Tusker Chimney Area

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ACCESS

See the Ogmore Crag Familiarisation Page.

The next routes are round the right arete of Elephant Wall, in a recessed bay. The Wet Look Cave high up on the left proves the most troublesome part of the Exposure Explosion traverse due to its damp and dark position.

File:Ogmore10.jpg

Nigel Lewis on Flash Harry HS

The Routes

The next routes are round the right arete of Elephant Wall, in a recessed bay.

1. Mind Probe 33m E2,5b *
   Strenuous and bold at the start. Climb the chimney 8m right of Elephant Wall and just left of an arete for 5m. Move left to a diagonal crack in the arete. Climb the crack then traverse left into a groove on the front of Elephant Wall and continue to the horizontal break. Finish up the groove in the arete.
   
   
2. Wet Probe 33m E3,5c *
   As for Mind Probe, but continue straight up from the diagonal crack.
   
   
3. Wet Look 33m HVS,4c,4c *
   This gains the wet cave high up on the crag.
   1. 15m Climb the bulging wall below the left side of the cave to gain the cave.
   2. 18m Traverse left on small holds to reach good horizontal cracks, used to gain and climb a chimney.
      
      2m right is a square-cut chimney taken by Tusker Chimney and a prominent black prow taken by Domestic Bliss.
      
      
4. Tusker Chimney 33m HVS,5a,5b **
   A route of character, with two contrasting pitches. Start below the square-cut chimney in the right part of the bay.
   1. 22m Climb the leftward-slanting crack and square-cut chimney to a roof. Step left onto a small slab and traverse right under the roof, then move up to a belay ledge.
   2. 11m Climb easily up and right, then take a steep wall to a crescent shaped overhang. Make a hard traverse right, then finish up a groove.
      
      
5. Flyover 36m E3,5c,5b **
   Fine positions on the exposed top pitch. Start 2m right of Tusker Chimney.
   1. 18m Climb a capped groove until a traverse left can be made, passing the remains of a PR, to a good hold. Take the edge above then move right to belay as for Tusker Chimney.
   2. 18m Pull up the wall to reach a leftwards traverse above the lip of the cave and beneath a small roof. Follow this to a crack splitting the roof, leading to a ledge and easier ground.
      
      
6. Domestic Bliss 30m E1,5b,5a
   
   1. 18m Up the groove as for Flyover, but swing right onto a prow. Climb up a rib to the Tusker Chimney belay.
   2. 12m Climb the steep wall left of Tusker Chimney. Trend back right after overcoming the bulge.
      
      
7. Domestic Responsibility 30m E2,5a,5c *
   
   1. 18m Start on the right side of the black prow right of Flyover. Step onto a crinkly wall and move up left to good holds on an arete. Pull round left at a horizontal crack and move up to belay as for Tusker Chimney.
   2. 12m Move up and right below the finish of Tusker Chimney. Make a long reach for a hidden jug and finish steeply up the wall above.
      
      
8. Tusker Right Hand 33m MVS,5b
   Climb the chimney and crack 6m right of Tusker Chimney to the horizontal break, then climb directly up the wall 1m left of an obvious crack (Flash Harry).
   
   
9. Flash Harry 24m HS,4a **
   The best route of its grade at Ogmore, taking a proud buttress 13m right of Tusker Chimney. Climb via a groove to an obvious crack 1½m right of Tusker Right Hand, thence to the top.
   
   
10. Yorkshire Pud 24m S
    A slight variant on Tim's Route. Follow the easiest line up the cracked arete right of Flash Harry.
    
    
11. Tim's Route 24m VD
    Start just left of the obvious corner on the right side of the bay and follow the easiest line up the right-hand side of the grooved arete.
    
    
12. Mordred 24m HVS,4c
    The obvious corner right of Tim's Route and 9m right of Flash Harry on the left side of a seaward-facing buttress.
    
    

First Ascents

1. A.Sharp, P.Thomas 00.00.1972
2. B.Brewer, A.McCarthy 08.07.1999
3. P.Thomas, C.Horsfield 00.00.1971
4. C.Horsfield, P.Thomas 00.00.1972
5. R.Thomas, G.Royle 00.05.1986
6. M.Learoyd, R.Thomas, G.Royle 00.00.1984
7. G.Lewis, C.Hurley 00.00.1983
8. C.Horsfield 00.00.1972
9. P.Thomas 00.00.1972
10. M.Rhodes, J.Harwood 20.01.1980
11. J.Mothersele 00.00.1972
12. B.Davies 00.00.1972