Paviland Way Out West (Quarter Dome Slabs)

Contents

Gower

Paviland and Juniper Wall

TIDAL STATUS

Non-tidal.

BOLTING POLICY

No bolting.

DESCENTS

From the top head right (east) to gain the gully initially used to approach the crag (i.e. that above Paviland Far Far West).

The Routes

These are the fairly vegetated west-south-west facing slabs above and east of Stallion Cove.

1. Flaming June!? 20m E2,5b
   A delicious clean slab topped by nonsense. Start about 30m left (west) of the bounding ridge and col on the right. Take easy flake cracks onto the smoother grey slabs and climb direct on pockets, TR, to a bulge. Pull up onto the leaning wall and go up to the top.
   
   
2. Winter Looms So Soon 25m E2,5b
   Start 10m left of Flaming June!? beneath the most prominent overhang at 15m. Climb a fairly obvious right-facing flake crack then transfer left onto another, old TR. Trend slightly right to a fawn coloured scoop in a bulge. Pull through the scoop to good incuts and move up to the overhang. Surmount the roof on the right and finish up the headwall, taking care with the exit.
   
   

FIRST ASCENTS

1. M.Crocker, J.Harwood 07.06.1998
2. M.Crocker 10.10.1998'