Nash Point

Contents

Main Wall

Bridgend Area

GR SS 915 683

BOLTING POLICY

Retro-bolting permissible with first ascensionists permission. Replacement of worn fixed gear on a point for point basis with bolts is permissible. New sports routes acceptable.

PREAMBLE

Crumbly looking sea cliffs with big flat breaks. A good fun spot.

Be prepared for a pump beyond your initial imagining.

Some climbs are possible in the rain. Wear a helmet and keep non combatants (children etc.) down the beach well away from the blockhead zone..Ravaged by the 2012/13 winter rains and tides.The boulder beach is level with the first bolts and the "arch" and nearby cliff are a pile of rubble on the foreshore.

ACCESS

This is the stretch of crags on the southern part of Nash Point. Not far from St Donat's.

There is a pay and display car park at the top of the cliffs. Park here and walk down the U shaped valley. The cliffs start immediately on your left and continue around the corner. The old gentleman at the car park/cafe is a bit of a busybody so to avoid causing offence keep your ropes in the sac until you are out of his sight. Outside of Easter-Sept he is no problem and the parking is free.

DESCENTS

Routes have individual bolt belays.

THE ROUTES

This first part of the crag has collapsed and the resulting jumble of blocks are halfway up the crag,probably best left alone!!!

1. Dai's Lemma - Fr. 6a
   Pumpy climbing on solid rock. Easier to start now the pebbles are high. 12m
   
   
2. Sutton's Stoned - Fr. 5+
   Similar stuff on flat breaks. 12m
   
   
3. Morgensten's Retort - Fr. 5+
   Looks a bit loose at the top. 12m
   
   
4. Von Neuman's Expression - Fr. 4+
   Nice climbing on the interestingly weathered mineral vein. 12m
   
   
5. Nash Equilibrium - Fr. 5
   More of the same,pumped yet? 12m
   
   
6. Tight as Matt's Underpants - Fr. 5
   Tight as his lower off. 12m
   
   
7. Tidy as Matt's Toybox - Fr. 5+
   Take a leaver biner. 12m
   
   There are more around the corner (through the arch) at a similar grade.In the boulder filled zawn find.....
   
   
8. Frege's Grundgesetze - VD
   The slabby left side of the zawn. 20m
   
   
9. Russell's Paradox- Fr. 6b
   The steep right wall of the zawn. 15m
   
   The walls to the right have only one route so far.
   
   
10. Myles Away- Fr. 6a
    Deceptively steep.20m
    
    

Steve Delaney, Gary Lewis and Nicola enjoying Nash Point sunshine

FIRST ASCENTS

1. R.Thomas N.O'Neill
2. R.Thomas
3. R.Thomas
4. R.Thomas
5. R.Thomas
6. M.Hirst R.Thomas G.Ashmore
7. R.Thomas N.O'Neill
8. R.Thomas N.O'Neill
9. R.Thomas M.Jordan