White Cove

Contents

Gower

Shire Combe To Watch House East

GR SS 545 872

TIDAL STATUS

1½ hours either side of low water

BOLTING POLICY

No bolting.

ACCESS

From Shire Combe and Anemone Wall, a series of rocky platforms run eastward above the high tide level towards the prominent ridge of White Edge. Below the rocky platforms are a series of tidal zawns, which possess a number of good easy routes. Although it may be more efficient to approach these via the descent for White Edge, they are described as approached from Shire Combe, to aid identification on the first visit.

Continuing eastward (right) from Anemone wall for 100m is a prominent inlet, characterised by an undercut pillar at the landward end. (If coming from the White Edge approach, this is the inlet just beyond the second gully to the left of Ravenscliff).

THE ROUTES

The crag provides some of the better easy climbing on Gower. Those planning to protect their routes should carry a good selection of slings for spike runners. On the west (left looking landward) wall is a rock scar, the remains of White Slab D (J.Talbot 1962). Just to the right is a mustard-coloured patch of lichen.

1. Centre 12m D

The centre of the left wall of the zawn, passing the mustard coloured lichen just to its left.

2. Right Wall 12m M The wall 5m left of the pillar, passing the prominent overlap on its left.

3. Abraham’s Route 12m VS,4c From the base of the crag, climb directly up to and through the centre of the overhang. A 1 move wonder

4. Ramp 14m D

Ramble anywhere up the wall left of the pillar to gain a ramp, then follow the vague right-trending groove that bounds the right-hand side of the overlap.

5. Left Pillar Crack 12m S,4c

As for Pillar Direct to start, then step left to climb the obvious wide groove.

6. Pillar Direct 12m S,4c *

May be easier if the level of the beach is higher. The front of the pillar, gained by a superb boulder problem start.

7. Right Pillar Crack 12m M

The right-hand crack, gained by wandering in up easy slabs out right. There is a boulder problem direct start, Jam Today, Jam Tommorrow 4b (G.Ashmore 09.01.1999)

8. Eve 14m D *

The narrow runnel right of the corner gives pleasant climbing. Where the runnel runs out, trend left to finish.

9. Zig Zag 15m M

A slight variant, connecting Wall And Groove to the top of Eve, traversing under the overhang.

10. Wall And Groove 15m M

As for Groove and Corner, until a slab opens out on the left wall. Step left to finish up the centre of the slab. The arete of the slab can be gained from directly below and followed on its left – Jones Route S,4a (J.White 14.04.1982).

11. Groove And Corner 15m M *

The obvious crack and angled groove in the right wall of the inlet.

12. White Slab 15m D *

The centre of the white slab right of Groove And Corner.

1. J.Talbot 00.00.1962

2. J.Talbot 00.00.1962

3. J.White 14.04.1982

4. J.Talbot 00.00.1962

5. J.Talbot 00.00.1962

6. J.Talbot 00.00.1962

7. J.Talbot 00.00.1962

8. J.Talbot 00.00.1962

9. J.Talbot 00.00.1962

10. J.Talbot 00.00.1962

11. J.Talbot 00.00.1962

12. J.Talbot 00.00.1962