Taffs Well Pinnacle

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The Milk Tray man training academy sample the delights of Taffs Pinnacle.

Newcrag-20.png Contents Inland Limestone

GR: ST (3)12696, (1)83351

Bolting Policy

Retro-bolting allowed with first ascentionist permission. New sports route allowed.

Preamble

A stunning sharks tooth pinnacle of limestone, 20 m high, west facing and only a stones throw from the A470 in Tongwynlais.

The pinnacle offers bolted routes of low to moderate difficulty, ideal for clubs, groups and beginners alike.

It is predominantly seepage free and the routes generally follow slabby groove lines with occasional steepenings.

This is a new crag in an urban situation. No permission to climb has been sought or granted. Please maintain a low profile as there are residential gardens within earshot.

As with any new crag, recent cleaning has been undertaken to remove both dangerous loose rock and invasive plants which would continue to break up the rock. There may be a limited amount of dust or ivy present on your chosen route, if this is a major problem for you, please take the time to clean it yourself.

The crag is frequented by the ubiquitous midge so be aware and take the usual steps to avoid being eaten alive...

Access

From the A470 roundabout on which Taffs Well Main is situated drive north towards Taffs Well along the A4054 Cardiff Road. After 300 m take the first right, before the traffic lights, onto Ty Rhiw, which goes over the A470. After a further 350 m turn left into Forest Road (to Robert Price) and park considerately.

Opposite the T-junction is new woodland, enter this at the side of a low wall. The pinnacle is straight ahead of you, about 50 m from the road. See map at the bottom of the page.

Descent

Access to and from the top of the pinnacle is not difficult, however all routes have adequate lower-offs or adjacent lower-offs.

The Routes

Taffs Well Pinnacle

The routes are described from left to right.

  1. Project - Fr.
    Crystalline pockets to start, followed by a rising rightwards trending slab. L.O. To be cleaned.

  2. Poppin’ in the Poop Deck - Fr.5+
    Straight up the twisting groove. L.O. to the left.

  3. Megalodon - Fr. 6a
    Start as for Poop Deck to a rightwards traverse line skirting around, then over, a steep bulge. L.O.

  4. Kiss the Gunner’s Daughter - Fr. 5+
    Pull over a bulge, to a stance beneath the triangular roof. Finish up a leftwards trending ramp and the shared L.O. of Megalodon.

  5. Angry Pirate - Fr.5+
    The clean rock to the left of the crags obvious central weakness, reachy. L.O. above the high corner.

    Would you submit to the deviant fetishes of the Angry Pirate?.
  6. Sponge Bob - VD
    Rock too poor to bolt? Trad climb! Take the rounded arête of honeycombed rock (threads on your left). From a stance, step right (poor cam or bolt to the right) and pass two vertical shot holes to meet the L.O.

  7. Sharktopus Vs Megapotamus - Fr. 4+
    Steep at first but soon easing off, join Sponge Bob at the shared L.O.

  8. Yar! - Fr. 5
    The slabby groove direct. L.O.

  9. Jurassic Shark - Fr.5+
    The rightmost line with a technical layback. At the top, traverse left on jugs to join the L.O. of Yar!.

First Ascents

  1. A. Rosier & R. McAllister (Alt. leads) – 23.04.2013
  2. A. Rosier & R. McAllister (Alt. leads) – 23.04.2013
  3. A. Rosier & R. McAllister (Alt. leads) – 23.04.2013
  4. A. Rosier & R. McAllister (Alt. leads) – 25.04.2013
  5. A. Rosier & R. McAllister (Alt. leads) – 25.04.2013
  6. A. Rosier & R. McAllister (Alt. leads) – 25.04.2013
  7. A. Rosier & R. McAllister (Alt. leads) – 25.04.2013
  8. A. Rosier & R. McAllister (Alt. leads) – 25.04.2013

Chris Gilbert - Yar! (Fr. 5)

MAP

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