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WHITE WITCH CAVE
The first routes start left of the cave on black stratified rock.
1. Pthegthorga Phlem - E2,5a
Bridgend Steve's route up the chossy groove left of the main section of the crag. Loose. 12m
2. PROJECT
3. Abra-Ker-Fucking-Dabra - Fr.5+
4. Sorcerer's Assistant - Fr.6a+
5. Magic Circle - Fr.6a+
6. Smoke and Mirrors - Fr.6A+
And now into the cave proper:
7. Evil Ways - Fr.7a / 7b *
A superbly technical proposition. Start below the left-hand end of the main crag roof. Climb easily to the lip and using a footlock, reach over the roof, crux. Stand up and teeter up the ever so slightly slabby upper wall to a baffling final move. 15m
8. Evil K'nee Full Fr.7a+ ***
Awesome, with a hilarious no hands rest for the short, involving a one leg knee bar at the lip. Start right of 'Evil Ways', below a prominent jugs on the lip of the roof. Climb up to the roof and stretch to the jug. Turn the lip and stand up to a possible no hands head jam rest below the overlap. Move up a faint rib to a tricky crux move up for a sharp edge and finish through the v-groove in the roof. 18m
9. Thin Lizzy - Fr.6c+ *
Protection is hard to arrange. Start below a corner at the right hand end of the roof. Flick a tape over the rock knob before pulling off the ground, crux. Once established, move up the tricky crack to the roof, TRs. Step slightly down and move left to a good jug, then up to gain a v-groove and a PR. Finish with interest, taking care with some of the flakes. 18m
10. White Witch - E5,6b *
Pull over the roof as for Thin Lizzy, then traverse out above the lip, 2 PRs. Step up and continue traversing to finish up Evil Ways. 31m
11. PROJECT
Coming out of 'Thin Lizzy'.
To the Right of Thin Lizzie is an undercut wall of very spikey wave washed rock. This can be climbed even when wet due to the unbelievable friction.
12. Didymo Clogs Your Tackle - Fr.6a+
13. Fishermen Pump Their Rods - Fr.6a+
14. Wrasse Bandit - Fr.6b+
15. Sore Wrasse - Fr.6c
16. Wrassetafarian – Fr.6b *
Much easier than it looks.
FIRST ASCENTS
1. S.James, E.Travers-Jones 00.00.1996
2. PROJECT
3. D. Emanuelle 2009
4. R. Thomas 2009
5. R. Thomas 2009
6. R. Thomas 2009
7. M.Crocker 19.07.1986
8. R.Thomas 02.09.1996
9. R.Thomas, M.Crocker 19.07.1986
10. M.Crocker, R.Thomas 19.07.1986
11. PROJECT
12. R.Thomas, N. O'Neill 2007
13. R.Thomas, M. Hirst 2007
14. R. Thomas, G. Ashmore 2006
15. G. Ashmore, R. Thomas 2006
16. G. Ashmore 13.06.2009
