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The Winter Circuit

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South East Wales Sandstone



TREHAFOD

This recently cleaned and re-bolted roadside crag catches all the winter sun and forms the first part of the winter sport circuit. Coed Ely and Trebanog are the other sunny winter venues.


The routes are described from left to right.

Routes No. 1 to 4


1. Beauty School Drop-out 7a*

Wrongly described as Chris Evans baked bean super hero in the guide. The wall right of the off width is crimpy, intense and climbed direct; using the crack reduces the grade to 6c.

A Sharp P Lewis 00/02/92


2. Earl of Porth 6a+*

The wall right of B.S.D, already popular B.B

A Sharp P Lewis 00/12/08


3. Guto Nythbran 6b

Wall and overlap right of EOP one crimpy move B.B

A Sharp P Lewis 00/01/09


Rave Crave Area

Routes No. 4 to 6


4. Elf & Safety 6c *

Pull through the left side of the large overhang via a crack B.B

A. Sharp P.Lewis 27/12/08


5. Rave Crave/Rhubarb 7a+*

Dyno through the roof and continue direct with difficulty

Chris Evans Andy Sharp 00/00/92


6. Meg(A) Skater girl from Gelli 6a

Grove and overlap starting at the right end of the overhang.

A Sharp P Lewis 27/12/08


Gorki’s Wall


7. Missing link 6b+

The first bolted line via two pockets

Chris Evans 00/00/92


8. Demi Moore 7a *

Next bolted line good moves via a pocket

A Sharp P Lewis 00/00/92


Routes No. 7 to 10

9. Gorki’s 6c+**

The original and best route up the centre of the wall

Chris Evans 00/00/92


10. Just another one move wonder 6b+

The final bolted line – Don’t use the crack!

A Sharp 00/00/92


11. Cenotaph norm carter 6b*

Start from the Andy Capp graffiti and finish as for discount BB (soon to be rebolted)


12. Discount included in the price 6a+**

The longest route on the crag with a new direct finish. Very worthwhile.

Chris Evans 1992 New Finish A. Sharp P Lewis 00/12/08


13. Baldy walks to Ponty 6a+

A direct version up the wall right of Discount.

Chris Evans 00/00/92 Straightened Andy Sharp Pete Lewis 00/12/08


14. Rhondda leader 6a

The last line on the wall

A Sharp P Lewis 00/01/09


15. Michelle Pfeiffer 6c *

The thin crack in the overhang wall is short and sweet

A Sharp P Lewis 00/00/92


16. Saga Louts 6a+

The wall 5 metres right of M.P is climbed direct

A Sharp P Lewis 00/01/09


17. Sir Kitt V3

Good 10 metre traverse. Start from Meg (A). Traverse the obvious line with a long finishing move. Reverse and dyno through the rave crave overhang to get a nice V5

A Sharp 00/12/08

COED ELY

Recently re-bolted. Stage 2 of the winter sport circuit.


Routes are described from left to right


5. Scandal (in the bin) 6c *

Now climbed direct to B.B

A Sharp J Harwood 1989 Direct finish A Sharp P Lewis Oct 2008


8. Tall dark and handsome 6c+/7a *

Described wrongly in the old guide. The route is climbed direct past 5 bolts to B.B

A Sharp 00/00/89


10. Campaign for see through bikinis 6a+***

One of the best at the grade on sandstone, the groove and crack passing 5 bolts to B.B

Gary Lewis 04/03/89


11. Young free and single 7a *

The next bolted line with a crimpy start and Pumpy finish.

A Sharp 00/00/89


12. The Uninvited 6c+ **

The central line. Great climbing

A Sharp 00/00/89


13. Behind the lines 6c *

Last line on the wall, with hard finishing move.

A.Sharp, J.Harwood 21/02/89

N.B. Combine the finish of the Uninvited with the start of Behind the lines gives a nice steep 6a+


TREBANOG

Gets the sun until 4.15pm (winter). The last stage of the winter sport circuit. The routes are described from left to right and have all been recently re-bolted.


Banog Army Wall


7. March of progress 7b *

The left and line has a crimpy start and finish 5 bolts to shared B.B

A Sharp 00/00/89


8. For your arms only 6c**

A great route – drilled and soon to be bolted

A Sharp 00/00/89


9. Banog Barmy Army - direct 7a *

Central bolt line, sustained and crimpy

A Sharp 00/00/90


10. Grab some tree (and follow me) 7a *

Campus the start and finish through the overhang B.B

A Sharp 00/00/90


Flat Wall


26. Firewater 6a+*

The left hand line of bolts to B.B

A Sharp P Lewis 00/00/89


27. Hair of the dog 7a+*

The central line is sustained and crimpy

A Sharp P Lewis 00/00/89


28. Blagdon 6c+*

Right hand line, traverse left to finish or go direct at 6c wrongly described as Ethanol in the guide

A Sharp P Lewis 00/00/89



Good Combinations

Discount included in the price 6a+

Earl of Porth 6a+

Campaign for see through bikinis 6a+

Firewater 6a+


Michelle Pfeiffer 6c

Elf & Safety 6c

Scandal 6c

Behind the lines 6c

For your arms only 6c


Gorki’s 6c+

Tall dark and handsome 6c+

Blagdon 6c+


Demi Moore 7a

Beauty school drop out 7a

Banog direct 7a

Young free and single 7a


Rave crave/rhubarb 7a+

Hair of the dog 7a+


March of progress slightly harder