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Oxwich
** NEWS ** - Big land slip at Oxwich see Landslip/Rockfall at Oxwich Quarry
GR 506859 to 513850
Contents
TIDAL STATUS:
Oxwich Quarry: The only tidal routes are those to the right of Kissing The Pink in the quarry (4 hours either side of low water), although routes as far as Written In Red may be inaccessible during extremely high seas. The boulder-hopping approach to the Quarry can be awkward at high tide and is not recommended on initial visits. The easy walk in along the beach is possible 2 ½ hours either side of low water. The rest of the area is non-tidal.
BOLTING POLICY:
At Oxwich Quarry retro-bolting permissible with first ascensionist’s permission. Replacement of worn fixed gear on a point for point basis with bolts is permissible. New sports routes allowed.
PREAMBLE
Oxwich Quarry is the major sports climbing area of Gower, containing a large selection of fully equipped routes of most grades, especially 6b-7b+, but also including the hardest route in the guidebook. The red wall overlooking the sea is the best of the areas, with steep routes on good (some of them a little too good) holds. However, this wall does seep. Oxwich In The Woods dries much quicker and is very sheltered, but can be greasy and full of midges in hot weather. The routes Red With Rage and Kissing The Pink are compulsory classics.
ACCESS
Follow the A4118 past Nicholaston to an obvious left turn signposted to the Oxwich Bay Hotel by the folly. Follow the minor road down to the Oxwich Bay complex and park on the beach (a pay booth is normally open). If the tide is out, it is easy to walk along the west flank of the beach for 300m until the obvious red wall at the start of the quarry (not visible from the parking area) comes into view (GR506859). If the tide is up, walk over to the Oxwich Bay Hotel and follow the small road south to a chapel. It is possible to scramble down and hop over boulders to reach the start of the main crag. However, be warned that the rock is very greasy and accidents are common. Also the descent down at the end may mean swimming at high tide.
DESCENTS:
For Oxwich Point, walk off in either direction. The sports routes at Oxwich Quarry all have lower offs. Only one of the traditional routes in the quarry has no lower off, but it is possible to reach one with a little cunning.
Oxwich Bay Quarry (Crag Ox)
The routes are described from right to left (i.e. as approached).
- Steel Yourself - Fr.6a+ *
At the right side of the red wall is an undercut wall, with a vague arete bounding its right side. Crank up onto the wall from the right and climb up keeping left of the arete, to a finishing groove. A direct start is possible at Fr.6c+. 13m. - Settin’ Stone - Fr.7b
A hard move over the roof left of Steel Yourself, leads to a shallow groove. At the roof, pull left to a flake, then swing out onto the wall above the roof. A strange hold leads to the belay. 13m.
- Glue Year - Fr.7a **
Start left of Settin’ Stone beneath a large block at 2m. Pull round this and climb the groove to reach a hard finish. The large block has now fallen down and the start is much harder. 15m.
- Inspector Glueseau - Fr.6c+*
A good route to the left of Glue Year, following the groove in the angle of the wall. Start just left of Glue Year and climb up to a ledge. Follow a right-trending ramp, then pull out left to the BB. 15m.
- Foaming At The Gussett - Fr.7a+
The wall left of Inspector Glueseau,tricky at top.15m.
- Pissin’ The Sink - Fr.7b+
The short wall between Foaming At The Gussett and Kissin’ The Pink has a desperate sloping finish.15m. - Kissin’ The Pink - Fr.6c ***
A superb route up the flowstone forming the right arete of the prominent groove. 20m. - Missin’ The Drink - Fr.7a+
Rubbish and ooh yes it will hurt your finger. A short wall left of Kissin’ The Pink leads to a ledge, then a long move up on filthy rock gains the groove and lower off of Kissin’ The Pink. 20m.
To the left is a prominent prow high up on the crag. Left of this, above a rock step at the base of the crag are two routes. - The Morgue The Merrier - Fr.7c **
This is the right-hand line, which sports two difficult moves. 25m.
- Bitchin’- Fr.7c ***
The wall to the left of The Morgue The Merrier, has a desperate finale. 25m. G.Gibson 26.08.1997
There were two bolted projects to the left. The left hand one is open but both apparentley have been done on the crap gear already in-situ. - Red Snapper - Fr.7b+ **
About 10m left of the prow of Bitchin is an undercut section of the wall (three lines of bolts to the left). Climb this with a powerful move low down. Low in the grade. 20m. G.Gibson 19.07.1999
The wall to the left has a solitary bolt but no route yet. To the left a path leads up into the woods. - Written In Red - Fr.7b*
The wall immediately above the start of the path, with a very tricky move at half-height. From a large hold move up and right onto a huge flake and a very blind finish.20m. G.Gibson 06.07.1997 - Red Letter Day - Fr.7b+
As for Written In Red to the hard move, but instead of moving slightly right, continue straight up the arete above.20m. G.Gibson 19.07.1999 - Red With Rage - Fr.7a+ ***
Superb. Start just above the step in the path at the left-hand side of the tidal platform. Amble up to a BR, then climb the fingery wall on good flakes to a horizontal slot out on the left. Make a long rockover to a big sloper well up and right. Pull up more easily, and finish up the left-trending groove.22m. G.Gibson, R.Thomas 01.07.1995 - Mars Attacks - Fr.7a+ *
The wall left of Red With Rage. Instead of mantling directly up to the belay, climb the little arete on the left and move back right to finish.22m. G.Gibson 19.07.1997
16. The Milkier Way 15m E6,6c Fr7c
The vague scoop to the left of Mars Attacks, with some fingery climbing and a monstrous lurch at half-height. G.Gibson 26.08.1997
17. Red River Rock 15m E5,6b Fr7b **
The superb red wall to the left of The Milkier Way, moving left at the fourth BR to gain a flake and the belay of Two Of A Perfect Pair. G.Gibson 16.08.1997
18. Two Of A Perfect Pair 15m E6,6b Fr7b+
Left of Red River Rock is a prominent left facing shallow groove with a rather obvious stuck-back-on hold. Gain this with interest! Move easily up the groove, until a hard undercut and stretch right gains jugs and a BB. E.Travers-Jones 29.07.1996
19. Resin D’Etre 12m E5,6b Fr7a+ *
To the left of Two Of A Perfect Pair is an obvious circular hole at 3m. Climb up to this, and over the overlap to gain and finish up a groove. R.Thomas 00.00.1995
20. Beyond All Resin 12m E3,6a *
A route with a hard start, which eases thereafter. Start at a couple of pockets under an arete and pull up and onto the arete. BR. Finish up the jam crack. Medium Friends useful. R.Thomas, G.Gibson 28.05.1995
21. Little Cracker 14m HVS,5a
Follow the obvious banana-shaped crack to the same lower off as Beyond All Resin. Friends and threads useful. R.Thomas 00.00.1995
22. Sika This 12m E3,6b Fr7a
A route with a very frustrating start. Gain the good ledge at 2m left of Little Cracker, at a faint arete. Slap up a long, long way for thin edges, pull up and finish up the still tricky groove. R.Thomas 00.00.1995
23. Sniff That 10m E3,6a Fr6c
A good route up the groove to the left of I’m Sika This. R.Thomas 00.00.1995
The thin wall to the right is an open project. Send the cheque to Roy Thomas.
24. Red October 11m E4,6a Fr7a
The wall to the left again. R.Thomas 00.10.1995
25. Blight In August 8m E3,5c
The crack to the left of Red October is usually cheesy, TR. R.Thomas 00.08.1995
The next 50m is covered in ivy and the trees are too close to the crag to allow routes. The next routes start well along the path at a ‘tump’ marking the right end of the first proper bay in the woods. It contains a very obvious layback flake (Extra Ordinary LIttle Cough).
26. Tump Jumper 8m E3,6b Fr7a *
Not quite the one move wonder it looks. Jump from the tump onto the wall and climb the wall above. R.Thomas, G.Gibson 01.07.1995
Note that following a landslide in December 2009 the routes from Red Leicester to Sweet September inclusive are now gone. For those still wanting a tick the crux of Big Cheese can be climbed as a traverse on the northernmost boulder on the beach. The routes are recorded below for historic purposes only. The remaining rock looks impressive but could do with some more weathering and cleaning before yielding any new routes.
27. Sweet September 8m E4,6a Fr7a * The red wall right of the prominent layback flake in the bay. The start is a teaser. R.Thomas 00.00.1995
28. Extra Ordinary Little Cough/Nike 10m E1,5a * The well defined overhanging layback flake. R.Thomas, G.Gibson 29.05.1995
29. Ambrosia Mountain 12m E6,6b Fr7b+ Fundamentally unpleasant. The corner groove left of Extra Ordinary Little Cough is climbed on vicious lay offs to a hard move onto a ledge. Fight up the corner to the last BR before the BB, realise that the chain is completely out of reach and fall off. G.Gibson 29.05.1995
30. Sansarete 12m E7,6c 8a * The arete bounding the left side of the bay. Its left-hand side has an awkward start and some technical moves through an overlap. Continue with difficulty to catch the shallow depression up and slightly right of the double bolts before clipping the BB to finish. A.Berry 00.00.1996
31. Plum Duff 12m E5,6b Fr7b * About 20m left of Sansarete is another square-cut arete. Start on the left, but immediately swing round to climb its right side. G.Gibson 28.05.1995
To the right of the arete of Plum Duff is a leaning red wall.
32. Inferno 20m E7,6c Fr8a+ * The centre of the wall has a hard boulder problem at the top. A.Berry 31.05.1999
The crag now turns through a right angle.
33. Epoxy Clips Now 25m E4,6a Fr7a A mediocre route up the angle of the bay. G.Gibson, R.Thomas 28.05.1995
34. Root Grabbing 25m E4,5b The cracks to the left of Expoxy Clips Now. A.Berry, P.Nicholas 00.00.1994
35. For Sportsmen Of The Epoxy Clips 25m E3,6a Fr6c+ *** A classic. Start up the arete above the rock step. Climb this with difficulty, until it is possible to ‘throw one and hold it’. Pull onto the slab and amble up to the top wall, which is climbed on good holds to a BB. Well protected. R.Thomas, G.Gibson 28.05.1995
The quarry now drops down at a prominent rock step.
36. The Route Of All Evil 25m E8,7a Fr8b+ * The hardest route in the guidebook. The undercut groove in the centre of the wall running left from the rock step. A.Berry 10.07.1999
The hanging face to the left of The Route Of All Evil is currently a project.
37. Big Cheese 20m E5,6a Fr7a ** To the left is a prominent flake high up. Gain this by some tricky moves, then follow the strenuous flake crack more easily to a final superb move up to the belay from a handjam. R.Thomas 00.00.1997
38. Whey It Up 20m E6,6c Fr7c A lot harder than it looks with a typically desperate Oxwich belay clip. Start in a faint groove in the wall to the left of Big Cheese. Climb the groove easily to what looks like a huge hold, which actually slopes at 40 degrees. Flail desperately about, until able to put the clip into the BB. G.Gibson 21.04.1995
39. Say Cheese Please 20m E5,6b Fr7a+ * A good route, with a hard one move crux. Just left of Whey It Up is an arete bounding a big red groove. Climb the arete direct. G.Gibson, R.Thomas 28.08.1995
40. Red Leicester 20m E2,5b Fr6a The big red groove. R.Thomas, G.Gibson 21.04.1995
The routes now start again, and can still be reached by crossing the mordor-like landscape where the crag used to be.
The big arete and the flake to the left are currently projects.
41. Resination 15m E4,6a Fr7a
The groove/wall just right of the big angled corner of Resin Hate. Better than it looks. G.Gibson 20.07.1997
42. Resin Hate 15m E2,5b
The big angled corner. BB. R.Thomas 00.00.1995
43. The Oxwich Blobby 15m E6,6b Fr7b+
The wall to the left of Resin Hate is often greasy. G.Gibson 19.07.1997
44. The Oxwich Bobby 15m E4,6a Fr7a
The cheesy wall left of The Oxwich Blobby and right of a pillar formed by jam cracks. G.Gibson 09.10.1995
45. No Resin, Why? 15m Fr 6b+
An interesting route. Grapple up the pillar, which is hard, to an easier jam crack that is also hard. BB. R. Thomas 09.10.1994
The crag now turns another corner.
46. Picking Berries 12m E4,6a Fr7a
Climb the cheesy groove just round the corner. R. Thomas, G.Gibson 01.07.1995
47. Figura 12m E5,6b Fr7b
The arete left of Picking Berries. G.Gibson 00.00.1999
48. Stoned Dates 12m E4,6a Fr6c+
Left of the left arete of Picking Berries is a shelf at 2m. Awkwardly gain this, and climb the tufa pockets above. R.Thomas 16.08.1998
The next routes are on the shorter buttress to the left.
49. Squeezing The Pips 6m VS,4c
The traditional crack left of the platform. BB. R.Thomas 00.00.1997
50. Treading The Grapes 6m E2,5c Fr6b
A good technical problem up the wall to the left of Squeezing The Pips. R.Thomas 00.00.1997
51. Pipsqueak 6m E2,6a Fr6b+
Left of Treading The Grapes is a vague crack and ramp leading to undercuts and a BB. R.Thomas 00.00.1998
52. Teasing The Zits 6m E2,6a Fr6c
The slabby wall to a finishing crack left of Pipsqueak. R.Thomas 00.00.1998
A little further on is the last buttress of any significance, The Secret Oxwich.
53. Jury’s Out 10m E4,6b Fr7a *
The first feature on the buttress is a thin crack. Climb this, then make a tricky sequence into a groove out left. Hard moves on undercuts lead to a BB. R.Thomas 00.00.1996
The wall to the left of Jury’s Out, with a prominent boss of rock is a project.
54. Before The Beak 10m E5,6b Fr7a+ *
The sharp arete in the centre of the buttress. R.Thomas 00.00.1997
55. Swift Justice 8m HVS,5a
The traditionally protected groove to the left of Before The Beak, BB. R.Thomas 00.00.1996
56. Open Verdict 10m E2,6a Fr6b
The square cut groove/arete to the left of Swift Justice. R.Thomas 00.00.1996
57. The Last Arete 6m E2,6b Fr6c
The short arete on the left side of the buttress, with a huge jump, BR. At the top swing to the BB of Open Verdict. A.Berry 00.00.1996
The wall to the left of Jury’s Out, with a prominent boss of rock is a project.
Oxwich Bay Quarry South
Oxwich South is another quarried area about 10 minutes walk south from the end of the main crag. The easiest approach is to walk in along the beach past the main walls, then continue passing a tower on the right, to reach a quarried spur which blocks the way. Walk up under the spur into the woods to reach the wall in a few minutes. The way back out, is to walk round the right hand side of the crag to reach an obvious path, which leads up right to come back out at the Oxwich Bay Hotel. This path can be used to access the crag at high tides for future visits.
The crag itself is sheltered and of good quality quarried limestone. The main wall is about 100m wide and about halfway along is a cave at the base of the crag, with a project coming out of it. The first route is located on a short tower separated from the main crag by a gully.
Routes described from left to right as approached from the beach. Routes regeared 2010.
- Load Of Bullocks Fr 6a+
Climb the right hand face of the tower with more difficulty than first appearances suggest.7m. - Underneath The Larches Fr 6b+
Gain the left hand arête of the main wall via the thin crack below.15m. - Life’s Too Short Fr 6c*
Climb the centre of the wall to the right via some long reaches.15m. - Snatched From The Cradle Fr6b+
Climb the wall just left of the prominent groove. At the top, rock out left a little to the BB. Holds in the next route reduce the grade considerably.15m. - Cradle Snatcher Fr 6a+
Gain the prominent groove via a thuggy start over the initial overlap.15m. - Baby Going Boing Boing Fr6b+
Overcome the bulge to the right,teeter up the vague groove to a thuggish finish, BB out to the right.15m - Laughing Boy Fr7b
Climb the bulging wall to the right to gain the BB of the last route.15m. - Baby Bouncer Fr6c+
The wall 5m to the right.15m. - Teenage Kicks Fr6c+ **
The vague hanging arête to the right.15m.
A few metres to the right is a small cave at ground level. Just left of this is a broken groove
- My Inheritance Fr6b+ *
Pull into the base of the groove, step left and climb the wall direct.15m. - Ox-Over Moon Fr6a**
Climb the groove, moving slightly right to finish.15m. - Open Wide-Project Fr 7?
Old 8mm (probably Adrian's) and a row of holes lead over the roof.Treat yourself!!13.57m. - Dynamo Kiev Fr7b+
Start the wall to the right with a flying leap!15m. - Grated Expectations Fr7a*
Start the wall to the right with another flying leap!15m. - Taj's Route Fr6c *
Start just right of a groove and make an awkward move up to gain a a narrow right-facing groove.15m. - Suppose I Try Fr6a
Climb the prominent shallow groove to the right.15m. - Anal Gesia Fr6b
Make awkward moves up the wall right of the shallow groove to eventually gain an overlap. Finish directly over this to gain the BB of the previous routes.15m. - Nicked Fr6a+ *
The wall right again.15m. - Toxicology Fr6c+ *
The wall right again.15m. - Hubble, Rubble Fr6b*
The groove to the right.15m - Soil And Shovel Fr6a *
Climb the wall behind the tree.15m. - Anoek Clear Missile Fr 6b
Climb the awkward wall to the right of the tree, with no deviation.15m - Dirt Box Fr 6b *
The thin crack to the right passing 2PRs.15m. - Cradle of Filth VS,4b *
The prominent jam crack to the right.15m. - Filthy Snatch Fr6b **
Climb the centre of the wall to the right of the crack. Delicate and complex.15m. - Cauldron of Satyr Fr6b *
Climb the crack on the right side of the wall.15m. - Devil’s Brew Fr6a+*
Climb the seam bounding the right side of the wall.15m.
R.Thomas 16.07.2005
