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Pennard Upper Cliffs

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Bouldering


PREAMBLE

There is plenty of non-tidal bouldering at Pennard, including a number of problems at Graves End East at around English 5b-6b finishing at the Baboon Traverse. But the area comes into its own for low level traversing and a couple are listed below.

ACCESS

Approach as for the routes at Graves End, but continue dropping down instead of turning left towards the base of the main crag.

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THE ROUTES

1 Stamina traverse eng 5c

Just below Graves End Wall is a wall around 4m high which can be traversed for nearly 100m at around English 5c though the best bit for laps is the steeper section near the eastern end. Lots of straight up potential at the same sort of difficulty but careful how you land! It can be accessed from the west by dropping down before the bottom of Graves End Wall, or the east by scrambling down a short gully just below Kamin.

2 Power Endurance Traverse eng 6b

A great boulder problem located directly below the lower main path where is passes a small flat topped boulder. Best access is to drop down on a smaller path around 30m east of the small boulder, more or less directly below Kamin. Nice landing, minimal seepage, sheltered and a sun-trap. The traverse starts on flatties on east side of the 'crag' and goes right to left roughly following the break. Probably about V5 or eqiv to a 7b+ sports route. There are a few good strait ups from sit down starts too, and a harder low level eliminate.

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