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Overton Cliff
GR 455849
TIDAL STATUS
Non-tidal.
BOLTING POLICY
No bolting.
ACCESS
DESCENTS
Walk down the path on the east (right) side of the crag.
The ROUTES
The cliff is to the east of the mouth of the valley and at first sight is impressive, but unfortunately the routes start from a grass ledge at the level of the cave on the south face, reducing the length to 14m.The easier routes on the left of the crag have much unstable rock,there have been at least two serious accidents here as a result of loose blocks so proceed cautiously.
1. Bush Bay 'A' 14m D
Start from the brambly bay on the west end of the crag. Climb up and left under the overhang to step across into a groove, with a choice of finishes, the easiest being on the left.
2. Bush Baby 14m S
Start in the brambly bay. Climb the arete on its right to the overhang, move right onto the face to a detached block and climb the shallow groove on the right of this on poor rock.
3. South West Corner 14m D
This takes the corner left of the centre of the crag.
4. West Wall 14m S
A vague line up the right wall of the corner.
5. Black Widow 14m HVS,5a
This climbs the lethal groove on the upper face, right of West Wall.
6. One Ton Plus 13m E3,5c *
Start 6m left of the cave. Climb a vague crack to finger pockets, TR and continue direct with a tricky move (large Friend). Trend right through the bulge to a huge hold over the lip and pull up easily to the top.
7. Featherweight 13m E4,6a
Start 4m left of the cave. Reach a shallow rectangular recess and climb the face above (old BR stub on the right). Pull up to a thin flake (thin tape possible), then forcefully over the bulge to finish directly over a small roof.
8. South Wall 14m E1,5b *
This follows the line of old bolts and drilled pegs 5m left of the cave. It can be started directly to the bolt stub, or reached by traversing in from the base of the cave.
9. Air Jordan 14m E1,5b
Climb straight up out of the cave and climb the wall directly above, with a good steep move.
10. Cave Crack 14m VS,4b
This climbs the rib at the right of the cave, over a small overhang and up the groove to the top.
FIRST ASCENTS
- C.Shorrock, J.Robinson 15.02.97
- J.Robinson, C.Shorrock 15.02.1997
- A.Osborne, Brian Taylor 00.00.1952
- J.Talbot 00.00.1969
- T.Moon, C.Maybury 00.00.1973
- M.Crocker 28.12.1998
- M.Crocker 28.12.1998
- J.Talbot 00.00.1968
FFA G.Evans, G.Richardson 01.01.1978 - M.Jordan, G.Ashmore 18.02.2001
- T.Moon, C.Maybury 00.00.1973
