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Trebanog

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South East Wales Sandstone

BOLTING POLICY

Retro-bolting permissible with first ascensionists permission. Replacement of worn fixed gear on a point for point basis with bolts is permissible.

PREAMBLE

A moderately good, pretty solid, low-lying crag, with a sunny aspect and many routes in the lower grades. It can occasionally be windy. Unfortunately there is a lot of broken glass at the bottom of the crag and visits with dogs are probably not wise for this reason. There are plenty of concrete fence posts to belay from at the top of the crag. Due to its relatively low height and easy angle a large number of extremely trivial 'filler ins' have been claimed. As many of these as possible have been included but you will need plumb balls, some string and a ruler to climb them independently.

ACCESS

Take the A4233 to Trebanog, taking the Tonypandy turn off at the traffic lights in the centre of the village. the crag is 200m down the road on the right hand side. If on foot buses run up from Porth.

DESCENTS

It is easy and obvious to walk around either end of the crag.

THE ROUTES

Left Hand End

At the left hand end of the crag is a sharp left hand arête.

  1. Howell's Arête - HVS, 5a
    If de-vegetated, the arête at the extreme left hand end of the crag is climbed on it's left. 6m

  2. Howell's Arete Right - HVS,5c
    A good extended boulder problem up the arete on it's right hand side. 6m

  3. Pete's Boulder Problem - E2, 6b/c
    The brushed wall to the right of the arete. 6m

  4. Loose Stuff - VS, 4b
    The vague line of slightly broken cracks at the right hand side of the sheet of solid rock. Poor. 6m

  5. To The Left - VS, 4b
    Another poor line slightly to the right. 6m

Bolted Overhanging Wall

File:Trebanoh 1.jpg
Click to Expand.
  1. One Upmanship - E1, 5c
    On the left hand side of the wall are some thin cracks. Climb them with more difficulty than might be expected! 6m

  2. March of Progress - Fr. 7a+ *
    The blankest section of rock left of the central hairline crack is gained directly and climbed with a hard crux BR, 2PRs. Using holds in For Your Hands Only reduces the grade. 12m

  3. For Your Hands Only - Fr. 6c *
    The central crack line. Best to pre-clip bolt No.2 on March. 12m

  4. Banog's Barmy Army - Fr. 6c+ *
    Straightened out since the first ascent. Start right of For Your Hands Only. BB. 12m

  5. Grab Some Tree And Follow Me - Fr. 7a
    Start at the line of bolts just to the left of the corner of 'Aunty Pasty'. By avoiding bridging the corner, climb to a break, crux, then pull up to an overlap with a possible rest. Pull left over this, then make a committing stretch for a poor jug. Finish direct to the BB. 12m

  6. Aunty Pasty - HVS, 4c
    The unlovely corner to the right. 12m

  7. Unnamed #1 - E1, 5a
    The wall to the right of the corner, swinging right past a missing PR to finish up Airplay. 12m

Main Area

File:Trebanog main area and overhang.jpg
Click to Expand.
  1. Air Play - VS, 4b *
    The arête to the right and the crack directly above. 12m

  2. Playing Away - HVS, 5a
    The wall immediately to the right and the overhanging headwall above the ledge. Very soft for the given grade. 12m

  3. Bushbaby - HS, 4a
    Start at the left hand side of a hollow in the ground. Climb a line up the to the top. 12m

  4. Skull Orchard - VS,4c
    A vague line somewhere to the right. 12m

  5. Twenty B&H And A Packet Of Rizlas Please - HVS, 5a
    The centre of the buttress to the right. 11m

  6. Simon's Crack - S
    The crack to the right. 12m

  7. S.S.R - D
    The chimney. 11m

  8. Jaffa Buttress - HVS, 5a *
    The centre of the buttress to the right. 9m

  9. Terry's Crack - VS, 5a *
    The overhanging crack to the right. 9m

  10. Heatherette - VS, 5a
    The bounding right hand arête of Terry's Crack provides a couple of almost independent moves. 9m

  11. Howell's Horror - D
    A nondescript line up the corner of the bay to the right, containing the prominent Flat Wall. 9m

  12. Tankard - HVS, 5a
    The crack to the right of the corner. 9m

  13. Blagdon - VS, 4c
    The shallow corner bounding the left hand side of the obvious Flat Wall. 11m

File:Trebanog main flat wall.jpg
Click to Expand.

Flat Wall

  1. Firewater - Fr. 6b
    The left hand side of the wall. Contrived. 11m

  2. Hair Of The Dog - Fr. 7a+ *
    Climb direct up from the sentry box on the Flat Wall. B.B. 11m

  3. Ethanol - Fr. 6b+
    Follow a line of flakes anticlockwise to the shared B.B. 11m

  4. Pete of Lancs - Fr. 6c *
    Direct line between Blagdon and Hair of the Dog.

  5. Unnamed #2 - VS, 4c?
    The cracks to the right. They don't look VS (insert standard guidebook disclaimer). 11m

    To the right of the Flat Wall and as far as the nose (Ledge Climb) where the crag starts to double back towards the Black Chimney Area are a number of short routes:

    File:Trebanog cheezy area.jpg
    Click to Expand.
  6. Barlamb Abuse - D
    The first groove to the right of the Flat Wall. 9m

  7. Shteep - VD
    The cracked arête separating Barlamb Abuse from Gambolling Groove. 11m

  8. Gambolling Groove - M
    The second groove. 11m

  9. Vaughan - S
    The vague blunt arête 6m to the right, starting on the left and traversing across to the right and a tricky finishing move. 11m

  10. Even Cheesier Than Barrow In Furness Bus Depot - VS, 4c *
    To the right of Vaughan, climb the slab and the bulging wall directly above it. 11m

  11. Even Sleazier Than Barrow In Furness Bus Depot - HVS, 5a/b
    The slab to the right, then step right onto the prominent horizontal platform. Stretch up and make fingery moves past a slot to finish. 11m

  12. Ledge Climb - VS
    To the right is the arête bounding the area. Go for it, coming in from the left. 12m

Big Black Chimney Area

  1. Sunday Swing - VS, 4c *
    Climb the wall just right of the arête of L edge Climb to a horizontal break. Traverse right to an enjoyable swing right up to a good crack above the apex of the chimney. Using the start of the next route is a better option with no change in grade. 12m

  2. Out With The Boys - VS, 4c
    Climb the thin crack in the left wall of the chimney just where the soot starts. At the juggy break swing slightly left and finish direct on big greasy holds. 11m

  3. Fire Down Below - E2, 5a
    Bridge up the extremely dirty chimney, until a handrail of loose jugs leads left to the finish of the last route. Apart from being a filthy bag, the chimney doubles as inpromptu poo spot and second hand garden furniture depository. 14m

  4. Kiwis Can't Fly - E1, 5c
    The thin crack in the right hand wall of the chimney finishing up the right hand crack of Sunday Swing. Another poor route. 12m

  5. I Spy Arête - HS, 4a *
    At last a worthwhile route! The arete to the right of the chimney. 11m

    File:Trebanog black chimney area.jpg
    Click to Expand.
  6. I Spy Direct E1, 5b
    The wall to the right. Hidden RPs are available behind the flake above the half height ledge. 9m

  7. High And Dry - E1, 5a
    The crack line just right. 10m

  8. Eastend Groove - HS, 4a
    The crack in the left wall of the bay to the right. 9m

  9. Blood - E1, 5b
    An extremely contrived route up the wall between Eastend Groove and Mick's Little Viper, avoiding gear and holds on either routes. 9m

  10. Mick's Little Viper - HVS, 5a *
    The clean finger crack in the centre of the wall eats gear. 9m

  11. Eastend Crack - HS
    The next slightly vegetated crack to the right. 9m

  12. Desperate Arête - S *
    The arête to the right is very good. 9m

    To the right is another bay:

  13. Decent Route - D
    The cracks in the left wall of the bay. 9m

  14. Hard Death Rain Down - HS, 4b
    The wall and overhang to the right of Decent Route. 9m

  15. Unknown Corner - VD
    The right-hand corner of the wall. 9m

  16. Jo - VS, 4c *
    In the right wall of the bay and the left of the arête is a curving crack which is followed until it is possible to pull out left into a scoop. Continue up the headwall via a protruding block. Good stuff. 9m

  17. Last Arête - HS, 4c *
    Obvious by name, an excellent little climb. 9m

  18. Penultimate - HVS, 4c
    The wall immediately right of the last arête. Bold with fragile


First Ascents

Left Hand End

  1. T.Howell 00.00.1988
  2. T.Howell 00.00.1988
  3. P.Lewis 00.00.1995
  4. Unknown Pre-1990
  5. Unknown Pre-1990

Overhanging Wall

  1. M.Learoyd, C.Nash, G.Lewis 00.00.1998
  2. A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.00.1990
  3. A.Sharp 00.00.1984
  4. A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.00.1990
  5. A.Sharp 00.00.1991
  6. G.Lewis, H.Griffiths 00.00.1990
  7. J.Harwood 17.03.1990

Main Area

  1. G.Lewis, H.Griffiths 00.00.1988
  2. H.Griffiths, SWMC 00.00.1988
  3. Unknown Pre-1990
  4. R.Lawrence, S.Coles 12.07.1992
  5. S.Coles, R.Lawrence 06.12.1991
  6. Unknown Pre-1990
  7. C.Shorrock 24.02.1992
  8. H.Griffiths, G.Lewis, 00.00.1988
  9. T.Howell 00.00.1988
  10. C.Shorrock, T.Darlow 26.11.1994
  11. T.Howell 00.00.1988
  12. C.Shorrock, J.Whitford 24.02.1992
  13. P.Hamer, R.Smith 00.00.1984
  14. A.Sharp, R.Smith 00.00.1984

Flat Wall

  1. A.Sharp 00.00.1983
  2. J.Harwood 26.03.1990
  3. G.Davis 2017
  4. Unknown Pre-1990
  5. Unknown Pre-1990
  6. C.Shorock, J.Whitford 24.02.1992
  7. C.Shorock 02.01.1994
  8. A.Eggleton, C.Shorock 02.01.1994
  9. C.Shorock, M.Chapman 05.11.1994
  10. G.Ashmore 26.04.1998
  11. Unknown Pre-1990

Big Black Chimney Area

  1. G.Lewis 00.00.1988
  2. L.Foulkes, G.Lewis, M.Learoyd 00.00.1988
  3. G.Lewis, T.Howell, H.Griffiths 00.00.1988
  4. L.Foulkes, M.Learoyd, C.Nash 00.00.1988
  5. M.Learoyd, SWMC 00.00.1988
  6. M.Learoyd, SWMC 00.00.1988
  7. J.Harwood, R.high 17.11.1996
  8. H.Griffiths 00.00.1988
  9. T.Darlow 00.00.1988
  10. M.Learoyd 00.00.1988
  11. Unknown Pre-1990
  12. Unknown Pre-1990
  13. Unknown Pre-1990
  14. C.Shorrock, M.Chapman 05.10.1994
  15. Unknown
  16. C.Shorrock, A.Eggleton 02.01.1994
  17. Unknown Pre-1990
  18. G.Williams, J.Harwood 26.09.2002
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