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Love Of Ivy Area
THE ROUTES
This is the extensive area of undercut slabs and walls 50m on from The Inflated Roundhead Area. The first routes start on a diamond shaped slab with an overlap at 1/3rd height
1. Connect One Fr.6a
The first bolt line of this section. From the last BR go diagonally up and right to the BB of South West Guru. Use a sling on the tree above the last bolt to keep the heart flutters at bay! 15m
2. South West Guru Fr.6b
The next line on the two tiered slab, finishing up a seam, the best of the bunch. 14m
3. Deadly Nightshade Fr.6c
Climb the centre of the tiered slab via a hard rock-over. Now missing a hold at the crux!! 14m
4. Screaming Lampshades Fr.6c+
Start right of Deadly Nightshade and just left of the cave. Make a hard move up over the overlap, then easily up to the last BR. Sidle up and left to the BB of Deadly Nightshade. 12m
5. Big Ears Takes Flight Fr.6c
Overcome the roof of the cave 2m right of its left-hand end. Continue more easily up the slab, TB. 11m
The next few routes are currently overgrown.
6. The Wake Fr.6b
Start at the right-hand side of the cave and pull up onto a big flake to clip the first BR. Step down, then climb up 1m to the right of the BR. Step left onto the big jug under the BR. Make a tricky move left, then continue up on superb conglomerate micro-holds to finish. 11m
7. Bob’s Birthday Party Fr.6b
Start down and left of the sapling. Climb to it, then move left. Make puzzling moves up the slab to a thin flake. Move up then gain the BB of The Wake. 14m
8. Cujo Fr.6c *
Good climbing with a desperate stretch to finish. As for Bob’s Birthday Party to the sapling, but move straight up to the top of the flake. Rock up the slab on a thin conglomerate strip, then make increasingly difficult moves up the steepening wall to a big hidden jug over the top. 15m
9. Thinner Fr.6c+ *
Start at a clearing 8m to the right of Cujo, and down and left of the obvious layback corner crack. Climb the left hand bolt line to gain the slab right of Cujo, then take a thin and fairly desperate line up the wall above on some conglomerate holds to another stretching finish. 20m
10. The Running Man Fr.7a *
Typical Sharpy stuff, with two very thin moves. Start at the thin layback crack right of Cujo and climb this easily to the slab. Move up the steepening slab to the thin moves and make a slightly unnerving mantle up to finish. Step left to the lower off of Thinner. 20m
To the Right of 'The Running Man' the crag now has been cleaned up and the routes are currently in very good condition. There is also some worthwhile bouldering to be had up to the first bolt of some routes
11. Miss Alto Fr.6b *
A line that cuts up to and through For Love of Ivy. Friend 3 useful. BB. 18m
12. For Love Of Ivy HVS,5a
The big layback corner crack where the slab becomes a wall. 27m
There have been several (very minor) rockfalls beneath the 'Love of Ivy' crack this year, for no obvious reason, so be aware. There are also concerns from the Forestry Commission that the buttress could be unstable. Please report any obvious signs of movement or new rockfalls to SWMC. A 'tell-tale' installed at the top of the crack could aid in confirming if any movement is occurring.
13. The Regulators Fr.7c *
A hard line directly up the steep arete to the right of For Love Of Ivy. Start up De-Regulators (1st 2 bolts) then traverse to the base of the arête and get your guns out! If the rattling foothold breaks off, please glue it back on. 23m
14. The De-Regulators Fr.7b **
The wall to the right of The Regulators is an excellent sustained outing with crux at the top. 20m
15. Beware of Poachers Fr.6c **
An excellent route that starts up De-Regulators before moving rightwards to the obvious crackline and groove. BB. The Ivy will encroach and fill the crack and groove if not regularly pruned. 20m
16. Open Roads Fr6b+ *
A cheeky pull over the roof provides a short hard section, finish at the top of the Beware of Poachers groove. 20m
17. Squash The Squaddie Fr6b+ *
Follow a crack, move left at a large flake and gain the right hand end of the strip roof at half height. Reachy moves through the shield above lead to jugs and a traverse leftwards to the B.B of Beware of Poachers. 20m
18. Unnamed Route I E1,5b
A defunct route since the development of the Adam’s Family routes. Start from the base of Sqaush The Squaddie and follow the diagonal rampline up and right. Arc back left through an overlap to finish at a tree. 31m
19. Thousand Yard Stare Fr6c+ **
A hard start, but don't worry the climbing eases gradually / slightly with height. Run out at the top, tree belay. 15m
20. Pugsley Fr7a **
A route of continuous technical difficulties and very rewarding. Gain the roof at 6m and tackle this on it's left side to reach a narrow lay-back arete, continue, trending slightly rightwards to finish. 15m
21. Munsterosity Fr7a *
A little monster where the difficulties are over quickly. Take the right side of the cracked rib forming the arete of the wall. Pull over the overhang and waltz up to the top. 12m
Munsterosity replaces Herman Munster (A.Sharp, T.Benjamin, A.Brown 1983), that pulled up the wall to the right and now has a dangerously loose block.
22. Morticia Fr.7a *
Excellent steep climbing on good rock. (Though it could do with an intermediate bolt between No's 2 and 3, best use a long sling on R.P.). 14m
First Ascents
1. Supersedes Bulgy Bear (P.Donnithorne, N.Thomas 1988). G.Gibson, R.Thomas 03.02.1997
2. A.Sharp, P.Lewis 26.04.1988
3. A.Price solo 00.10.1988
4. G.Gibson, R.Thomas 03.02.1997
5. R.Thomas 03.03.1997
6. R.Thomas 03.03.1997
7. R.Powles, A.Sharp, P.Lewis 01.10.1988
8. G.Gibson 03.02.1997
9. G.Gibson, R.Thomas 29.03.1997
10. A.Sharp 01.10.1988
11. G.Gibson, R.Thomas, H.Gibson 28.03.1997
12. C.Connick, C.Smith 00.05.1979
13. G.Gibson 25.05.1997
14. G.Gibson 01.02.1998
15. P.Donnithorne 04.10.1988 A. Price, A.Long - Direct 00.00.1988
16. G.Gibson 05.01.1997
17. A.Price, S.Elias 00.09.1988
18. L.Francombe, A.Reed 00.00.1981
19. A.Price, S.Thomas 00.10.1988
20. G.Gibson, R.Thomas 21.04.1995
21. G.Gibson 27.05.1995
22. G.Gibson, R.Thomas 27.05.1995
