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White Goods
Contents
BOLTING POLICY
New bolting is allowed but is seems there is no more room for sensible new lines.
PREAMBLE
A dry tooling venue based in Clwydd, N.Wales. There are a few crags being developed on the same outcrop. White goods (steep section), Kitchen Garden (found 2mins right of white goods. Slabby/vertical) and Power Pact (Steep section closer to the main road, see access).
For more White Goods nonsense visit HERE
For a quality topo visit HERE
ACCESS
The area is situated next to the golf course in Pwllglas on the A494.
Follow the A494 west from Ruthin, once past the Pwllglas sign take the second small road on the right just after the second 40 limit sign. Follow the steep little road up past a crossroad until you come to a bridle path on the right. Parking on the left just below this. 2min walk up the bridle path. As I said the crag is next to the golf course so if abseiling off the top try not to disturb them ... we don't want to upset them. Helmets at all times .. as their not that good a being golfers! The crag is not used for any other climbing as there are large silt layers throughout and has most definitely not been set up for 'posed pictures'. Try it - it's good fun.
Access for White Goods: As above. There are birds nesting in two areas at white goods so please do not climb on Jaz or Tumble in spring to early summer.
Access to the Kitchen Garden: Park as for white goods take the bridle path up the crag and turn Right at the narrow path. Follow this for 2 mins.
Access to Power Pact: Park at white goods (do not park outside the houses closer to the main road) and walk back down the road for 5 mins until houses apear on the right. Just before the drive way of the first house there is a steep muddy bank. take this and the overgrown path for 2 mins. Please be discreet at the area as the home owner is not very welcoming. The land is owned by the council.
DESCENTS
Bolted climbs with lower offs.
THE ROUTES
The routes are described from left to right unless mentioned otherwise in the description.
White Goods
2. Left Over Goods M9 ***
Drytooling D9+ start as for Doorstep, at the roof Traverse Left to good pockets in the roof, Fig 4 your way out to the lip and accend the crack to good holds and easy finish.
Rob (orange J) Apr/2007
3. Doorstep Challenge M8 ***
Drytooling so About D8+ Start just left of the low shelf in the middle of the crag. Follow the bolts up to the roof, travers right to a pocket in the roof, breath and grunt through the roof cliping the tat on the way till a rest on the slab. Easy moves to finish.
Simon Frost 0000
4. Jaz M8 ***
Start to the left of the mass of fallen blocks. Start steeply heading left to a good rest below a large flake, continue up dificult move. take the roof at the narrowest point gaining delicate thin head wall.
Dave Garry 2007
5. Tumble in the Jungle M9 ***
Drytooling so D9? (A guy I know said its harder than Fast and Furious) Start just right of Jaz,move up steeply to the first roof, traverse right and make big delicate move directly above the bolt. Move up to the next roof via the only good hold and again traverse right. Pull through the roof at the narrowest point, follow the flake to top. Sustained.
Dave Garry 18/Nov/2007
6. The Finnish Start M10 **
A direct start to Tumble: Start on the tip of the horizontal flake below roof, go up and right above the overlap. Use pocket in roof to span up and right in to the big crack then traverse back left using tiny pockets to reach Tumble at the bottom of the awesome final layback groove.
Rob 20/Jun/2009
7. Ready Steady Hook M10 *
Climb up the chossy corner past the wobbly block. through the roof via the pick bending slots, travers right and up the groove. Grand trip into the horizontal
Rob (orange J) 29/Mar/2008
Kitchen Garden
9. Adams (they made me) w M5
This is in the New Kitchen Garden area of white goods, found a little way right from the main steep section. Start right of the tree in the wall and follow the crack to the top.
Adam 10/Feb/2008
10. Apple M7 ***
Right of Adam, follow the thin cracks to top
Dave 10/Feb/2008
11. And Pears M7 ***
Harder to start than Apple. right of Apple there is an undercut arete. hop to good hold and work your way up via crack line and brakes above. At half hight move left into Apple.
Dave Garry 0000
Power Pact
13. Mental Block M10 ***
Line to the left of power pact. Harder than Power pact ..not sure how hard though ..ask rob.
Rob (orange J) 29/Nov/2009
14. Power Pact M9 ***
Start in the centre of the crag and pull steeply through the small low roof up onto the delicate slab, then up to a hands free rest at the large flake in the next roof. Power through the next steep section on faith heading left before cutting back right a little.
Rob (orange J) Apr/2008
15. Demolition M7 ***
Start at the far right of the power pact area. Climb 6m to the slight over hang via crack system and pull through on the right. pleasent climbing but still a little loose in places above the bulge.
Ramon Marin 28/Sep/2008
