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Thurba Head
Contents
TIDAL STATUS
BOLTING POLICY
No bolting. The old bolts on Thurba West and the BB above Thurba Head to remain.
PREAMBLE
Thurba Head itself contains some fine lines, which to the east of Right Crack (not inclusive) are generally on good rock. Although the south-facing front face is the most spectacular, it is a pain to get to. However, the routes to the east of Cool Britannia (inclusive) are very good and not as difficult to approach as you may have been led to believe. Thurba West contains a couple of reasonable routes, especially Museum Piece. There are a couple of recent minor routes in the rocks 150m east of Thurba Head itself, now called Thurba East
ACCESS
From the main Rhossili road, turn left in Pitton (south) to Pitton Farm (GR427877), where car parking is available (honesty box). Strike left from the entrance to the car park. Walk a short distance down a farm track, then bear right past farm buildings to gain the path leading through a narrow valley.
After about 5 minutes, where the sea starts to become visible, turn left (east) up the hill through an NT marked stile. A path wends gently up onto higher ground. For Thurba West, contour round towards the sea about 50m below the top of the hill to reach this small outcrop overlooking Mewslade Bay.
For the main crag, continue to the top and walk out towards the headland until a path cuts down and left (east). Follow this for 100m, then strike out to sea, to reach a non-tidal platform below the shoulder of the head and at the east side of the area. The routes on the Front Face are normally approached by abseiling down from the non-tidal platform, leading to a highly tidal platform on the front face. This is only really practical on big tides. The routes on the east side are accessed by either abseil, or more commonly by traversing in from the platform above the high tide level. For Thurba East continue along the coastal path.
DESCENTS
For Thurba West, turn left at the top to reach the path. For Thurba Head front face, walk up to the top of the hill and contour back round to the non-tidal platform. For the main area, descent is by easy scramble down and right to the non-tidal platform.
THE ROUTES
Thurba West
GR SS 422 871
On the east side of Mewslade Bay, about 50m above the beach are some short buttresses. The cebtral one of these, with a prominent upper half is Thurba West
1. Chimney Climb 9m D
Climb the chimney situated at the left-hand end of the crag.
J.Talbot, D.Thomas 00.00.1959
2. Right Edge 9m VD
Climb Chimney Climb to half-height, then move out right and climb the blunt arete.
J.Talbot, D.Thomas 00.00.1959
3. Cracked Wall 9m VD
The blunt arete is gained directly.
J.Talbot, D.Thomas 00.00.1959
4. South Corner 12m S
From 3m up Cracked Wall, traverse up and right to gain and finish up a corner.
J.Talbot, D.Thomas 00.00.1959
5. Museum Piece 10m E4,6b *
A tough little number with lots of old, but relatively good gear, free climbing the obvious line of BRs and PRs in the centre of the crag. Very blind and quite powerful.
J.Talbot 00.00.1966 - South Wall
FFA A.Berry 00.00.1994
G.Ashmore ALCH 05.10.1997
6. Nogolo 13m E3,6a
Through the roof about 7m right of Museum Piece.
M.Crocker 07.11.1998
7. Amuseland 10m E1,5b *
The prominent right-facing layback crack 5m to the right of Nogolo.
M.Crocker 07.11.1998
8. Moneyeater 10m E3,6a
The wall and slots immediately right of Amuseland.
M.Crocker 07.11.1998
9. Solo 10m E1,5b *
About 12m right of where the overhang finally peters out, a groove and corner form the left end of a 10m wide wall. Climb this groove and corner.
J.Talbot 00.00.1972
10. Moneyspinner 10m HVS,5b
The wall to the right of Solo.
M.Crocker 07.11.1998
11. Progression 9m VS,4b
The ivy-covered crack to the right of Solo.
J.Talbot 00.00.1972
Front Face
The most obvious feature of the cliff is the steep pillar overlooking the sloping platform, bounded on the left by a gully and chimney topped by large overhangs. On the right of the pillar is a large corner with a chimney at its foot. Off to the left (west) are a number of highly overgrown gullies and ridges. The real routes start at Central Cleft. However, the first couple of routes are mentioned for historical interest and have not been checked for this guide. They are located to the west (left) of Central Cleft.
1. Toad 45m S
The first arete and groove on the left (west) side of the front face.
C.J.Lawrence, J.Brown 00.00.1968
2. Pristine 45m S
The gully between Toad and The Needle.
J.Talbot 00.00.1970
Thurba Head
3. Fountain 45m S Climbs the wall right of Pristine.
J.Talbot 00.00.1970
4. The Needle 45m M
Climb up to and past a needle on the main face.
J.Talbot 00.00.1970
5. Gully Climb 45m D
The first major gully to the right of The Needle.
J.Talbot 00.00.1970
6. The Bastion 45m VD
The next arete to the east (right).
J.Talbot 00.00.1970
There is also a nonsensical east to west rising traverse - Traverse Of The Gods (J.Talbot, 1970).
7. Central Cleft 42m S
A disgusting route after the nesting season, but a useful escape. Start below the gully and chimney left of the main pillar. Climb the chimney and groove bearing leftwards below overhangs to easy rocks, then climb the obvious deep groove above and left.
M.Hogge, E.Pardoe 00.00.1969
8. Right Crack 48m E2,5b,- *
Perversely, this route takes the thin crack and groove in the left side of the central pillar. The first 25m are good, the rest is a bag. Start just right of the gully below a thin barnacled crack.
- 1. 39m Climb the crack and groove, then overcome an overhang directly. Continue to a bulge and tiny overlap of brown rock. Follow a diagonal line rightwards across the top of the pillar.
- 2. 9m Easy climbing remains to the top.
E.Pardoe, M.Hogge 00.00.1969
FFA P.Littlejohn, J.Harwood 03.10.1980
9. The Thurba Pillar 45m E5,6b,4a ***
A superb pitch up the square-cut pillar between Right Crack and Earthly Powers. Start as for Right Crack.
- 36m Climb steeply up the left arete of Earthly Powers. At 6m pull round left to the base of a crack on the face. At its end swing up left to a shallow niche below the slim section of the pillar. Climb the pillar using the right arete until better holds are gained slightly left. Continue up the leaning wall via a line of hairline cracks and a short angular groove to a belay.
- 9m Climb the arete easily to the top.
M.Crocker 07.09.1985
10. Earthly Powers 45m E5,5b,6a ***
Another superb route on good rock, attempting to climb the striking black groove line on the main pillar. Start beneath the groove an hour either side of low water.
- 15m Climb steeply on good holds to a small stance beneath the black groove.
- 30m Climb rightwards to the arete and move up to the band of overhangs. Traverse left beneath the overhang until above the blank section of the groove. Climb straight up steep ground to reach the broken crest of the buttress. Finish easily up this to block belays.
T.Penning - P1 06.07.1982 P.Littlejohn, T.Penning - P2 14.06.1983
11. Unearthly Power 35m E5,5b,6c **
- 15m As for Earthly Powers P1.
- 20m Desperate bridging up the corner which Earthly Powers avoids to the right. Small wires are very useful. From the top of the corner, move right to finish up a short steep white headwall.
M.Crocker, J.Harwood 07.02.1999
East Section
The following routes are to the east of the main pillar of the crag and reached by traversing in from the tidal platform mentioned in the access section.
12. Cool Britannia 45m E6,6b **
Takes the top half of the the spectacular arete to the right of Earthly Powers. From a belay in the chimney of Barnacle Bill, traverse out left and step up to place a large wire in the flake of Thin Ice. Step down and gain the arete, PR. Desperate moves up the arete past a crucial Rock 5 lead to a poor TR and PR, then an overlap. Pull over this strenuously to better holds and easy ground.
M.Crocker, J.Harwood 15.11.1998
13. Thin Ice 24m E4,6a **
From the belay in chimney of Barnacle Bill, traverse left and climb the cracks in the wall right of Cool Britannia.
M.Crocker, G.Jenkin 07.09.1985
14. Barnacle Bill 24m E1,5b **
A good climb taking the big corner right of the central pillar. Traverse in from the platform on the east to gain a large chimney (not visible from the start). A belay is wise. Climb the awkward chimney and the good crack up the subsequent groove.
R.Griffiths, P.Parker 1pt 09.05.1971
FFA J.Bullock, C.Lownds 28.07.1982
15. Summer Wine 24m E3,6a **
A strenuous, well-protected pitch right at the top of the grade. Start beneath the thin groove right of Barnacle Bill at dead low water, or traverse in from the right (east). Climb to the overhang, move leftwards around this and follow the thin crack to a desperate move onto a sloping ledge. Finish more easily.
P.Littlejohn, T.Penning 14.06.1983
16. The Thief That Never Was 24m E3,6a
The arete between Summer Wine and Junior Jaws.
M.Crocker 01.11.1998
5m right of Barnacle Bill is a shallow corner easily visible from the non-tidal platform on the east.
17. Junior Jaws 21m E1,5b *
Start at high-tide level, below and slightly right of the upper section of the shallow corner. Climb up to the foot of the groove and pull in from the right. Climb the corner directly.
T.Penning, D.Hope 05.09.1982
18. Laughing Gear 18m E1,5a
The smaller groove right of Junior Jaws. Not well protected.
T.Penning, J.Harwood 12.09.1982
19. W i m p 18m S
Start below the open groove in the upper right part of the cliff, just left of a deep chimney crack which bounds the cliff on the right. Climb to the steep broken groove and the top.
G.Richardson, M.Danford 00.00.1982
20. Delegation 18m HVS,5a
The cracks and the mini groove right of Wimp, gained from the start of Wimp.
M.Richards, J.Harwood 28.08.1999
Thurba East
21. Depression 32m S
About 150m east of the bay immediately east of Thurba Head is an easy angled crag above the path. Climb the left-hand rib of the crag on loose rock.
J.Harwood, E.Smith 08.05.1999
22. Knight Games 10m S
Some distance on from Depression is a short crag above a short grey wall facing due south. Climb the centre of the wall, traversing off right to finish.
J.Harwood, E.Smith, M.Leask, M.Ismail 28.03.1999
23. An Oxford Connection 12m VD
In the valley to the east of Knight Games with wooden fence in it is an east facing crag. Climb directly up about 3m right of the left-hand arete.
J.Harwood, M.Leask, E.Smith, M.Ismail 28.03.1999
