Oxwich Point

Contents

Steve Hill, Sea Breeze. Photo by Melinda Morrell

Gower

TIDAL STATUS:

Non-tidal.

BOLTING POLICY:

No bolting allowed

PREAMBLE

For an out of the way, beautiful place, Oxwich Point has few rivals. The rock here is weathered , cemented limestone - making for some interesting and unlikely holds. The range of grades means there is something for everyone. Protection is generally good if you are creative.

ACCESS

Follow the A4118 past Nicholaston to an obvious left turn signposted to the Oxwich Bay Hotel by the folly. Follow the minor road down to the Oxwich Bay complex and park on the beach (a pay booth is normally open). Follow the road to the chapel and take the footpaths through the woods and to the headland after about 25 minutes (GR513850).

Oxwich Point can also be reached from Oxwich Green, going down the lane alongside the caravan site and following a ramp towards the crag. Limited parking is available.

DESCENTS:

Walk off in either direction.

The Routes

There are two buttresses at Oxwich Point, West and East Buttress. The East Buttress is the first one encountered on the approach. The West Buttress is further on, just west of the headland.

The minor east buttress, easily recognised by its prominent over¬hanging nose, is passed en route to the headland.

East Buttress

1. Mortuary Crack 9m D
   This follows the obvious crack running up behind the blocky nose.
   
   
2. Vampire Wall 11m VS,4c
   Start at the inner edge of the wall right of Mortuary Crack. Traverse to a small ledge in the middle. Move onto the nose and over it.
   
   
3. Islay 15m VS,4b
   Start to the right of Vampire Wall below an ivy covered wall on the seaward side immediately below the overhanging nose. Climb a corner and up to sentry box on the right. Continue up to the overhang, then move onto the left wall and over the corner to finish.
   
   

The West Buttress is more prominent. It is characterised by bulging walls split by a series of steep corners.

West Buttress

1. Far South West Corner 12m VD
   The prominent corner on the left of the buttress.
   
   
2. South Wall 15m HS
   Climb the wall 3m right of Far South West Corner to half-height, then move left to finish as for Far South West Corner.
   
   
3. Captain Stabbing Visits Uranus 14m HVS,4c
   Climb South Wall, but continue direct up the shallow left-facing corner forming the left side of the pillar
   
   
4. Hide The Sausage 14m E1,5b
   Start 2m left of the right arête of the wall. Gain the shallow groove directly and follow it passing a poor PR on the left.
   
   Round to the right is a narrower chimney (South West Corner).
   
   
5. Crowbar 12m HVS,5a
   The groove right of the left arete of the wall running across to South West Corner.
   
   
6. Lichen Wall 12m HVS,5a
   Climb the centre of the wall which runs across to South West Corner.
   
   
7. South West Corner 12m HS
   Follow the shallow corner. Loose in its upper section.
   
   
8. South West Chimney 12m HS
   Further right is a much more prominent corner. Follow the wide chimney crack in the back.
   
   
9. No Hold Barred 14m HVS,5a
   The vague cracks up the wall to the right of the chimney.
   
   
10. Sea Breeze 14m HVS,5a
    Start up the right hand crack on the wall to the right of South West Chimney. Move right across the face and finish up through the bulges at the top.
    
    
11. Take a Bow 14m E2, 5c
    Use the start of Oxbow to get standing on a spike at 10 feet. From here, place gear in pockets in the wall to your left, traverse left onto then up the steep wall to a break. Take the broken groove/crack to the top taking care at the top out.
    
    
12. Oxbow 12m E1 5b
    The crackline just around the arete from South West Chimney. Upgraded from VS!
    
    
13. Benbow 12m E1 5b
    The steep crack line on the right side of the overhanging face. Also upgraded from VS!
    
    

Routes

East Buttress

1. B.Winterburn, C.Manison, J.Procter, J.Hobbs 00.00.1971
2. J.Procter, B.Winterburn 00.00.1971
3. J.Procter, T.Kitchen, B.Winterburn 00.00.1971

West Buttress

1. R.Owen, D.Jones 00.00.1959
2. J.Talbot, D.Thomas 00.00.1959
3. G.Ashmore, R.Thomas, N.O’Neill 06.02.2005
4. G.Ashmore, R.Thomas, N.O’Neill 06.02.2005
5. M.Murray, R.Wadey 00.06.1995
6. J.Talbot, D.Thomas 00.00.1959 FFA E.Kellar, - A.Richardson - Direct 00.00.1989
7. R.Owen, D.Jones 00.00.1958
8. R.Owen, D.Jones 00.00.1958
9. R.Wadey, P.Nicholas 00.00.1994
10. S.Hill, C.Wyatt 23.06.2010
11. C. Wyatt 23.06.2010
12. J.Bullock, G.Evans Pre-1981
13. J.Bullock, G.Evans Pre-1981