Llantrisant Drugs Cliff

Contents

South East Wales Sandstone

PREAMBLE

A very sheltered and fast drying little crag, albeit of somewhat limited scope. Worth a visit in conjunction with Coedely or Trebanog. Now completely re-bolted on a point for point basis.

ACCESS

This is the small quarry, the top of which is just visible to the east of the A4119 on Llantrisant Common. Although there is an easier way in through the housing estate, this is harder to describe, so take the described approach on your first visit, and walk out right via the path to the estate to find the best way for any subsequent visits. Park in the superstore complex and walk back up and turn down the A4119 (Rhondda) road. Walk down this for 1/4 mile to just before a roundabout. Cross the road (E6 in bad traffic) to a footpath sign by a tarmac area. Follow the zig zag path up the hill to reach the quarry in 5 minutes.

THE ROUTES

1. Something To Do With Drugs - 12m, E2,5c, Fr6a+
   The left-hand bolt line in the quarry.
   
   
2. After Effect- 9m, E1,6a, Fr6b+
   The slab to the right has a hard start, but is easy thereafter.
   
   
3. Drugs Make You Fall Off - 12m, E2,6a, Fr6b+
   As for After Effect to the second BR, then move left to the second BR on Something To Do With Drugs, finishing as for that route.
   
   
4. Virgo Intactae - 9m, HVS,5a, Fr5 *
   The crack at the right hand side of the face. 2PRs, BB.
   
   
5. Ant Hill Mob - 11m, E1,5c, Fr6a+
   A route up the arete to the right, climbed on its right hand side. 2BRs, PR. There is no lower off and the PR is in cheese, so it is better to climb back down.
   
   
6. Unnamed - 9m, VS,4a
   The wall in the bay to the right. Quite loose and muddy.
   
   
7. Crackola - 9m, VS,4a
   
   

FIRST ASCENTS

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1. Llantrisant Deal Team - 1991
2. Llantrisant Deal Team - 1991
3. Llantrisant Deal Team - 1991
4. Llantrisant Deal Team - 1991
5. The Ant Hill Mob - 1992
6. Llantrisant Deal Team - 1991
7. M.Crocker solo - 25.10.2000

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