Lower Cave Area

Rose-line Fr.7b+. Climber: Stephan Doerr, Photograph: Simon Rawlinson

Dinas Rock

1. The Dandilion Slab - Fr.7a
   Follow Watchmen to its 3rd bolt, then rock up onto the slab. A line of bolts leads to the lower off.
   
   
2. Watchmen - Fr.7b ***
   An alternative finish to Rose-Line. From the obvious large spike, finish directly up the vertical crack, or alternatively, move up and left to rock-over onto the arete forming the left edge of the cave.
   
   
3. Rose-Line - Fr.7b+ ***
   The left edge of the cave opposite Kennelgarth Wall. Start on the hanging left arete and follow this rightwrds across horizontal breaks to the jam crack line that runs through the roof and up into an attractive hanging groove line.
   
   
4. Sangreal - Fr.7b+ ***
   A Link up with a bit of new Climbing. Follow Rose-Line to the lip and instead of pulling over continue traversing right and finish up Rat on a Hot Tin Roof
   
   
5. Imperial Girl - E4,5c *
   The obvious jam crack was reached from the left and followed with an excessive expenditure of effort past 2TRs to easier ground. (Un)fortunately the start has fallen down. 20m
   
   
6. Smeagol - A2
   Climb the roof crack 1m right of the left edge of the cave. 24m
   
   
7. Smashed Rat - Fr.7c ***
   Roof crack between Rose-Line and Rat on a Hot Tin Roof. Finish as for Rose-Line.
   
   
8. Rat on a Hot Tin Roof - Fr.7b ***
   Starting at the back of the cave, thrutch up to a no hands rest at the obvious arm of rock. Traverse left across the hanging fin on superb incut holds until a short hanging arete and slab are reached at the lip of the cave. Improvise a way into the tube, up and right, then lean out to clip the chain using a right hand undercut in the tube. The first bolt is intended to be stick clipped and the Q-draw removed after the second Q-draw has been clipped - this avoids excessive rope drag. 21m
   
   
9. Basilica - Fr.7b+ **
   A Link up with a bit of new Climbing. Follow Rat on a Hot Tin Roof until established on the hanging arete, Then pull left and finish up Rose-line. Worth clipping all the clips on Rat to prevent rope drag around the hanging block, this will probably make sense once you're up there.
   
   
10. Apathy - A2
    Climb the roof crack to the right of Rat on a Hot Tin Roof and finish up the wall above. 24m
    
    
11. Strider - HVS,4c *
    A good climb taking the obvious chimney and arete to the right of the cave. Climb the chimney, the slab and a shallow groove to the left of a niche. Step down and right, then move up and right across a steep slab to the arete. Traverse right to finish up a groove. During a recent scaling and de-vegetation of this area by the Forestry Commission, a large glued in abseil station was placed on the nose of the arete. 39m
    
    
12. Strider Direct - HVS,5a
    Start at a crack just right of the chimney. Climb this moving left, then right onto the face of the buttress. Continue past small trees to a steep slab, then move right at the arete, which is followed past some loose rock to the top. 35m
    
    

Topo by: Simon Rawlinson

CATS WALL

The routes start from a vegetated ledge above and to the right of the cave. The fixed gear will need replacing, this isn't so bad as you will be needing to ab in and clean the routes anyway.

1. Cats - E2,5b
   Worthwhile. Start from the left end of the ledge. Tiptoe left to reach a TR and good holds. Swing left and climb more easily to the top. 15m
   
   
2. Evita - E3,6a
   Technical climbing on good rock. Start below a small corner on the left of the ledge. Climb past a PR at 4m and continue to a ledge. Finish up and right. 13m
   
   
3. Picnic at Hanging Rock - HVS,5a
   Start from the middle of the ledge and climb the obvious corner. 13m
   
   
4. The Horror Show - E3,6a
   Start from the right end of the ledge. Climb the bulging wall to a good rest below a thin crack, climb the crack, TR, TB. Abseil. 9m
   
   

Rat on a Hot Tin Roof Fr.7b. Climber: Simon Rawlinson

First Ascents

THE LOWER CAVE

1. S. Rawlinson 05.06.2011
2. S. Rawlinson 00.00.2010
3. S. Rawlinson 03.06.2009
4. S. Rawlinson 06.06.2009
5. T.Penning, J.Harwood 24.07.1984
6. P.Thomas Pre-1973
7. M. Richards 24/Jun/2009
8. A.Sharp, P.Lewis 1pt 00.00.1984 (E5,6a 1pt)
   S. Rawlinson 26.03.2009 (Free)
9. S. Rawlinson 06.06.2009
10. P.Thomas, C.Elliot 00.00.1975
11. P.Thomas, C.Horsfield 00.00.1970
12. Unknown Pre-1978

CATS WALL

1. T.Penning, M.Learoyd, A.Sharp 12.05.1985
2. T.Penning, M.Learoyd, A.Sharp, P.Lewis 12.05.1985
3. M.Learoyd, A.Sharp, P.Lewis, T.Penning 12.05.1985
4. A.Sharp, P.Lewis, T.Penning, M.Learoyd 12.05.1985

Dinas Main Crag

Rose-line and Rat on a Hot Tin Roof Climbers: Alan Rosier / Nik Goile Photograph: Steve