Twinkle Buttress

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ACCESS

See the Ogmore Crag Familiarisation Page.

The Routes

The small prominent buttress standing out from the general line of the cliff. Some of the shortest and easiest routes are here. A good place to escape with abseil point in place if you don't want to climb down Route 1.

1. Pillock 15m VS,4c
   The overhanging chimney and shallow groove just left of Twinkle.
   
   
2. Twinkle 12m D
   Takes the easiest line on the left edge of the buttress.
   
   
3. Route 1 12m D
   The obvious corner to the right of the buttress.
   
   
4. Canute Left Hand 12m HVS,5b
   Take the middle of the face between Route 1 and Canute directly, to finish just left of Canute.
   
   
5. Canute 12m VD
   To the right of Route 1 is a wall with a shallow corner on its right. Climb the crack on the right and move round left onto the wall. Follow a shallow groove up to the left.
   
   
6. Canute Right Hand 12m HVS,5a
   Climb Canute to step right under a bulge to the foot of a shallow corner. Finish up this.
   
   The next feature is the obvious corner and roof of Leprechaun.
   
   
7. Leprechaun 18m E2,5c *
   A claasic piece of awkward climbing. Start 9m right of Route 1 at an obvious corner capped by a large overhang. Gain the overhang then move right to a bottomless corner. Go up to a flake crack then move left across blocks to the top.
   
   

The line of Oedipus Variation E3,6b (M.Learoyd, G.Royle 1984) has fallen down.

First Ascents

1. P.Thomas 00.00.1972
2. J.Mothersele 00.00.1972
3. J.Mothersele 00.00.1972
4. J.Harwood, M.Ismail 20.09.1998
5. C.Horsfield 00.00.1972
6. P.Thomas 00.00.1972
7. J.Kerry 1pt 00.00.1973
   FFA P.Littlejohn, J.Harwood, J.Mothersele 22.06.1977