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Pobbles Quarries

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Contents

Gower

Newcrag-20.png

TIDAL STATUS

Non-tidal.

BOLTING POLICY

Retro bolting permissible, new sport routes allowed.

PREAMBLE

The top slab is an 18 metre slab in a disused quarry above Pobbles Beach. A sheltered evening sun trap. Needs cleaning up a bit and the remaining trad routes bolted to make a pleasant beginners' crag. The other two quarries are smaller and are of little interest. These routes have very loose top-outs.

The climbs marked with a dagger ( Dagger.png ) are not recommended in their current state.

ACCESS

Approach is quickest from Southgate NT Car Park. Take the track from the car park towards Three Cliffs. Keep within sight of the cliff edge until you see a prominent short metal pole near the edge. At this point, the cliff edge turns northwards. Follow the cliff edge for a short way, until you see, the south-facing slab of the main quarry. Easily seen from the cliff edge.

Descend fairly steeply down the east side of the quarry past a pinnacle and then traverse (contour) around rightwards to the quarry.

DESCENTS

The normal access route is the easiest way back down.

THE ROUTES

Top Quarry

  1. Wind Her Up S 19m. Dagger.png
    More of a Darwinian experiment than a route. A spiffing adventure unless you snap a hold, old school fixed gear (bootlace threads) for the nostalgic. Climb the hollow slab to gain the even looser top calcite sheet, tallyho!

  2. Winder Down H.V.Diff 18m Dagger.png
    A very slight improvement on the previous climb. Climb the unprotected gray runnel (2m L of Pigeon) to join the previous route at the "floating calcite sheet". Go ahead and retrobolt me and the previous route..

  3. Pigeon 20m S
    Climb onto a hollow flake and then, after following the flake upwards and slightly leftwards, take a direct line to the top.

  4. Roy Rogered 17m HS
    Start just below a small v-shaped ledge at 2 metres. Head straight for the top.

  5. Lady-flavoured Slug Trail Fr. 4
    Slab

  6. Octo-Scolanoo Fr. 5
    Slab. Interesting start

Middle Quarry

Broken slab. Little of interest.

Bottom Quarry

Small slab.

First Ascents

R.Thomas - Sept 2012
R.Thomas - Sept 2012
M. Winder, J.Hoskins, A. N. Other 16-05-12
M. Winder, T.Boothby 22-08-12
D. Emanuel 08-08-12
D. Emanuel 08-08-12