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Punk Rocks
GR xxx xxx
Contents
BOLTING POLICY
Quarried sandstone rules apply,new sports routes allowed.Retro bolting with F.A.P
PREAMBLE
East facing quarries above Cymmer(Porth)There are several sections of varying quality. Belays will be poor or non existent so a spare rope may be handy to hitch to the fence posts.
ACCESS
From the west Jct 34 M4,Llantrisant then Porth road(A4233)When descending from Trebanog take a left before the large chinese takeaway(on the opposite side of trhe road) then third right to park in a small cul de sac next to the school sport fields. From Porth take the Trebanog road(A4233) up the hill taking the first right after the large chinese takeaway to finally reach the same parking spot near the playing field.Follow the track up the hill to arrive at the second quarry.
DESCENTS
Lower off or walk off? Rope length required?
THE ROUTES
Routes described from left to right as one approaches them.
FIRST QUARRY
- James Bond-E1,5b
Gain the shelf below the highest point of the quarry by a thin crack below its right end.Follow the vague groove right then back left.15m. - Eddy Edwards-HVS,5a
Description of the route. Route length in metres. - Edwina Curry-HVS,5b
- Black Looks-E2,5b
- To Distant Friends-VS,4c
The obvious crack.10m.
SECOND QUARRY
"A rope from the stile in the fence above will back up the belays"
- Intravenous Suffragette Injection-E2,5c
- The Scoop-Vs,4c
- Dai Swastika-HVS,5a
- Call My Bluff-E2,5c
- Mona Lisa-E4,6b
- Completely Punked-E1,5b
- Waiting Game-E3,5c
- Ferret Wall-E1,5c
- Amen Corner-VS.4b
- Broga-y-Meirow-HVS,5c
- The Entrepreneur-E15b
The cracks in the wall just before the next quarry.12m.
THIRD QUARRY
- False Protection E3,5c The obvious jam crack,pass the loose band to the headwall,BR.Move left onto the arete.14m.
FOURTH QUARRY
- Window Shopping-HS,4c9m
- Left Hand START-HS,5b 5m
- Syd B'Arete-HS,4c 6m
First Ascents
- A.Name 00.00.0000
