Sheriff Quarry, Maerdy

Contents

South East Wales Sandstone

Location Sheriff

GR: SS 96941 98477

E: 296941, N: 198477

BOLTING POLICY

Retro-bolting allowed with first ascentonist permission. New sports route allowed. Place bolts high so kids can't tamper with them.

PEAMBLE

A compact sports quarry. Easterly facing and slightly overhanging dries quickly with an unfortunate proximity to Maerdy. High first bolts so a clip stick is essential.

ACCESS

As the A4233 enters Maerdy it turns sharply right. At this point turn left up School Road, past a bus depot, and then turn right on to Mile Street/Edward Street. Park here (if you dare). From the northern end of Edward Street a track leads winds upwards towards the forest. As the track reaches the edge of the forest a steep track lead up into the forest. Follow this steep track directly into the quarry. A pillar marks the quarry entrance.

DESCENTS

Topping out is difficult due to a band of loose rock, so all routes have lower-offs or adjacent lower-offs.

ROUTES

1. The Sheriff of Loves Brown Canyon - Fr. 6b+
   Very sustained climbing up a twisting crack becoming increasingly difficult until a mud-filled shot hole offers a breif respite.
   
   
2. Maerdy Gra - Fr. 6c
   Scramble onto dusty ledge to start sustained climbing on very spaced out cracks, finger jams and pockets. Relentless.
   
   
3. Project
   
   
4. Kremlin Capers - Fr. 6b+
   Sustained fingery climb to fist jam.
   
   
5. Little Moscow - Fr. 6b
   Face climbing in the right of

FIRST ASCENTS

1. D. Emanuel 03/06/2009
2. D. Emanuel, R. Thomas 26/04/2010
3. R. Thomas
4. R. Thomas 26/04/2010
5. R. Thomas 03/06/2009