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Watch House Slab

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Bending Sickle. Fr-. a. Climbers: Robin Tovey and Mike Peddle. Photo: R McAllister.

Gower

Shire Combe To Watch House East

GR SS 548 873

PREAMBLE

A very smart little crag that is non-tidal and has some excellent routes up to 15m long.

The rock is limestone, smooth and slabby at the base and bulging and rough above half height. There are some interesting features such as sandstone, breccia and calcite veins to give the routes some individual character.

The crag faces south west and so gets the sun by mid morning. However, as the crag lies within a deep gully it does not get the benefit of evening sunshine.

ACCESS

Walk west from the National Trust car park in Southgate. Pass the first headland (above Foxhole Cove) and out onto the second headland.

It is hidden beneath the headland opposite the last house (usually flying a flag) and a steep path directly above the cliff.

But a better approach takes a diagonal track running westwards from the first headland down to a large non-tidal platform. Facing the sea, turn right and walk round into the gully; ten minutes from bus-stop to first bolt.

DESCENTS

Sport routes have shared or individual lower offs with stainless rings. A pre-placed rope should be considered for the trad routes.


THE ROUTES

File:Watch house slabs.jpg
Watch House Slabs

These are described in the traditional manner, from left to right.

  1. Excavation - Fr. 6a
    Enjoyable, start at the obvious sandstone beehive at the extreme LHS and stay left of the (loose) arête. Can be climbed right of bolts at about Fr. 4.

  2. Mr Angry - VS, 4b
    Loose. Start at a leftwards slanting groove, with some sandy rock at its base. Climb the groove for 6m then move rightwards to finish straight up over a tiny overlap.

  3. Tickety-Boo - Fr. 5+
    Nice slabby climbing.

  4. Rise and shine - F. 5 *
    A delightful jaunt, with rapidly increasing exposure. Climb to the second bolt on Tickety-boo then break diagonally right along the obvious line of weakness, all the way to the lower-off at the top of the St Vitus dance slab. The gear should be removed on top-rope.

  5. Fob - E1, 5c
    Start 3m right of Mr Angry. Make awkward moves up a thin crack, then continue directly, taking care with loose undercuts on the overlap.

  6. Sport Wars - Fr. 6a
    Start left of the bolts. Interesting moves lead to pleasant climbing above.

  7. Tread Gently - Fr. 6b+
    A slithery start leads to easier climbing above.

  8. Mainspring - E1, 6a
    Start 3m down the slope from Fob. Mantleshelf with difficulty over the initial bulge and continue directly, PR, to a grassy ledge. Finish diagonally up the final wall. Belay well back or slide off to a sport route chain.

  9. St Vitus’s Dance - Fr. 6c+
    A slab climbers delight climbing straight up to the little arch. Not as blank as it looks. The name alludes to the full-body wobble of the first ascentionist.

  10. The Drilling Fields - Fr. 7a
    Nice moves over the overlap and above to an enjoyable open finish.

  11. Anonymous Bosch - Fr. 6b
    Slabby and then steep.

  12. Jaded Locals - Fr. 6b **
    Romps up the big undercuts before swinging rightwards through the steep section. Nice.

  13. I Bolt, Therefore I Am - Fr. 6c+ *
    Climbs straight up to and through the overhang left of the calcite streak, staying just left of the bolts throughout. The moves through the overhang are very fingery, so good luck in finding the hidden finishing hold!

  14. Escapement - E3, 6a
    A strenuous line just left of a calcite streak PR.

  15. Bending sickle - Fr. 6a **
    A right to left curving diagonal, following the line of pockets under the overhangs to finish up the final slab of St Vitus Dance. Very nice climbing and surprisingly different to the routes it crosses. Start just left of the calcite fault at the right end of the crag, then follow the pockets under the overhang until they run out. Clip the bolt above but keep going left, using side-pulls, to join St Vitus Dance at the arch, then romp up the final slab.

  16. Trad Man - Fr. 6a+
    Spaced bolts and poor rock produce a route to delight the traditionalist. Crosses the calcite vein rightwards using a sandstone wasps nest. Follow the left edge of the wall past sharp breccia holds and finish carefully up a freshly excavated left facing corner.

MAP

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FIRST ASCENTS

  1. J Bullock and D McCarroll 2008
  2. E.Alsford, P.Donnithorne 16.09.1988
  3. J Bullock and D McCarroll 2008
  4. Bethan McCarrroll June 2011
  5. G.Evans, N.Lewis 18.09.1986
  6. D Cook and D McCarroll 2008
  7. J Bullock and D McCarroll 2008
  8. G.Evans, N.Lewis, J.Bullock 23.07.1986
  9. D McCarroll and D Cook 2008
  10. J Bullock and D McCarroll 2008
  11. J.Bullock, L.Moran 09.07.1986
  12. J Bullock and D McCarroll 2008
  13. J Bullock and D McCarroll 2008
  14. J.Bullock, L.Moran 09.07.1986
  15. Danny McCarroll and John Bullock May 2011
  16. J Bullock and D McCarroll 2008

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