Tyle y Coch

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Contents

South East Wales Sandstone

Mislivings. Fr.7a. Climber: Oli Burrows
Contents

GR ST 214 957

PREAMBLE

Tyle y Coch Quarry is a north-east facing hole, surrounded by dense beech woodland, which receives sunshine in the morning. It contains some quality sports routes with a wide spread of grades, between Fr.3+ and Fr.7a+.

The Main Wall and subsidiary arete have been rebolted and cleaned and provide a good alternative venue to Sirhowy or the Fr.6c/7a climber. However, the easy sports routes to the right of the main wall will require cleaning and replacement of their first bolts, which were vandalised.

There is seasonal seepage on the Main Wall which takes a good dry spell to clear. Fortunately, once it does dry it remains so, and due to its slightly overhanging nature the best routes are climbable even in the pouring rain.

ACCESS

From J28 of the M4: take the A467 dual carriageway as far as the Halfmoon (Sirhowy/Crosskeys) roundabout. Take the third exit signposted A467 to Newbridge. Follow this road taking the third turning on the left after the mini roundabout at Pontywaun, into the village of Westend (not signposted). Drive through the village passing The Crown pub on the left. Approximately 1/3m after passing all the houses a long lay-by is reached on the left. Park here.

From Ystrad Mynach/Blackwod: Follow A472 to the roundabout (junction) with A467, take first exit to Newbridge. Pass the railway station, under a railway bridge, and bear left. Within 100 yards is a left turn running parallel with the railway track (Ebbw View Terrace). Pass under the A472 viaduct and the layby is obvious on the right before entering West End village.

From the parking area, follow the road toward Westend for about 20m to a telegraph post on the uphill side of the road. Step up the banking and follow a track through beech woodland until you spot an obvious masonry tunnel passing beneath a disused rail line. The quarry is directly opposite you. It should take you less than five minutes to walk from the car.

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THE ROUTES

The routes are described from right to left.
Peachy

Right Hand Area

  1. Lilly Of The Valleys - Fr. 3+
    A slabby line up a groove at the right-hand side of the crag. A Friend 2 protects the one awkward move. 8 m

  2. Jumping Jack Flash - Fr. 4+
    Currently debolted. Climb directly up the short orange wall, passing two bolts to the belay. 7 m

  3. Enema Of The Affair - Fr. 6c+ **
    Climb the arete via several tricky moves. 12 m

  4. High Moon - Fr. 6a+ *
    A good face route 2 m left of the arete, with a memorable rockover at 10 m. 12 m

  5. Suppose A Tree - Fr. 4+
    First bolt is missing. Climb the corner on the left side of the pillar, stepping left on to the wall at 8m. Climb the small overhang to finish. 12 m

  6. Buen Culo - Fr. 4
    First bolt is missing. Start 2m to the left of Suppose A Tree. Climb a short steep wall continuing up the narrow slabby wall above, trending slightly left to the belay. 11 m

  7. Mal Culo - Fr. 4+
    First bolt is missing. Start in a shallow corner 2 m to the left of Buen Culo. Climb the shallow corner, moving over the small overhang on the right. Continue directly above on the short slabby wall and small overhang to finish. 11 m

  8. The Ring - Fr. 3+
    First bolt is missing. Climb the same shallow corner as Mal Culo, but continue straight on to the overhanging prow of rock, turning this on its right. Step left to the belay. 10 m

  9. Bore Hole - Fr. 3+
    First bolt is missing. Again climb the shallow corner of Mal Culo, but move left to follow a line of bore holes to the belay. 10 m

The Main Wall

  1. Cheeky Arete - S
    The short arete is started on the right. At half height, move on to the left side (PR) and finish by scrambling up the narrow ramp, leftwards, towards the (very old) belay. 14 m

  2. The Big Tissue - Fr. 6b
    Start 2 m left of the arete. Mantle over the overhang with difficulty. Easier climbing up the wall leads to a thin finish left to the shared L.O. of Peachy. 14 m

  3. Peachy - Fr. 6c *
    Make a tough move onto a jutting block to gain a shattered bore hole in the slab. Move up with some difficulty and continue to a L.O. just above an overhang (very hard to reach). 14 m

  4. Mislivings - Fr. 7a *
    Start as for Peachy, but at the large borehole, traverse left with feet below the small overhang and hands above. Climb the leftward-trending line from the edge of the overlap to a final roof. A sustained route. 19 m

  5. The Four Minute Tyle - Fr.7b *
    A direct line up the wall to the right of Fairies Wear Boots. A very hard fingery start leads into Mislivings. At the fifth bolt move slightly left then make hard moves back right to the belay. The route may be soft 7a+ if joined from the start of peachy.

  6. Fairies Wear Boots - Fr. 6c+ **
    The crack. Pass the half height overhang on the left and head up to a lower off above the second overhang. 16 m

  7. Paradise Row - Fr. 7a *
    A sustained wall climb, with a hard lower wall. Start by moving leftwards on the slightly slabby wall to reach a good edge. From here sustained and reachy climbing leads to a rest above the second overhang. Finish in a slightly unorthodox position. L.O. 18 m

  8. The Pink Lady - Fr. 6c *
    Start under a Y shaped crack line, in the left side of the wall. Ascend the crack with difficulty to the small roof, where improving holds lead to a L.O. above the second overlap. 12 m

  9. A Cleft Stick - Fr. 7a **
    Shares a start with The Pink Lady but follows the crack where it splits left. There are decent rests above each overhang but the final wall can be strength sapping. 18 m

  10. Belly Up - Fr. 7b *
    Start just right of the corner. Follow a tricky initial crack to gain the overlap. Pull through this rightward to gain a hole and wide break. Swing left and finish up the tricky headwall on marginal undercuts. 20 m

  11. Root Canal - Fr. 6a
    The corner crack. It is difficult to pass the overlap and pull onto the finishing ledge. 14 m

  12. Rump And Scoop - Fr. 6a *
    Ascend the right hand side of the large arete. 12 m

    Fairies Wear Boots Fr. 6c+. F.A.

Black Cat Wall

  1. The Black Circular Cat - E3, 5c **
    Start at the left-hand end of the face, directly below the left end of a narrow ledge at 3 m. Climb to the ledge with difficulty. Walk right along this and ascend a ramp, leading to a corner and overhang. Arrange gear and break out right using a very thin ramp line for feet, eventually gaining a good hold and the top. A direct start is possible via the roof and short crack at E3, 6a. 15 m

  2. The Postman - E2, 5c
    Start as for the above route. Move along the ledge until reaching a thin crack. Use this and continue up right across the face to the corner. Follow this moving left to the top. Large Friends are handy. 14 m

  3. Pecker Patrol - E1, 5b
    Start 1 m left of the Postman. Climb the left hand edge of the wall to a PR. Pass this and move up and right to the large ledge. 12 m

  4. Y Caled Caled - Fr. 7c
    The steep sidewall just right of the overhanging crack.

FIRST ASCENTS

Right Hand Area

  1. S.Abbott, J.James, W.Gladwin, D.Jones 04.02.2001
  2. S.Abbott, J.James, W.Gladwin 14.05.2000
  3. J.James, W.Gladwin 14.05.2000
  4. J.James, W.Gladwin 00.12.1999
  5. W.Gladwin, J.James 08.07.2000
  6. W.Gladwin, S.Abbott, J.James 13.05.2000
  7. W.Gladwin, J.James, J.Keyhole 07.05.2000
  8. W.Gladwin, J.James 16.07.2000
  9. W.Gladwin, J.James 16.07.2000

The Main Wall

  1. S.Abbott, J.James, W.Gladwin 14.05.2000
  2. J.James, W.Gladwin, D.Jones 13.05.2001
  3. J.James, W.Gladwin 14.07.2000
  4. J.James, W.Gladwin 22.06.2001
  5. G.Percival 17.09.2014
  6. A.Rosier, W.Gregory, R.McAllister 16.08.2013
  7. G.Gibson, R.Thomas 23.09.2001
  8. G.Jenkin, W.Gladwyn, G.Gibson 16.09.2001
  9. G.Gibson 23.09.2001
  10. G.Gibson, A.Jenkin, J.James, W.Gladwyn 16.09.2001
  11. J.James, T.Williams 23.07.2000
  12. J.James, S.Abbott, W.Gladwin 08.10.2000

Black Cat Wall

  1. J.James, S.Abbott, W.Gladwin 04.03.2001
    Direct: J. James, P. Bowen 00.03.2001
  2. J.James, J.Steer 20.05.2001
  3. J.James, S.Thompson, D.Williams, W.Gladwyn 16.09.2001
  4. Matt Wright Sept 2016