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Rotherslade

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Bouldering

Bouldering in Gower


TIDAL STATUS

The entire area is above water 3 hours either side of low tide.

PREAMBLE

The troll

The Troll's Song :

You've been working against me
for quite some centuries :

The tantrums you throw at me
on winter nights I would survive
but your incessant drip
will gnaw at my bones until I join
my ancestor's
spirits in the sand.

I smiled today!
One whom God is pleased to call his child
pulled at my beard, poked his toe in my nose
tugged at my eyebrow
and sat on my head.
There he watched the dying sun
and worshipped in his way.

by chris wyatt 2008


Rotherslade Beach is below the cafe with the stage area on rothers tor giving you the opportunity to flaunt your stuff in front of an appreciative audience of beach goers and cofee drinkers. Just over the concrete breakwater is a small cove containing a number of problems and the diamond. This is a good place to get a quick accessible work out.

The more secluded Rotherslade East is only 3 minutes walk eastwards from the Cafe. You are there It has a number of areas centered on the old troll. There is plenty of exploring for kids or you could just have a picnic away from the crowds of langland bay

ACCESS

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Drive up through Mumbles High Street (Newton Road) and turn left at the Baptist church into Langland Road. As the road nears the top of the hill take the second of three adjacent left turns (Rotherslade Road) and park in the road.

Walk down to Rotherslade beach for the stage. Hop over the breakwater for the cove and diamond or go through the gully on the east side of the beach to get to Rotherslade East

MAP OF AREA (East)

The The map
Charles mason mooching about

THE BOULDERING

The Stage

The Stage Area
 As discussed - prepare for an audience. - but the problems are worth doing


1. Up the centre of the slightly impending face on crimps. You can break off left at the top for a slightly easier version

2. The right edge of the face on bigger holds

3. The traverse - either way (or both)

The Cove - LH

The Cove West face
 You will be looking at this as you cross the causeway


1. The long traverse usually takes a bit of working out

2. 3. A couple of easier lines

4. To the left of the nose on crimps

5. Use the nose as a sloper

6. A difficult line from the cave out right of the nose

7. Highball and scary. That said there are good holds around. You can make this even scarier by going right at the top

The Diamond

The Diamond
 This elevated slab can be found on the west face of the tor.


1. Work out how to climb directly onto the slab then climb it

There are numerous easier problems on this side of the tor


Cove RH

The cove RHS
 A few worthwhile problems here


1. Heelhooking exercise

2. Smearing exercise.

3. Take the break all the way up

4. Get your feet firmly into the break and launch up on small pockets. A good problem

5. The Break all the way (Sit start)

6. A shorter wimp out of the previous route



We now move over the rocky barrier on the east side of the bay into a land of tranquility

3P Wall

The 3P wall
 Once through the passageway from Rotherslade beach, this is one of the first features you will see. A good place to warm up.


1. The steep bit. Jammed footholds are allowed

2. Take the lip of the overhangs to the top then rock over

3. The right wall

Toadstool

The 3P wall
 If the sand is low enough these make a couple of unlikely small roofs. Big holds everywhere


1. The lefthand line

2. The Right hand line


Banana

Banana RHS
 Some Safe but hard problems here


1. Traverse along the break. 8 Hard moves! V5


Banana RHS prob 2


2. Harder than it looks due to a paucity of foot holds


The Troll

The Trolll
 The troll has a number of worthwhile steep problems. All finish on the top


1. Troll traverse V3A full right to left traverse under the roof breaking out on the left hand side

2. Start in the niche, traverse left and then power up to reach holds on the lip . Mantel to the top

3. Start in the niche and work right and up on amazing holds

4. Start right of the niche with feet in the lower break. Jug pull to the top

5. The Right hand edge

Troll Wall Left

Troll Wall Leftl
 Some pleasant highballs and a balancey arrete


1. Up the left side of the wall

2. A line to the right

3. The first arrete. Holds on the left of the corner are out of bounds!


Troll Wall Right

Troll Wall Rightl
 Includes an an interesting arrete on slopers


1. Straight up the slab

2. Use only holds on the arrete to reach the top

3. The steep wall to the right

Warm up Wall

The warm up wall
 A bit barnacled (bring a wire brush!)


1. the long traverse along the break

2. The arrete of the overhang

3. A line to the right

4. Just left of the main overhang

Heel Crusher Wall

Heel Crusher Wall
 Don't fall off or bring a mate and a mat!)


1. the long traverse along the break left to right

2. A line up the left overhang

3. Take the apparently smooth scoop via some interesting holds - tends rightwards

4. The crack up the vertical wall

5. A low start behind a boulder - diagonally leftwards - reassuringly just above the ramp

6. Start as above but tend rightwards - harder and highball

The Secret Garden

Secret Garden East Wall
 An overall view.


What is interesting here is how the sand comes in and out. These pictures show wonderful soft landings but often you would have to bring plenty of mats


Secret Garden East

Secret Garden East Wall
 The East (Right facing the sea) side of the secret garden.)


1. Yes! We do have jamming cracks in the Gower

2. A powerful sequence via slopers

3. An interesting lay-back around the bridge


Secret Garden West Wall

Secret Garden West Wall
 The West side .

1. Ivy V2 Takes the pillar bounding the wall on the left.

2. Sweet Pea V3 Up the smooth wall via a sidepull/undercling for the right hand. Highball finish for satisfaction or slink off left shortly after the break for the cautious. A good problem.

3. Rocket V3 To the right of the last line. Power up via pockets in the break to a hidden hold in the upper diagonal break. Highball finish

4. A hole in the wall V4 Start as for rocket and finger traverse to reasonable hand holds at the right hand end of the lower break. From here, using subtle footwork and explosive power make a buzz lightyear maneuver for a hidden jug in a pocket in the dome shaped wall to your right. Proceed up the wall to finish

There is probably scope for harder problems on the dome shaped wall

Secret Garden West Wall (continued)

Secret Garden West Wall
 The West side (continued) .


1 -3 A collection of good lines


Secret Garden West Wall (continued)

Secret Garden West Wall
 The West side (continued) .


1. Digitalis V3 A hard route on the face going for a positive pocket just left of the crack (2) near the top

2. An unlikely crack giving very positive holds.


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