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Rams Grove Area
Contents
TIDAL STATUS
Non-tidal
BOLTING POLICY
No bolting
PREAMBLE
Saddam's Wall and the lower tier of Ram's Grove Crag have considerable scope for development. Saddam's Wall itself contains some good rock, although the brambles make it hard to get to. Ram's Grove Crag is a relatively recent development. Sadly it's not very good.
ACCESS
See Thurba Head page. From the path at the end of the farm, strike left just before the gate leading to Mewslade and take the rightwards fork a short distance on. After about 15 minutes go through the gated stile to enter a wide valley leading down to the sea. Saddam’s Wall is immediately to the left (east) when facing out to sea. Rams Grove is on the right (west) about 150m further on.
DESCENTS
For both crags descent is by walking down ridges to the right.
THE ROUTES
Saddam's Wall
The wall at the top of the valley on its east side. The rock is of the beautifully waterworn variety that is more often found underground.
1. Wam Bang Thank You Saddam 15m, E4,6A *
Start in the centre of the crag just right of the ivy sheet. Climb a groove on big jugs to a hole at 12m. Move up and right to a bulge and pocket. Step up and extend for finger jugs slightly out left. Step right, reach a crak above the top bulge and cut loose for the top.
2. A Fragile Peace 20m, E3,5c **
Brilliant on almost perfect rock. Start below a short crack on the right-hand side of the crag. Go up the crag to a shallow bulge. Stride left over a smooth slab then pull over a small overhang after a projecting foothold. Climb the waterworn face above to the top bulge and yard up on jugs out right to the exit.
Rams Grove Crag
As the pebble beach of Rams Grove is approached, there are a number of small compact cliffs to the west. The first cliff contains a number of short climbs. It is characterised by two right-facing grooves that divide the cliff into thirds. The right-hand groove is Insatiable Appetite.
1. Standing Guard 21m HVS,5a
The groove/chimney which bounds the left side of the main part of the cliff.
2. Windworn 20m E5,6a
Committing. To the right of Standing Guard is a second rightward-facing groove (Sundrench). Climb the wall just left of the groove, but step left to the centre of a bulge. Use a good undercut to stretch for a jug and pull nervously up to a small grey slab. Take the crack leftwards to finish up poor rock.
3. Snowstorm 18m E3,5c 1pt
Start as for Windworn, but continue directly to a TR at 7m, then step left and surmount the bulge. Continue up the cracks and groove above.
4. Sundrench 18m E4,6a
Follows the right-facing groove. As for Snowstorm to the steep grey wall barring entry to the groove, pull right into the groove and climb up the right wall to the top.
5. The Ram Of Radyr 18m E4,6b
The brutish bulge right of the groove of Sundrench. Take poor rock to the widest part of the ledge beneath the concave stratum. Arrange gear, including a crucial Rock 5 in a pocket over the lip. Now move over onto the face. Step up right into a very slim groove and right again into a more obvious one, leading to the top.
6. Taste of Tradition 18m E4,6a
Start 3m right of The Ram Of Radyr and climb to a bulge. Move left and then make a sustained series of moves up to a poor PR under the roof. Move over the roof and onto the slabby wall above then move left to gain a ledge. Continue up the cracked wall above to the top.
7. Beth 16m E2,5b
As for Taste Of Tradition to the bulge, PR. Move slightly right over the bulge to a left-leaning groove. Continue on better holds to the top.
8. Where East Meets West 20m E4,6a
The arete to the right of Beth. Climb direct to small ledges beneath a bulge. Reach over to finger pockets, TR, then climb rightwards on undercuts to a hidden jug near the arete. Follow thin cracks in the arete above to finish.
9. Malaysian Lust 20m E5,6b *
The saving grace of the crag. Takes the leaning groove right of Where East Meets West and left of Insatiable Appetite. From the concave stratum pull up the rib, PR, into the groove, PR and reach the top passing a 'sexy hand spike'.
10. Insatiable Appetite 13m E1,5b
The obvious right-facing groove right of Malaysian Lust and about 20m from the right end of the crag. Climb up to a bulge and make an awkward move to enter the groove. Continue with less difficulty to the top.
11. Don't Tell Anne 13m E3,6a
Climb the wall 3m right of Insatiable Appetite passing an overlap to reach small ledges. Take the easier groove above to the top. Committing and high in the grade.
12. Honey 13m E1,5b
Start 3m right of Don't Tell Anne below an obvious square-cut overhang at the top of the crag. Climb a wall until a move can be made leftward to a groove below the overhang. Continue up the groove at its right side.
13. August Mank Holiday 15m E1,5b
The obvious diagonal line from the start of Honey to the groove of Insatiable Appetite.
14. Sugar 12m E1,5b
Climb the vague grooves just right of Honey.
15. 50 Franc Menu 12m VS,4c
Start well to the right of Sugar, where the concave strata meets the ground. Climb the shallow yellow groove and then move rightwards into the groove above.
16. Entre 9m VS,4c
Climb the cracked wall just right of 50 Franc Menu.
17. Appetizer 8m S
The short broken groove on the far right of the crag.
Further seawards and due south of Rams Grove Crag proper is a lower tier.
18. Soundstrip 27m E3,5c
About 25m from the right end of the lower tier is a 3m high pinnacle at the base of the cliff. The route starts just below it and takes the solid grey strip right of the left-leading crack left of the pinnacle. Climb the crack for 6m to superb gear, swing right onto the face and ascend direct to a slight break. Continue direct, then slightly leftwards to a slab beneath the left end of a small roof, TR. Move left, then back right to exit up an easy solid rib.
FIRST ASCENTS
Saddam's Wall
1. M. Crocker, J. Harwood 22.02.1998
2. M. Crocker, J. Harwood 22.02.1998
Rams Grove Crag
1. N.Williams solo Pre-1991
2. M.Crocker, J.Harwood 09.02.1998
3. P.Thomas, J.Harwood 1pt 12.02.1989
4. M.Crocker, J.Harwood 27.12.1997
5. M.Crocker, J.Harwood 27.12.1997
6. P.Thomas, J.Harwood 23.05.1989
7. P.Thomas, J.Harwood 01.01.1989
8. M.Crocker 17.10.1998
9. M.Crocker, J.Harwood 09.02.1998
10. N.Williams Pre-1991
11. M.Crocker, J.Harwood 27.12.1997
12. A.Richardson, L.Moran 00.00.1988
13. M.Richards, J.Harwood 28.08.1999
14. A.Richardson, L.Moran 00.00.1988
15. N.Williams solo Pre-1991
16. N.Williams solo Pre-1991
17. N.Williams solo Pre-1991
18. M.Crocker 09.02.1998
