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Temple Bay Inlets

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Topo
Roy Thomas on Matt of the Iron Gland, Temple Bay Inlets. Photo by Carl Ryan

Sea Walls and Temple Bay Inlets

PREAMBLE

A pleasant area of small inlets east of the sea walls of witches point. Revisited and regeared recently. Sunny outlook and solid rock make this a must.

Approach by walking over witches head land(or if lucky with the tides across the beach) to the fisherman's ledges and scrambling down east before the neighbouring temple bay is reached. An abseil from the "wrasse" belay can often save the walk over the headland on the way back.

BOLTING POLICY

Bolting permissible, rebolting with FA permission.

ROUTES

SEA WALLS

Immediately below the fishermans ledges on the very tip of witches are a number of walls and overhangs offering short sharp routes. Many of the routes were done decades ago and have remained unreported or unrecorded until now.Some of the old pegs and situ gear have been replaced. A fun place to be in the sun.

Sea Walls (Left) Topo


  1. Betty Swallocks
    Bulging arete on left of platform.6m

  2. It's just bollocks - E2, 6b
    The overhang, gaining and using the black chert hold.6m

  3. Paternoster - E3, 5c
    The roof,situ threads.10m

  4. Fisherman's friend-E2, 5b
    The roof and final crack.10m

  5. Royle Headache - E3, 6b
    Gaining the gaping corner proves problematic,watch your head and a mat would be handy.10m

  6. Jilters Wall - E2, 5c
    The narrow white wall,PR.10m

  7. Professor's Crack - VS, 4b
    The crozzly ramp and crack.10m

  8. Leg Over - E4, 6a
    Crozzly chert pulling.Swing left from the platform (TR) and surmount the final roof(PR)Womble to the top.10m

  9. Pull Over - E3, 6a
    More of the same.Climb direct from the platform(TR)to the large ledge,womble up.10m

  10. Hand Over - HVS, 5a
    The faint rounded corner gained awkwardly from the next step up.10m

  11. Gloss Over - E1, 5b
    The right side of the wall left of the long rectangular beam of rock.10m

  12. No push over - E1/2, 5c
    Gain the beam of rock on the left (Protection possibilities)then flail hopefully onto the top of the beam or if slender in girth squirm through,both methods are harrowing. 10m

To the right is an easy escape chimney and a square crinkly block.

  1. Eugene's Over - E1, 5c
    The centre of the block.5m

  2. Cross Over-?, ?
    The right edge of the block. 5m

Around the front again are-

  1. "How Well It Flows" - HVS, 5b
    The short ragged crack,then amble to the top.5m

  2. Arcana E4,5c
    The face right of the ragged crack. 7m.

    Sea Wall - Breakout Area
    File:Fools rush in 2.jpg
    Rich Leyshan - Fools Rush In 6c+
  3. Lysistrata - E5,6a
    Make first moves of "Arcana" to finger rail then hard moves into short crack.Straight up on two layaways to good finishing hold.7m.

  4. Bridges End - E3,6b *
    Somehow gain the pockets in the hanging arete of Undercut.Proceed past the large rusting DRILLED peg with long moves to gain jugs.7m.

  5. Undercut - E1, 5c
    The obvious hanging corner.Eugene's sitting start is much harder.7m

  6. Up In Smoke - E3 5c
    Gain the first break(painfully)continue directly up the wall via the peg runner(drilled of course).7m.

  7. Step Aside - E2, 5c
    The obvious rightward sloping crack,hard to start painful to continue.10m

  8. Cold Shoulder - HVS, 5b
    Gain the ramp from the left(spike runner in horizontal break.Use pocket in short wall(left) to finish.10m

  9. Breakout - HVS, 5a
    Pull into the hanging groove ,gain the ramp then take crozzly pockets on right.10m

  10. Fast Flow 1 - E1, 5b
    Start just right of the groove,gain and climb the brown flowstone(TR).10m

  11. Fast Flow 2 - E2, 5b
    From the low scoop gain and climb past the drilled thread in the flowstone.10m

  12. Even Faster Flow - E3,5b
    Even more threads,all drilled of course.10m.

  13. Aristophanes plays with time - E3, 6a *
    At the right end of the undercut section are some black chert lumps directly under an old yellow thread.Ensure the integrity of your spine with large numbers of bouldering mats or some "thoughtful stick clipping".Devise and execute the sequence of slaps and pulls to reach the break and continue directly up the wall. Try Eugene's sitting start for full value. 10m

  14. Turn Back Time - E3, 5b
    Joins the two routes on either side.Step up as for next route then take a short traverse left to join the yellow "tat" of the previous route. 10m

  15. Down The Mists of Time - E2, 5b
    Step up just left of the faint line of Surprise and continue direct past the situ tat. 10m

  16. Suprise,Suprise-E1, 5b
    A faint line of flakes then direct above. 10m

  17. Waiting Game - HVS, 5a
    Glaringly obvious layback flake.10m

Every persons Wall

Just outside the narrows of the second inlet is a short wall with a beach start. Either top out and belay on nuts or rusty plate thread(stolen) or lower off the top twizzle and retrieve later

  1. Medusa Spares No Head Fr6a+
    Crux at top.5.69m

  2. Prometheus Bound Fr 5+
    Crux at top.5.69m

  3. Oceanus Aches Fr 6a
    Crux at top.5.69m

  4. Dodecanese Dalliance Fr 5
    Easiest of the bunch.5.69m

Cave Inlet

File:Temple cave wall.jpg
Cave Inlet
File:Goi temple2.jpg
Goi Ashmore on Nietzche's Niche

Continue around the corner east(right) to a small patch of sand and a taller section with a pillar and cave up and right.

  1. Jericho E3 5c
    A deep water solo.Climb across from the fishermans ledge near the old sign board then up to a rubbly exit.15m

  2. Debasement of Jericho VS 4b
    Could be a handy no water start to the previous or a solo in it's own right.The shorter of the two chimneys on the left.5m

  3. The Barnacle Bill-Fr6b
    Short steep prow,take barnacled arete direct then exit on left to Fisher persons ledge and long sling belay over top.5.69m

  4. Canaan Grunts HVS 4c
    The barnacled chimney starting from the sand grind your way up to the ledge.10m

  5. Hundred Years Of Reflection Fr 6b+**
    (Not marked on topo) Reach the first holds swing up then stiff barnacle rasping gains a contorted rest,heartbraker mantle onto the ledge joined by Zaccheus Repents.13.69m.

  6. Dolce Et Decorum Est -Fr 6b+**
    Swing in from the right,over the roof to join previous then straight up to new chain belay.14m

  7. Zacchaeus Repents Fr-6b+*
    The crinkly prow breaking out early from next route.14m

  8. Chargeable Event Fr-6a*
    The barnacled scoop and corner to shared belay above ledge.14m.

  9. Lips Off Your Shofarot Fr-6a * Just to the right a barnacled wall leads to bridging up the slabby groove(purple thread).15m.

    At a higher level is the other cave which gives a little more time if climbing on an incoming tide.Best approached from the east via the "walled garden" approach if the tide has not cleared witches tip.There are no lower offs at present as it is assumed the sensible will use the routes to exit the area.Good belay on the ledge at the top of the crag,long slings could be arranged for lower offs.Due to theft of the bolt hangers off the platform bring your own+spanner or easier a couple of pulled through wire to hook the bolts.There are sufficient glue ins to construct a belay if this proves too taxing.

  10. Lane Discipline Fr 6a*
    The groove ,can be started from sea level or at higher tides step easily across from the cave ledge.14m. LO.

  11. Hogging The Mid Lane Fr 6b *
    Start just left of the cave passing a twizzle.Steep jug hauling leads to a long stretch and LO just below the ledge.15m.

  12. Life In The Slow Lane Fr 6b+ **
    Swing on up the left arete of the cave.Lower off can be arranged first or pull over easily.15m.

  13. (PROJECT-OPEN)Pull Onto The Hard Shoulder Fr 7?
    The roof,some bolts yet to be placed.

  14. Quiet Flows The Jordan Fr-5
    The blocky right side of the cave,swing on up to good belay at the top.10m

  15. Sultan's Spring Fr-5+
    A tricky bounce to start then jugs to the top.10m

  16. Blowing The Ram's Horn VS 4c
    The faint book corner to the right.9m

    Back down at sea level there is more

  17. Climb A Sycamore Tree HVS 5a
    Easy scrambling leds to the hanging arete then step up the ledges to usual belay.12m

  18. Tumbledown HS 4b
    As before then follow the ramp rightwards.12m

    Right again and at a higher level above the sand is another long cave; in the cave are:-

  19. Consequentialist Perfectionism HVS 5a
    Short and sharp, drilled but not filled, pull over the roof then proceed up stepped ledges to the terrace belay.9m.

  20. Nietzche's Niche Fr.5+ **
    Jug hauling over the "fangs",2 bolt wonder,Lower Off at first wide ledge.9m.

  21. Reverted Revisionist Fr 6a+ ***
    More excellent jug hauling on the wall left of the big roof.9m.

  22. Cartesian Dualism Fr 5 **
    Just left of the prow of the wall.Move right over the bulge to the shared belay.9m.

  23. Descarte's Dithers Fr 5+ **
    The steep prow shared belay.9m.

  24. Archimedes Screws Fr 6a+ **
    It's a topsy turvy world(on big jugs) until you reach the seperate belay.9m.

  25. The Burning Glass Fr 6b **
    More upside down antics.Not drawn on topo.9m.

  26. Siege Of Syracuse Fr 6b ***
    More of the same.The route of the crag(so far).10m.

====The

  1. Rude Buoys HS 4b
    Climb straight up the middle of wall avoiding the mod on the

Playtime Wall

File:Playtime-topo.jpg
Playtime Wall

The very short tapering wall just right of the scramble up to the fence, suitable for bouldering or beginners. Belays possible with long slings, friends (1.5 - 2) and a few fixed pieces.

  1. Jim'll Fix It- Vs 5a
    Friend 3.3.69m

  2. Now Then Now Then- Vs 4c
    Rock 7.3.69m

  3. Method Of Exhaustion - Hard Severe 4b
    Short. 3.69m.

  4. Reductio Ad Absurdum- V.Diff
    Nice. 3.69m

  5. Ad Infinitum-Severe
    Thread at top.

FIRST ASCENTS

SEA WALLS LEFT

  1. E.Jones 1996
  2. M.Crocker
  3. R.Thomas G.Royle 1987
  4. D.Meek S.Robinson 1986
  5. R.Thomas G.Royle 1988
  6. R.Thomas G.Royle 1987
  7. Prof John Harwood 1975
  8. R.Thomas G.Royle 1987
  9. R.Thomas G.Royle 1987
  10. Prof J.Harwood 1975
  11. G.Royle 1987
  12. R.Thomas G.Royle 1987

Short Sidewall

  1. E.Jones
  2. EJones

Breakout Wall

(seawalls right)

  1. R.Thomas M.Learoyd 1986
  2. M.Crocker
  3. M.Crocker
  4. R.Thomas G.Royle(rucsac step)1987.Swinging in L from Undercut at the rusty DRILLED peg Martin Crocker 2000+
  5. S.Robinson M.Learoyd 1986
  6. R.Thomas G.Royle 1987
  7. R.Thomas G.Royle 1987
  8. J.Harwood 1975
  9. J.Harwood 1975
  10. R.T
  11. R.T
  12. R.Thomas G.Royle 1987(sitting start-Eugene Travers Jones 1990's)
  13. M.C
  14. R.T 1987
  15. M.L R.T 1986
  16. R.T M.L 1986

TEMPLE BAY INLETS

First Inlet

  1. R.Thomas G.Royle 1988
  2. R.Thomas G.Royle 1986
  3. M.Learoyd R.Thomas S.Robinson D.Meek
  4. R.Thomas R.Phillips 2010
  5. R.Thomas E.Jones 2011
  6. D.Meek S.Robinson 1986
  7. R.Thomas R.Phillips 2011
  8. R.Thomas R.Phillips 2010
  9. R.Thomas G.Ashmore 2010
  10. R.Thomas 1986

Second Inlet

  1. R.Thomas Eugene Jones 23/11/2014
  2. R.Thomas R.Phillips 25/03/2015
  3. Eugene Jones R.Thomas 23/11/2014
  4. R.Thomas G.Ashmore 16/05/2013
  5. R.Thomas E.Jones 22.09.2014
  6. project
  7. Eugene T.Jones G.AShmore 00/10/2014
  8. R.Thomas E.Jones 00.09.2014
  9. project
  10. R.Thomas Two Richies 2013
  11. R.Thomas E.Jones 2011
  12. R.Thomas 2011
  13. G.Ashmore 2012
  14. R.Thomas 2012
  15. R.Thomas 2012
  16. R.Thomas
  17. R.Thomas

Cave Inlet

  1. Martin Crocker
  2. R.Thomas 1986
  3. R.Thomas 1986
  4. R.Thomas N.O'Neill 04.07.2014
  5. R.Thomas R.Leyshan R.Phillips 2011
  6. R.Thomas
  7. R.Thomas Eugene Travers-Jones 08/03/2014
  8. R.Thomas R.Phillips R.Leyshon 26.04.2014
  9. R.Thomas G.Ashmore 2012
  10. Project
  11. R.Thomas
  12. R.Thomas
  13. R.Thomas
  14. R.Thomas
  15. R.Thomas
  16. R.Thomas
  17. R.Thomas
  18. R.Thomas
  19. R.Thomas
  20. R.Thomas
  21. R.Thomas
  22. R.Thomas
  23. R.Thomas
  24. R.Thomas

The Long Wall

  1. R.Thomas
  2. R.Thomas
  3. Joe Gallacher, Matt Moore, 23rd June/2015
  4. R.Thomas
  5. R.Thomas
  6. R.Thomas
  7. R.Thomas
  8. R.Thomas
  9. R.Thomas
  10. R.Thomas
  11. N.O'Neill R.Thomas 2012

Playtime Wall

  1. R Thomas G. Royle 1986
  2. R.Thomas G.Royle 1987
  3. R Thomas G.Royle 1987
  4. R.Thomas
  5. R Thomas 1993
  6. R Thomas G.Royle
  7. R Thomas (solo) 1986

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