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The Pulpit
From SWMC Wiki
GR SS
Contents
TIDAL STATUS
BOLTING POLICY
No bolting.
PREAMBLE
Right (east) of Cathedral Gully is a protruding buttress, split left of centre by an easy descent chimney. Some 10m to the right is a more prominent chimney (Pulpit Fissure). There are two very easy scrambles, Magog (J.Talbot 1963) and Chink (J.Talbot 1963) which take indistinct lines up the south face of the buttress, but the only independent route is Gog.
ACCESS
DESCENTS
THE ROUTES
- Gog 12m M
The seaward face of the buttress. - Cleft 12m M
The cleft and groove right of the south face of the buttress. - Indefinite 10m D
The left side-wall of the prominent chimney of Pulpit Fissure. - Pulpit Fissure 10m D
The obvious chimney. - Schusselkar 15m VS,4c
Start up Pulpit Fissure, but move right as soon as possible to gain and finish up the wall to the right.
To the right is another recessed inlet. - Yus Yus 15m E2,5b *
The arete left of smooth. - Smoove 15m VS,4c
This climbs the smooth overhanging groove in the seaward end of the left wall of the recess. Climb the groove and pull out right on good holds to a ledge below another groove capped by an overhang. Take this and exit left. - Gold Kappel 18m VS,4c
As for Smoove, then move right over a smooth bulge to a ledge. Climb the right edge of the groove to the top. - Canalog 15m VS,4c
Climb the steep wall left of the prominent black hole right of Smoove. - The Beak 18m VD
Gain the black hole and traverse leftwards on tachyons to a ledge below the upper groove of Smoove, now climb the steep wall on the left. - Checkmate 13m VS,4b
As for The Beak to the hole, then climb the corner above. - Font 13m VS,4b
As for Checkmate to the upper corner, then move right and climb the narrow pillar.
There are two old routes Headstone (J.Talbot 1963) and Chalice (J.Talbot 1963) which cover similar ground to the routes described above.
FIRST ASCENTS
- J.Talbot 00.00.1963
- J.Talbot 00.00.1963
- J.Talbot 00.00.1963
- R.Corbett, J.Talbot 00.00.1962
- J.Talbot, R.Corbett 00.00.1962
- Nick Taylor 02.08.1997
- R.Corbett, J.Talbot 00.00.1962
- J.Talbot, R.Corbett 00.00.1962
- R.Corbett, P.Perkins 00.00.1962
- J.Talbot, D.Jones 00.00.1961
- J.Talbot 00.00.1963
- J.Talbot 00.00.1963