr ?
    Was a closed project stolen 17 may 2014..

  2. Mutiny Crack - E4 6a
    Probably here? Follow line of large pods to roof then jam to the BB of Attrition.

  3. Wrecking Ball - Fr. 7a+
    Bisects the following route.

  4. Attrition - E5, 6a
    Trad, 1997, by P.Littlejohn, bolt belay saves a 50 m loose top out.

  5. Marine Layer - Fr. 7a
    The sporting diagonal, L.O. shared with Wrecking Ball.

  6. One Ton Depot - Fr. 7b+
    Crux at top.

  7. Vennerne - Fr. 7c+
    Steep.

  8. Air Show - Fr. 8b
    A former closed project of Adrians.

    There is another closed project of Rob Lamey's beyond here and two very steep routes at the right hand end of the cave. Above these two route are several recently bolted "closed works in progress" awaiting the return of dry conditions.

  9. Achilles Wrath - Fr. 8b
    Super steep roof work, Chain L.O. above the cave lip.

  10. King George vs. The Suffragettes - Fr. 7a+
    The right side of the roof via a steep boulder problem.

On the right wall of the cove are six completed routes.

  1. Blockiness - Fr. 6c+ ***
    Brilliant steep climbing on (mainly) huge buckets. Tricky to read if unchalked.(a large block has parted from the start in overwinter storms so the grade may be altered).

  2. Sand Man - Fr. 6b
    The central groove line. Good off-balance climbing marred slightly by the corner which forms a sand chute.

  3. Par 3 - Fr. 6b+ **
    Cracking wall climbing with good rests between steepenings.

  4. John's Route - Fr.6b+**
    Just left of the high cave, start up the ramp.

  5. First Handout - Fr.6a+**
    Gain the ramp continue to a niche with bealay above.

  6. Hand Shandy - Fr.6a++
    Was a works in progress, to same belay as previous, now a stolen project! May be loose.


Castaway Cove

File:Castaway cove2.jpg
Castaway Cove

The cove containing the wreckage of the ship Vennerne.

  1. Dry Blood Beast - Fr.6a
    Right hand side of bay, back wall, follow R side of cave. Crux bolt a bit low.

  2. Cinders Catch - Fr.6a
    Barnacle start then sloping well separated holds lead to upper section and chain above ledge.

  3. Dirty Innuendo - Fr.5+
    After the usual barnacle start follow the wall then move LEFT to join preceding route and its ring belay. DO NOT go R to the single "working non stainless bolt" where someone has wimped out and left a carabiner.

  4. Geez Louise - Fr.5+
    Short wall almost at exit of bay.

  5. Project - Fr.6b
    Steep cave around corner from Mermaid Cove.

Mermaid Wall

Only a 5 hr tidal window(varies with neaps and springs)so take care not to get cut off(common sense really).Escape is possible up the easy scramble and vertical grass but not advisable for the uninitiated.

  1. Crass Word Pizzle - Fr.4
    The most L of the routes. A bit of an exposed walk from the last bolt to the shared belay on the right.

  2. Landlubber - Fr.x*
    XXXNOT TYPING THIS ALL AGAIN AND THERE WERE TWO CRASS WORD PIZZLES WHICH MAY HAVE BUGGERED UP THE NUMBERING!!!!!.

  3. The Naughty Corner - Fr.6x*
    XXX LOST TEXT!!!.

  4. Ursula - Fr.x*
    XXX.

  5. Caesg - Fr.x*
    XXX.

  6. Turtle Apocolypse - Fr.x*
    XXX.

  7. No Father Day - Fr.x*
    XXX.

  8. Lara - Fr.x*
    XXX.

  9. Scurvy Dog - Fr.x*
    XXX.

On the right of this gentle slabby section is an obvious square roofed cave and a white pillar.

  1. Crimp Paddle-Fr.6b+**
    As for the following but break out left above the cave roof.

  2. Paternal Love - Fr.6b*
    The left arete of the pillar.

  3. Bye Dad- Fr.6b **
    Harder,centre of pillar to same LO.

  4. Filial Duty - Fr.5 *
    The R arete.

  5. Fought To The End - Fr.5+
    Hanging crozzly groove.

  6. This Vicar's Tea Party - Fr.6b+
    Gnarly start stepping across from large boulder,then join route on right.

  7. Stingray - Fr.6c*
    From the top of the block move L and over the roof.

  8. Lemon Soul - Fr.6a*
    From the block follow the arete then L.

  9. A Mermaid Tale - Fr.5+*
    Wall R of block and arete..

  10. Dawsons Corner - Fr.5*
    Juggy corner.

  11. Dawsons Creek - Fr.5*
    Break R at second bolt of previous.

  12. Fistful of Tenners - Fr.4*
    Outstanding pillar.

  13. Under the Mattress - Fr.6a+*
    Wall R of pillar then roof direct to shared belay.

  14. Cash in the Attic - Fr.5*
    Slight bulge then on to upper wall and shared LO.

  15. Holds May Spin - Fr.5*
    As previous then slightly R moving back to same LO.

  16. Probate Pending - Fr.3+*
    Easily to step R onto ledge and common chain LO.

  17. Pysgod Wibblywobbly - Fr.5*
    Climb the wall to shared belay above ledge.

  18. Names from Rogers Profanisorous - Fr.5+*
    Wall to ledge ,shared belay on L.

  19. Scarfish - Fr.6a*
    Isolated pitch high above the ledge systems..

  20. Al Perchino - Fr.4+*
    Short black wall to shared LO..

  21. Scuttle - Fr4+*
    Another short wall to same LO.

  22. The Trevena Fish Hotel - Fr.4+*
    Long slab to isolated chain..

   ==Right Hand Pillars==

Above and R of the deep cave are a series of pillars with atmospheric routes

  1. Project with working rope
    NOT GLUED.

  2. The Naughty Step**
    Can be done when tide in from high ledge,gained easily from the Trevenna Fish Hotel or harder direct start.Step R from ledge ascend atmospheric groove.

  3. A Mermaids Footwork - Fr.6b*
    Pick your barnacle(R hand easier) start then a deceptive crack to upper wall.Shared LO.

  4. Flounder - Fr.6b*
    Barnacle start leads to L or R variant over the roof which join on upper wall and shared LO.

  5. Somewhere in her Smile She Knows - Fr.6b+*
    The central leaning pillar on pockets then the face above. If your hung-over use the cave instead of the pockets.

  6. Besetting Fears - Fr.6a*
    The right-hand pocketed pillar to joint the previous route.

  7. Horse Flavoured Shadows - Fr.5*
    Arete left of large ledge.

  8. Triton Left - Fr.5*
    Upto the large ledge and left-hand finish.

  9. Triton Right - Fr.5*
    Righthand finish.

Sheepbone Wall

BOLT POLICY: No bolting.

A gem of a crag located immediately below the seaward arete of Trial Wall. Scramble down to some ledges about 12m above the sea and abseil down one of the corners to a platform. The right-hand one (when facing seaward) is Chimney Crack, the left-hand one is Great Diedre. At the base of Chimney crack is an oval pool and a blunt arete to the left.


1. First Diedre 10m D

Climb the groove to the left of the blunt arete.

J.Talbot 00.00.1968


2. Mauk Wall 10m S,4a

Climb the steep wall right of the blunt arete and left of a prominent curving crack, passing a projecting block.

J.Talbot 00.00.1968


3. Curving Crack 10m HS,4b

Climb the rightward-slanting crack.

J.Talbot 00.00.1968


4. Chimney Crack 10m VD *

The obvious corner and chimney crack right of Curving Crack.

J.Talbot 00.00.1968


5. Skull 10m HS,4a

Climb the steep wall 1m right of Chimney Crack.

J.Talbot 00.00.1968


6. Cross 12m D

Climb Skull for 4m to a sloping ledge. Step right from this to finish up a square-cut groove.

J.Talbot 00.00.1968


7. Deep Cut 18m VD *

Climb the wall 3m right of Cross to gain and finish up a steep crack.

J.Talbot 00.00.1968


8. Great Diedre 12m S,4a *

The obvious black corner 6m right of Deep Cut.

J.Talbot 00.00.1968


9. Yellow Edge 12m S *

Start just right of Great Diedre. Climb the right wall of the arete until a leftwards traverse to it can be made. Follow it to the top.

J.Talbot 00.00.1968


10. Grated Wall 12 E1,5b

Climb the crack in the left wall of Great Diedre 11, finishing direct with difficulty.

M. Crocker 03.09.2003


11. Great Diedre II 15m VS,4c

Climb the corner 3m right of Yellow Edge, with a tricky overhang at 8m. A slight variant climbs the crack in the left wall (HVS,5b).

C.Hird, G.Evans, G.Richardson 00.00.1975


12. Pistas Canute 15m VS,4b *

Climb the arete dividing Great Diedre II and Slanting Chimney, coming in from the left.

A.Beaton, C.Allen, M.Danford 00.00.1989


13. Rhiannon’s Route 17m HVS,5a

Gain the Pistas Canute arete from the right.

A.Richardson, J.Beynon 00.00.1992


14. Slanting Chimney 14m VD

Ascend the obvious slanting crack.

M.Harber Pre-1978


15. Gambolling Gareth’s Arete 17m E1,5a *

Gain the arete to the right from the right and climb it direct.

A.Richardson, R.Lloyd, J.Beynon 00.00.1992


16. Gamble there’s a Hold 10m E3,5c

Approach from the right and follow the leftward-slanting crack right of Gambolling Gareth's Arete to a long, hard move where the crack closes.

M. Crocker - Onsight DWS 03.09.2003)


17. Recess Crack 17m VS,4c

Climb the square-cut recess 6m right of Great Diedre II and then the crack splitting its back.

J.Talbot 00.00.1968


18. Recess Arete 6m E1,5b

Climb the short hanging black arete forming the right edge of the recess of Recess Crack.

M. Crocker - Onsight DWS - 03.09.2003


19. Gamble There’s A Hold 16m E1,5b

The back arete forming the right edge of the recess.

M.Crocker solo 03.09.2003


20. Barnacle Ramp 17m D

The rightwards-rising crack and ramp right of Recess Crack.

J.Beynon solo 00.00.1992


21. Deep Water Go Slow 17m E3,5b *

The arete to the right.

M.Crocker solo 03.09.2003


At the right hand end of Sheepbone Wall is a cave. These two routes start from above the high water mark on a slabby ramp on the left.


22. Error’s Corner 9m E1,5b

Climb the corner, swinging right to finish.

M.Crocker, J.Harwood 07.09.2003


23. Error Flynn 12m E4,6a

Traverse fingerholds rightwards across the black wall above the cave to a crack. Follow the hairline crack and faint groove in the steepening wall to the top.

M.Crocker, J.Harwood 07.09.2003

Terrace Wall

BOLT POLICY: No bolting.

40m south of Trial Wall and Sheepbone Wall is an obvious terrace just above sea level, bounded on its right by a deep inlet. The route starts up the corner formed by the right (south) end of the terrace.


1. Zig Zag 15m VD

Climb the corner to a ledge, then take a vague groove in the wall above on some wobbly jugs.

J.Talbot 00.00.1968


2. Pillar Edge 15m HS,4a

Climb the left-hand arete of the inlet on its left side.

J.Talbot 00.00.1968


3. Central Gully 15m D

The original line has been rationalised. Take the left-hand crack in the gully.

J.Talbot 00.00.1968


4. Slab And Crack 15m D

Also rationalised. Climb the right-hand crack in the gully.

J.Talbot 00.00.1968


5. Deception 20m S

Just right of the deep inlet is a crack and corner at half-height. Gain this by the pocketed slab below.

J.Talbot 00.00.1968


6. Deceit 20m S

Gain and climb the less obvious corner to the right of Deception.

M.Harber 00.00.1982


7. Fisherman’s Bend 15m HS,4a

The centre of the wall 20m right of Deceit.

J.Talbot 00.00.1972

Sinister Sister Zawn

BOLT POLICY: No bolting.

40m further along the beach towards the Worms Head is a narrow zawn with a large jammed boulder at its back. Access is by scrambling down on the north side of the zawn.


1. My Favourite Colour 10m E4,6a

Start from a flat back ledge 12m above the zawn bed above the jammed boulder. Scramble up a mucky rift, then access the pink soaring crack. Exit right from this.

M.Crocker 04.09.2003


2. Spacetalk 10m E2,5c

From the top of the rift take the handrail rightwards to a commiting move onto a triangular hold gains the top.

M.Crocker, J.Harwood 07.09.2003


The next two routes start from the jammed boulder.


3. Pop Idol 18m E5,6b ***

Swing right into the right-hand of two cracks. Climb this until it closes then undercut left to and into overhangs. Pull up, PR into a pink groove and follow this to the top.

M.Crocker 07.09.2003


4. Pop-Eyed 18m E4,6a **

The crack and roofs right ot Pop Idol. The first ascensionist route description makes no sense, so good luck!

M.Crocker 03.09.2003


5. Splash And Grab 18m E6,6b *

The tapering wall to the right. Swing right from the boulder and move down the right hand crack to a horizontal break. Follow this right for 2m. Follow the black face above, trending slightly right to the left hand side of the arete (hex). Reach left to good holds and pockets in the thin upper wall. Gear is very specific.

M.Crocker 07.09.2003


6. Sinister Sister 21m E4,5c

Follow the arete 5m right of the jammed boulder to the break. Arrange protection and continue up the arete and groove, TR.

A.Sharp, P.Lewis 06.03.1988


7. Wiggly Woo 21m HS,4b

Climb the gully and obvious narrow pillar right of Sinister Sister. Some poor rock.

J.Beynon, R.Lloyd, A.Richardson 00.00.1992

Evening Wall

BOLT POLICY: No bolting.

60m south of Sinister Sister Zawn is a yellow wall with a distinctive calcite patch and a large ledge at half-height to the right. The first climb starts from the beach or when the sea is in can be reached by belaying from the large ledge on the right and stepping down a couple of meters to a high tide mark ledge. Either way you gain a small ledge 2m below a wide crack. The best belay is 30m up the bank!


1. Hey Mr Blue Sky 18m E1,5b

Cimb the wide crack to pass the ledge on the right. An awkward move gains the chockstone. Pull up onto the headwall and over the bulge, In place of the old peg, a nut can be used in a crack to the right to protect the friable finishing moves.

L.Davies, P.Bruten, P.Thomas 09.06.1986


2. Banana Split 12m E2,5c

Start at the large ledge at half-height on the right. Post rock fall this route offers technical climbing with no protection at all until a nut can be placed where the old peg was at 8m (shared with previous route). Ascend the groove on the left side of the ledge until a hard move gains the upper wall. Move right, making thin moves to finish directly.

P.Bruten, L.Davies 00.00.1986

Yellow Zawn

BOLT POLICY: No bolting.


1. Turning Japanese 18m E5,6a *

A route for Cyclone Rangers. Start at a large boulder. Climb a finger crack to a horizontal break then traverse right to a good slot on the yellow arete. Climb its left side.

M.Crocker, M.Ward 15.08.1987


2. Banzai! 15m E4,6a

Place bets now! A fine steep little route. Climb the arete easily to a sloping ledge. Make hard moves up a thin crack into a groove. Finish up a black wall heading slightly right.

M.Crocker, M.Ward 15.08.1987


60m right of Yellow Zawn and below An Audience of Sheep are three pillars, seen when looking out to sea. The following route climbs the sheer south west wall on the middle pillar.


3. The Secret 17m E5,6b **

A direct line taking the centre of the smooth wall. Abseil to a good ledge at 3m, or scramble in at low water. Climb leftwards, then back right on white crystal rock, passing a poor PR with difficulty, to the horizontal break. Take the centre of the wall to finish.

M.Crocker, M.Ward 15.08.1987

The Platform Area

BOLT POLICY: No bolting.

These routes lie on a small rock promontory, directly below the prominent arete of An Audience of Sheep and north of and parallel to the very obvious large flat sea level platform. Approach is best made by following a path down to a good platform, on the south side of the promontory.


1. Avoid Meeting The Portuguese Man Of War 40m VS,4a,4c,- **

When deep water soloing the sea is normally used for protection. Here it is used as a hold. High tide is essential. Best soloed for obvious reasons.

  1. 15m Drop down into the v-groove below the end of the path and traverse left at a low level under an obvious arete. Step up to belay in the through-cave.
  2. 12m Crawl through the through cave, then traverse the left wall (looking out to sea) to a platform on the arete.
  3. 13m Jump into the sea, at the lowest point of the buttress, swim across the zawn and finish easily up the wall on the far side of the zawn. (The leap can be made from the belay stance instead for added underwater time as The Leap Of Faith Finish).

L.Davies, P.Thomas 00.07.1989


2. Stardust 24m HS,4a **

A classic little pitch. Follow Avoid Meeting The Portuguese Man Of War until 5m before the arete visible from the start. Pull up over an overlap, then move left to gain cracks just right of the arete. Follow these to finish.

A.Sharp, J.Harwood 18.10.1981


3. Year of The Snail 24m VS,4b *

Start as for Stardust but continue up the centre of the wall.

M.Ward 16.08.1987

Poser Buttress

BOLT POLICY: No bolting.

A deep square-cut zawn 30m on, with a smooth south-facing wall containing four cracks. These are gained by abseil to a hanging stance. There is a big mooring ring can be used (just right of Splash Landing). Alternatively start from the floor of the zawn ¾ hour either side of low water. The routes on the greasy south wall will have to be done this way.


North Wall

1. Normal Service 20m VS,4b

The most seaward crack.

A.Sharp, J.Harwood 05.12.1981


2. Splash Landing 20m HVS,5a

The next crack to the right (landwards).

A.Sharp, J.Harwood 05.12.1981


3. Dicky Five Stones 20m E3,5c *

Good. From the mooring ring, climb the wall between Splash Landing and The Poser.

A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.00.1990


4. The Poser 20m E1,5b **

The third crack right from the sea. Good.

T.Penning, A.Sharp, J.Harwood 23.05.1982


5. Burning Rubber 20m E2,5b

The fourth crack.

T.Penning, A.Sharp, J.Harwood 23.05.1982

South Wall


6. Chlorophyll Corner 15m VS,4c

Climb a corner crack opposite Burning Rubber, near the back of the gully.

T.Penning, A.Sharp, D.Hillier 27.06.1982


7. Lobster Song 15m E2,5b

Start directly up the arete right of Chlorophyll Corner, swing left and climb the slab, TR.

L.Davies 00.00.1988


8. Cincinatti Kid 15m VS,4c

The crack just round the arete right of Chlorophyll Corner, in a narrow wall facing out of the gully.

T.Penning, D.Hillier, A.Sharp 27.06.1981


Kitchen Corner

Bolt Policy: No bolting.

The deep inlet at the end of the mainland. Access is by continuing along the bottom of the upper cliff line to reach easy ledges. The routes have not been checked for this guide and require abseil escapes.


1. Dove Crack 12m M

The wide chimney in the back of the cove.

D.Jones, R.Owen, J.Edwards 00.00.1958


2. Kitchen Slab 12m HS

The slab in the upper part of the cliff is gained and followed.

D.Jones, R.Owen, J.Edwards 00.00.1958

Retrieved from "https://swmc.org.uk/g_book/index.php?title=Rhossili_old&oldid=18627"