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Inflated Roundhead Area

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Skin Ed Fr.7c. Climber: Dean Howard, Photo: Simon Rawlinson


Dinas Rock


1. Pinheads - Fr. 6b+

Start from the banking at the left-hand side of the wall and climb the thin wall. Possibly a trad grade would be more appropriate. 11 m.


2. Skin ‘Ed - Fr. 7c *

Before the banking rises steeply rightwards is a sheer and fingery wall. Has shed holds recently. 14 m.


3. The Inflated Roundhead - Fr. 7a+ *

Climb flakes to a high first bolt. From this move up to a jug then make a hard and reachy move to holds beneath the roof. Finish to the right of the roof and a lower off shared with Charlie's Rusks. 15 m.


4. Charlie’s Rusks - Fr. 6b+

The wall to the right of The Inflated Roundhead has blind and awkward climbing. 15 m.


5. The Deflated Dickhead - Fr. 6b *

The wall to the left of the obvious three trunked tree. Start on breccia, cut through the diagonal ramp and bear leftwards to reach the ledge. Balance up into a groove on the right and pull through the capping roof. 15 m.


6. Mr Potato Head - Fr. 6a+ *

Start up the centre of the conglomerate and follow staples to a terrace. Enter the triangular recess, then reach over and pull through the centre of the roof, moving rightwards into a groove. Shares a lower off with Pothead up and left. 17 m.


7. Pothead - Fr. 5+

Last of the long routes on this section. Start just right of the three trunked tree. Recently, the start of this route has (somewhat unsuprisingly) fallen down, so step in from the tree. 17 m.

File:Deflated dick head.jpg
Ralph Giles climbing 'The Deflated Dickhead'.


8. The Dented Cavalier - E2, 5b

A bag. Start to the right of Pothead at a waterworn scoop. Climb this, then take a wandering line past overlaps to reach trees at the top. Abseil off. 20 m.


9. The Dumbfounded Dunderhead - Fr. 6b

The short arete at the right-hand side of this section. 9 m.


10. Smeghead - Fr. 4 **

An immediate sports classic at this grade and sure to receive many deserved ascents. To the right of The Dumbfounded Dunderhead arete is a rippled scoop leading to a large vertical flake. 10 m.


11. Bonehead - Fr. 5+ *

Left hand side of the arete formed by 'Smeghead'. Shares a lower off with Tithead. 10 m.


12. Tithead - Fr. 6a

To the right of Bonehead is another scoop. This route climbs the left side of this scoop with an overhang close to the top. 11 m.


Routes: No.8 to 11. (Dunderhead to Tithead)


Videos

<video type="youtube" id="mcDCvaARz4g?hd=1" width="600" position="left" desc="Red point attempt at Skin Ed"/>

First Ascents

1. G.Gibson, R.Thomas 31.01.1998

2. G.Gibson 30.03.1997

3. M.Crocker, R.Thomas 14.04.1988

4. G.Gibson 05.01.1997

5. R.Thomas 00.00.1997

6. A. Rosier 03.05.2010

7. R. Thomas 09.05.2009

8. T.Penning, J.Harwood 05.10.1982

9. R.Thomas 00.00.1997

10. R. Thomas 03.05.2009

11. R. Thomas 09.05.2009

12. D. Emanuelle 09.05.2009

Love Of Ivy Area