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Mount Pleasant (X2)
Quarry X2 Mount Pleasant
Bolting Policy
Retro-bolting allowed with first ascentionist permission. New sports route allowed.
Preamble
A compact sports quarry located high on the mountain above Mount Pleasant. The quarry faces west and is quick drying with all-day sun. The rock in the lower tier is dubious but the upper tier is compact sandstone and includes an interesting jamming crack. The quarry offers an alternative to X1 for the lower to middle grade sports climber. A good summer evening venue.
Access
(NGR: E:308125, N 198500 or ST 0812, 9850) From the south, follow the A4054 through Edwardsville until Mount Pleasant is reached. It is recommended that one parks on the southern side of the village of Mount Pleasant. Walk south along the A4054 until a track is seen which doubles-back towards the rear of the houses in Mount Pleasant. Follow this track up (i.e. with forest on your right) to three sheds. At a lay-by adjacent to the sheds a small path enters the forest. Follow this path up steeply until it reached the incline track to the quarry. Follow the incline up, past some fallen trees. The incline ends in the quarries lower tier. A steep scramble up to the right is necessary to achieve the Upper Tier.
Descent
Access to and from the top of the quarry is difficult and all routes have lower-offs or adjacent lower-offs.
Routes
Lower Tier
- Strap-On Sundays Fr 5
D. Emanuel, K. Davies (02/05/2008)
Impress your friends by climbing up 50ft of loose rock. Climb through the base of the tree, across the ledge, wading through waist-deep ivy, to reach the base of the cliff. Climb directly up using whichever holds you trust, cheat to cross the shale band and lower off. Likely to become a Fr.6 once completely cleaned.20m.
- Blue (?) Project
The slightly overhanging red wall behind the tree.12m. - The Bird Reich Fr 5
Ascend the face between the deep crack and the arête using either (or neither) to gain lower-offs. D Emanuel, K Davies (02/05/2008) – Dirty and lots of loose rock – Not advised.12m.
Upper Tier
Gain this by scrambling up the heather on the right to a ledge beneath the crag.This is the only part of the crag that any sane person is likely to climb,can be pleasant in the afternoon sun.
- Carpet Muncher Fr 5
R. Thomas, D. Emanuel, K. Davies (07/05/2008)Climb the arête and up into the corner.10m. - Comfortable Shoes Fr 5+
R. Thomas, K. Davies, D Emanuel (07/05/2008)Climb the face to the right of the corner, entering the corner to reach the top.10m. - Oyster Sauce Fr 6a R. Thomas, K. Davies (02/05/2008)Direct ascent of the face below the scoop.10m.
- Frumpy Pig Skin Fr 6a
K Davies (02/05/2008)Climb ledges to gain vertical crack. Balance on ledge to enter crack then climb up and rightwards.10m - Project (Desperate?)
A direct ascent of the slab to the previous belay.10m - Bout Royale Fr 6b
D. Emanuel, K. Davies, R. Thomas (07/05/2008)An ascent of the rightmost crack on the face. Deceptive and devious - Knuckle eating crack.10m. - Lemon Licker Fr 6b
R. Thomas, K. Davies, D. EmanuelAn ascent of the face in the right of the quarry. Climb on hidden pockets to gain the lower-offs. The ledges to the right of the route are not permitted as holds.10m.
