TestCrag

TestCrag
Name	Midgy Hollow
Rock Type	Limestone "Limestone" is not in the list (Quarried Limestone, Quarried Jurassic Limestone, Quarried Triassic Limestone, Quarried Sandstone, Quarried Gritstone, Quarried Granite, Quarried Schist, Quarried Slate, Natural Limestone, Natural Jurassic Limestone, Natural Triassic Limestone, Natural Sandstone, Natural Gritstone, Natural Granite, Natural Schist, Natural Slate) of allowed values for the "RockType" property.
Parent Crag	Muddy Quarry
Climbing Type	Traditional
Located	Gower
Lat/Long
Approach Time (mins)	1.5
Faces	North East
Seepage	Yes
Suitable Weather	Dry Weather
Midges	Yes
Tidal	Yes
Climbing Possible	5.0
Access Notes
Access	Restricted
Start Bird Ban	2013/04/02
Bird Ban End	2013/11/02
Bird Ban Notes	There is a big, nasty and aggressive bird in this quarry.
Restriction Notes	Psychotic farmer with shotgun
Crag List

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West Tor

Gower

The Three Tors

GR SS 52469 87829

Tidal Status

The routes from Fartlek to End Crack are accessible 4 hours either side of low water. The rest of the crag is non-tidal.

Descents

Descents from Fartlek to End Crack and Main Slab are down obvious paths. Descent from the Great Slab is by walking off right (east) at the top and descending the vague path to the east of the slab. Lying 100m west of Little Tor, West Tor is comprised of three tiers of cliffs. The lowest is the Seal Level Slab. Directly above this lies the Main Slab, whilst up and right again, is the inappropriately named Great Slab. The Main Slab is best accessed from the beach (unless the tide is in), the Great Slab is best reached from the top by walking down its east flank as described in the access notes.

Preamble

Lying 100m west of Little Tor

Sea Level Slab

Lies down at beach level, slightly west of the main slab. It is marginally tidal.

1. Fartlek 7m E1,5c

The diminutive route lies on a subsidiary buttress 10 m of Left Crack. It takes a thin crack up the centre.

P.Lewis, A.Sharp 00.00.1985

2. Central Crack - 7m VD

The obvious wide crack is quite stern for the grade.

Unknown Pre-1973

3. Right Crack - 7m VD

Some 2 metres right of Central Crack are some drill holes at eye level, with a crack above. Climb up on the left

side of this.

Unknown Pre-1973

4. Guy Fawking of the Legs 8m E1 5a

Climbs the left side of the compact central section of slab, right of Right Crack. Direct at first, then trending leftwards at about 2/3rds height. Un-protected.

F.A. Nick Taylor, solo 26.5.09

To the right is a descent route, then an inset slab, at the left end of which is an arete.

5. Accident At The Knave - 9m E1,5b

Take the left side of the prominent arete diagonally down and right of the main slab and finish on its edge.

M.Crocker 13.03.1999

6. End Crack - 8m VD

The obvious right-slanting crack at the right end of the slab.

Unknown Pre-1973

7. Burning Backsides HVS

Start at rocks on the right side of the main sea level slab. Move up and leftwards to a vague traverse line about 5m up and cross the atrete and corner dropping a meter or so. Proceed leftwards across the rest of the slab

Probably done before - C Wyatt, Charles Mason - May 2009

Main Slab

Directly above the beach level slab is this compact face.

File:Alex curving crack.jpg

Alex on Curving Crack

7. Left Corner - 11m VD

An indefinite route. Climb the left edge of the slab until it steepens. Move left into and up a short corner to the top.

J.Talbot, G.Jones 00.00.1959

8. Curving Crack - 11m VS,4c *

Obvious from its name, this splendid climb is straightforward with a little thought.

J.Talbot, D.Corbett 00.00.1958

9. Smooth Operator - 11m E3,6a

A thin eliminate between Curving Crack and Innocent Savagery.

A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.00.1985

10. Innocent Savagery 11m - E1,5b

A tricky direct start attains the bunch of cracks right of Curving Crack.

J.Kerry - Central Route 00.00.1971

P.Lewis, A.Sharp 00.00.1985

11. Diagonal (Popsi's Joy) - 11m VS,4c

Climb the thin crack on the right side of the slab.

J.Kerry 00.00.1971

12. Traverse - 12m VD

Follows the footledge left across the slab.

J.Talbot, G.Jones 00.00.1959

Up and right through a great deal of scrub lies the Great Slab. The front face is vegetated.

Great Slab

13. Uno - 18m M

On the left (west) side of the slab is a short wall containing thin cracks, with a short chimney to the right. Gain the short chimney, then move left to a ledge. Finish up the ridge above. A poor route.

J.Talbot 00.00.1970

14. Due - 21m VD

Overgrown. Right of Uno is a wall with two cracks leading to an obvious rib. Follow these to finish direct.

J.Talbot 00.00.1970

15. Tre 21m HS

The start is overgrown. Start 2m right of Due, below an overhanging flake. Move right round this to a ledge and follow an edge to the top of the rib on Due. Traverse right to a corner crack with a small overhang to finish.

J.Talbot 00.00.1970

16. Nemesis - 21m S

The start is overgrown. 12m right of Tre is a steep wall lined with cracks leading to a square ledge. A rib above leads to another ledge. Climb the wall above, which is bounded on the right by a smooth yellow pillar. Trend left to finish.

J.Talbot 00.00.1970

17. Right Rib - 27m D

Climb the right edge of the main face of the Great Slab, loose in its upper section.

R.Bradley 00.00.1998

The remaining routes lie to the right (east) of the main face, centred about a slab containing an inverted y-crack.

18. West Diedre - 9m S

A poor route up the corner left of Notched Rib. Scrambling leads to the top.

J.Talbot, G.Jones 00.00.1959

19. Notched Rib - 15m S *

A hidden gem. Takes the rib on the left of the slab.

J.Talbot, D.homas 00.00.1959

20. Electrico 11m - E3,6b

A desperately technical little number taking the thin cracks in the centre of the slab. At this grade it is necessary to place wires in the thin crack from the corner on the left before starting, otherwise the route is much more serious (E5), with no gear until after the first crux.

J.Talbot, G.Jones - Direct A1 00.00.1959
FFA A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.00.1985

21. Right Edge (Cooking The Books) - 11m E1,5a

The right arete of the slab, starting either direct up the arete, or from the pedestal of Central Route, via the solution pocket. Originally utilised peg protection.

J.Talbot, G.Jones 00.00.1959