Ogmore Old

TIDAL STATUS

Highly variable, but never more than 3½ hours either side of low water at the east end of the cliff and never more than 3 hours either side of low water at the west. Normally about 2 hours average either side of low water along the cliff. Recessed areas like the Biscuit slightly longer. Some routes, especially those on Elephant Wall, Scutch Wall and Fire Wall have platforms which extend accessibility.

The cut off point of Davey Jones' Locker can only be crossed at the lowest of tides. It should be assumed that you cannot cross this area at any time, so pick you routes in advance and choose an appropriate approach.

BOLTING POLICY

No Bolting

Ogmore - Viewed from Southerndown. Photograph: Alan Rosier

PREAMBLE

Ogmore is one of the most important sea cliffs in Britain. Unsurprisingly it contains the greatest concentration of South East Wales’ best traditionally protected routes. It is wild, steep, exciting and seriously underrated. You will either love it or hate it but whichever it is you must encounter “the Ogmore experience”.

Ogmore is a limestone sea cliff situated between Ogmore by Sea and Southerndown. It offers climbing of a strenuous nature; steep, overhanging, but generally well supplied with holds. The rock is mostly good but some of the finishes may require care. It can suffer from seepage and is extremely tidal, with the tide rising 6m to 9m up the cliff, so beware of in-situ gear and use tide tables. It is a great crag for those who value adventure and excitement in their climbing, but is no place for the incompetent.

The cliff is south facing and so can be hot in the summer and catches the moist prevailing winds. However, on cold clear winter days with a brisk northerly wind it is surprisingly warm and sheltered, even at the belay points at the top of the cliff.

Ogmore has recently been touted as a deep-water soloing venue. Whilst it is true that there are some routes with good depths of water below them at high tide, it is important to remember that the tidal range is staggering and staggeringly variable. More importantly, the soloist should be aware that there are very strong currents hereabouts and a lot of low-level sea caves. Being swept into one of these and drowned is a serious possibility. Aspirants should always check the fall out zones at low water, before considering a deep water solo.

ACCESS

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The layout of Ogmore is difficult to get to grips with and abseil in is the most practical way of approach. However, due to the tides, escape can be difficult, without a little forethought.

There are two approaches from the road. The western approach is the most useful, for anything to the west of Mother Earth. For the eastern end of the crag, the Southerndown Approach is more useful, but a parking fee is due at some times of the year. Most climbers who are familiar with the crag will tend to abseil in from various points but be warned that the stakes are of unknown origin or age; always find a way to back them up.

1. Western Access

Follow the B4524 from Ogmore by Sea towards Southerndown (Dunraven Bay) until it reaches a sharp bend passing West Farm (just after the sign marking the boundary of Southerndown). Park above the cliffs in a grassy area bounded by concrete posts adjacent to 'The Barn'. A narrow gully directly below this parking area leads to the Pinnacle. When facing out to sea, the pinnacle is visible to the east (left) and marks the start of Exposure Explosion and is more or less directly above the line of Jumping Jack Flash which lies between Ogmore Popular Area and Elephant Wall.

A smaller parking area to the east of 'The Barn' marked by a danger sign on the cliff top is the prefferred parking spot for access to Davey Jones' Locker and Phaser Wall.

2. Southerndown Access

Follow the B4524 a little further to a sharp left-hand bend at the Three Golden Cups pub, but go straight on down the smaller road sign-posted ‘Beach’. Park in the car park at the base of the hill (parking fee in spring and summer) and walk out to the concrete slipway. Turn back west (right if facing out to sea) to walk into the crag. Note that it is only possible to walk all the way along the base of the cliff at dead low water on spring tides, due to the cut off points round Davy Jones’ Locker and Scutch.

THE AREAS OF OGMORE

THE WESTERN CRAG

Western Crag

Western Crag - Left

Western Crag - Right

Just Taking a Gander - E1 5b

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Alan Rosier on Christmas Cracker(?). The mid height overhangs to the left contain the route Kite, Mighty Steel-(white tat with rotted peg visible in pic) etc.

At the far left (west) end of the crag is a large square cave with a prominent rock scar to its right. The following three routes are on the wall left of the cave. They lead to a large ledge with stake belays that are also useful for abseiling. These routes are 100m to the left (west) of Route 1.

A difficult area to pick your routes as there are fewer natural features hereabouts. The area can be prone to seepage after rain.

Spangle Texture VS 4b
Start 4m left of the cave. Gain the first horizontal crack traverse left and go directly to the belay on the ledge.18m
In Dispute With Nappy Rash HVS 5a 18m.
Start 3m left of the cave. Climb easily onto a ledge, continue to the upper horizontal break and traverse slightly left until a line of holds lead to the large ledge.
Raw Energy E2 5c 18m.
Start just left of the cave. Climb via an undercut ledge and flake crack to the roof. Pull up left onto the obvious nose, move left up the wall, PR and continue over the small roof to the large ledge.

The right side of the prominent white buttress forming the right side of the square cave houses the remains of The Pursuit Of Happiness (S.Bartlett, S.Kennedy 2pt 1980, FFA A.Sharp, Owen Jones 1986). Two new routes occupy the area of the cave.
Lipstick 27m E3,6a
Start at the left edge of the cave, at a ragged undercut ledge at head height as for Raw Energy. Pull onto the ledge and climb rightwards into a white corner. Make a hard move over the bulge to gain good holds up and right on the wall. Traverse right for 6m along the lip of the roof, until a line of weakness leads over a small overhang to the terrace.
Winchfactor Five 20m E2 5c
The smooth groove right of the cave. Move up to a slot place a crucial Friend 2Â½, then traverse right to a sloping ledge at the foot of the groove. Follow the groove to the right-hand limit of the cave roof. Swing right and finish up a well-protected pocketed crack through the bulge.

The long wall to the right of the square cave has few notable features and contains these routes.
Chill Factor 18m HVS,5a
A route that has been affected by storms. Start right of the cave, just left of a grey arete. Climb up for 1Â½m before moving right onto the arete and up to an overhang. Step left to a ledge, back right and climb the roof to the top.
Side Step 24m VS,4b
Start just right of a shallow cave at the featureless wall. Climb diagonally left for 15m to follow a weakness in the upper wall.
Goose Step VS 4b
Bla Bla 17.69mLocated from the ledge above as this and the next 3 routes have good belays and can easily be approached by abseil to squeeze out the last of the tide.
Sauce For The Goose HVS 5b
Details following soon 17.69m
Now Your Goose Is Cooked HVS 5a
Bla bla
Just Taking A Gander E1 5b
bla

5.69 m right are a series of obvious overhangs.

Kite18m E1,5b
Climb to the lower overhangs 4m from their left end. Follow a crack round the first overhang, then move left over the top overhang to finish.
Swing Wing 18m E3,5c
Start as for Kite. Climb to the first overhang and pull over this. Move right to a short corner, then leftwards and back right, to finish over the final overhang.
Mighty Steel 18m E5,6c
Start from a recessed ledge right of Kite. Climb to the first roof, PR, undercut through the break in the roof, to better holds, then direct, PR, through the roofs to a recess and an exit leftwards.
Storm Damage 18m E2,5b
Start below a slabby white rib. Climb to the right side of the roofs then directly over to the top.
Christmas Cracker 18m HVS,4c *
Start 9m right of Kite, below the right side of the overhangs at a shallow groove. Climb the right rib of the groove for 9m then move up right to a bulge. Climb back left above the bulge, surmount the overhang and finish up the obvious groove to the left.
Christmas Hangover 18m HS,4b
Climbs the groove just right of Christmas Cracker. Climb the nose to a ledge, then follow the line of least resistance up right to finish.
Slippery Jim 18m HVS,4c
Start just right of Christmas Hangover. Aim for the corner at the left side of the overhang. From this climb slightly left, moving up rightwards to finish up the groove.
Strategic Zap Attack 18m E3,6b *
Start just left of Twinkle Buttress and surmount the large roof at 12m. Powerful moves are needed to get over the roof at its widest point, PR.
Wazzock 18m HVS,5a *
Start below the right hand side of the Strategic Zap Attack roof, below a groove. Gain the groove and climb it direct on good holds. Finish directly over the overlap.

First Ascents

S.Blackman, M.Eden 00.00.1984
G.Lewis, S.Lewis 00.00.1983
M.Learoyd, R.Thomas, G.Royle 00.00.1984
M.Crocker, D.Sergeant 18.07.1999
M.Crocker, D. Sergeant 18.07.1999
P.Littlejohn, S.Lewis 11.01.1981
J.Harwood, C.Horsfield 10.05.1978
R.Thomas solo 2002
R.Thomas Matt Hirst
R.Thomas Nick O'Neill

R.Thomas Nick O'Neill

S.Lewis, J.Harwood 04.10.1978
P.Littlejohn, T.Penning 18.01.1983
M.Crocker, M.Ward 26.04.1987
M.Crocker, R.Thomas 29.03.1987
P.Thomas, J.Mothersele 00.00.1972
J.Mothersele 00.00.1972
J.Harwood, C.Horsfield 01.12.1974
M.Crocker, M.Ward, R.Thomas 26.04.1987
J.Kerry 00.00.1971

Between Sisestep and Kite Route No.s 7 & 8 (Left to Right) are the following routes by R. Thomas. These are good, with solid belay metal in situ on the ledge and easy to rattle up and down on a sunny evening when the tides aint brilliant.

Goose Step VS

Sauce for The Goose HVS 5b

Now Your Goose is Cooked HVS 5a

Just Taking A Gander - E1 5b. Climb slabby and spikey rock to about half height and the first horizontal break. Climb up to the second break where the rock starts to bulge and patiently arrange small wire protection. A good No.2 wire placement is overhead to the left. Pass to the left of an old peg with white tat, and gain steep but easier ground. Belay on the ledge above using cams and in-situ metal.

TWINKLE BUTTRESS

The small prominent buttress standing out from the general line of the cliff. Some of the shortest and easiest routes are here. A good place to escape with abseil point in place if you don't want to climb down Route 1.

Pillock 15m VS,4c
The overhanging chimney and shallow groove just left of Twinkle.
Twinkle 12m D
Takes the easiest line on the left edge of the buttress.
Route 1 12m D
The obvious corner to the right of the buttress.
Canute Left Hand 12m HVS,5b
Take the middle of the face between Route 1 and Canute directly, to finish just left of Canute.
Canute 12m VD
To the right of Route 1 is a wall with a shallow corner on its right. Climb the crack on the right and move round left onto the wall. Follow a shallow groove up to the left.
Canute Right Hand 12m HVS,5a
Climb Canute to step right under a bulge to the foot of a shallow corner. Finish up this.

The next feature is the obvious corner and roof of Leprechaun.
Leprechaun 18m E2,5c *
A claasic piece of awkward climbing. Start 9m right of Route 1 at an obvious corner capped by a large overhang. Gain the overhang then move right to a bottomless corner. Go up to a flake crack then move left across blocks to the top.

The line of Oedipus Variation E3,6b (M.Learoyd, G.Royle 1984) has fallen down.

First Ascents

P.Thomas 00.00.1972
J.Mothersele 00.00.1972
J.Mothersele 00.00.1972
J.Harwood, M.Ismail 20.09.1998
C.Horsfield 00.00.1972
P.Thomas 00.00.1972
J.Kerry 1pt 00.00.1973
FFA P.Littlejohn, J.Harwood, J.Mothersele 22.06.1977

OGMORE POPULAR END

Once again a good trawl of the top will reveal good belays and stakes for belays. Avoid leaving rucsacs in view as there are scrotes about especially weekends/holiday times.Try hiding them by Twinkle or gear up at the car.

Popular End Topo

Some big (hard) roofs are mixed in with old fashioned feature climbs in the HVS to E1! range.

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Abbey Road HVS

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The Gremlin E1

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Bob Brewer on Megalopolis E1

Megalopolis is a bit strenuous and awkward for the tall.

Once again a good trawl of the top will reveal good belays and stakes for belays. Avoid leaving rucsacs in view as there are scrotes about especially weekends/holiday times.Try hiding them by Twinkle or gear up at the car.

Pluto marks the left side of a shallow bay 95 metres across.

Open Invitation 27m E5,6b
The smooth wall between Pluto and Finger Print gives a technical, reachy climb, with gear that is spaced and difficult to place. Might be E6 to on-sight. Ascend the easy crack just left of Finger Print and continue direct up the steep wall to a horizontal crack (good wires out left). Move right up to the next horizontal break, (crucial rock 3 or friend 0) then make a hard move to a small overlap and climb the thin crack in the leaning wall to the top.
Finger Print 27m E4,6a **
A classy roof problem. Start under an overhang on the wall right of Pluto. Climb to the overhang, place wires above the roof where the PR used to be, then move over it and continue steeply up the crack to finish.
Thumbs Up 27m E4,6a *
A fine pitch, which is slightly run out. Follow Fingerprint over the overhang, then traverse right above the lip to a small ledge. Climb the awkward wall above to the top.

To the right is a series of right facing and trending corners, with overhangs at their base. (Abbey Road to Megalopolis).
Brothers In Arms 27m E6,6b *
Amenable for the grade. The obvious crack in the impending left wall of the corner of Abbey Road. Climb to a small roof and good wires. Move over this into the thin crack above and a crafty no hands knee bar. Continue, 2PRs, up and into the crack, which splits a larger roof above. Continue through the roof and the crack above to the top.
Abbey Road 27m HVS,5a ***
Airy climbing up the first of the right-facing corners. Bridge up the cave for 4m then traverse right onto the wall. Climb to the overhang and follow the awkward right-hand groove to the next overhang. Step left and up to finish.
Roof Of The World 24m E5,6b **
A technical route with a complicated roof section and good protection. Follow The Gremlin to the roof at 12m, PR, step left and climb through the roof using a concealed pocket on the lip, PR. Finish up the wall just left of the arete to the top.
The Gremlin 27m E1,5a *
Right of Abbey Road are two shallow grooves which meet at a more obvious v-groove. Climb the left, cracked groove and continue rightwards round the overhangs to a niche. Traverse right under the bulging wall to a groove and the top.
The Arrow 27m E2,5c **
A good pitch cutting through The Gremlin, with a taxing move to gain the smooth groove. Climb to a small roof 2m right of Gremlin. Move left onto the wall. Gain the smooth groove/corner, then pull out left at the roof and continue round the overhanging blocks on the left to finish up a short corner on the right.
Titanic 27m E4,6a
Climb the capped groove and arete right of The Arrow. Swing left with difficulty to gain a bottomless and unfriendly crack and the finishing groove of The Gremlin.
Mauritania 27m E5,6b
Climb to the roof as for Titanic. Struggle out right over the roofs until it is possible to swing back left to the top, TR.
Megalopolis 33m E1,5a *
A little left of centre of the left part of the bay 12m right of Abbey Road is a clean wall bounded on its left by a continuous overhang and a roof at the top. Bridge the cave to gain a corner crack leading to the roof. Traverse right to the second overhang. Overcome this to finish right. Hexes give more secure protection than friends.
Rat Fink 27m HVS,4c *
Bold. Climb the centre of the wall right of Megalopolis and move right to gain a thin crack. Climb it to a horizontal break 3m below the overhang and step right, away from the end of the Megalopolis traverse. Climb up the wall and finish slightly rightwards.It is also possibe to come in from the arete at E1.
Rat Fink Direct Start 24m E1,5b *
Start 3m right of Rat Fink. Climb steeply and pull over the roof using a large hold to gain the upper wall of Rat Fink.

Many of the routes in the next section have been affected by storms. Questimodo (P.Littlejohn, A.Sharp 1977), A Sugar Free Diet (M.Crocker, R.Thomas 1989) and Drill For Glory (M.Crocker, M.Ward, R.Thomas 1988) are no longer viable.
Questimodo Direct 22m E5,6a
This has survived the waves. Boldly layback the blank groove rising above the shallow cave right of Ratfink.

The next section is characterised by three obvious flat roofs at 22m, just before the angle of the bay.
Loaded Question 27m E3,5c **
Interesting. Start below and to the left of the three large roofs. Climb the wall to a ledge at 9m and traverse left on undercuts to gain a thin finishing crack.
Implausible Suggestion 27m E5,6a **
Climb the wall just right of Loaded Question to gain the same ledge at 9m. Head up and right to the widest point of the roof, PR, small wires, then cut wildly out through it to an easy finish.
Jumping Jack Flash 33m E1,5c *
This takes the chimney between the two left-hand roofs. Climb a groove 5m left of a round cave to a niche below an overhang. Pull onto the left wall and continue to a recess below the overhang. Move right to blocks then left to a chimney. Climb the chimney and the crack on the left to finish.
Griffin 32m E3,6a **
Start just right of Jumping Jack Flash at a round cave. Climb the vague corner left of the round cave until it becomes a vertical cave at 7m. Place good runners in the back right hand wall of the cave, then swing across its left wall to a hanging groove. Up this to easier ground and a stance in the corner below the main overhang and finish up either corner.
Pinocchio 36m HVS,4c ***
This should be on every climber's tick list. The climb finishes up a short chimney on the right side of the three overhangs. Climb a leftward rising crack/corner line below and right of the overhangs to a ledge beneath a steep wall. Traverse left past a crack above and climb the bulging wall to a chimney. Climb the chimney, step left along the lip of the overhang, with your stomach in your mouth. Continue up left to a crack which is followed to a pinnacle, sit down and consider those who were at their limit when it was graded VS!
The Flasher 84m HVS,4a,4b,4c,5a,4c
A poor right to left girdle, starting at the pinnacle as for Exposure Explosion. The only good pitch is above Fingerprint at 5a.
1. 7m Move round the outside of the pinnacle, descend a crack/chimney to belay under an overhang.
2. 21m Follow the break out left to a corner, (Megalopolis).
3. 22m Continue along the break into a corner (Abbey Road) via a steep hand traverse.
4. 16m Traverse around the arete and descend slightly before reaching the top of a crack, (Fingerprint). Continue into a corner then move out left onto the arete.
5. 18m Traverse left to a swing across a bottomless corner. Cross a grassy groove and climb a crack on the left to finish.
Exposure Explosion 84m HVS,4a,4b,4c,4c,4a,4a,5a***
A brilliant left to right girdle that has seen its fair share of epics with people being lowered into the sea, complete with expensive cameras and watches, due to poor rope work and an inability to communicate. The route is best climbed when "the waves are crashing below slobbering and sucking like some disgusting animal". It starts from the pinnacle described in the Western Approach (A4).
1. 7m From the right (east) side of the pinnacle descend a crack and chimney to belay in a confined area at the start of the traverse.
2. 20m Follow the break out right to a stance on the arete prior to entering Wet Look cave (This is the top of Elephant Wall P1).
3. 8m Traverse round the arete to the cave of Wet Look.
4. 11m Climb rightwards out of the cave to belay on good ledges outside the cave.
5. 26m Continue right to belay on a small stance on a prominent buttress (this is part of Scutch).
6. 7m Traverse right around the arete to a belay in a corner/chimney (Siren).
7. 8m Traverse right for 5m then make hard moves up to gain the top.

First Ascents

M.Crocker, M.Ward 01.06.1985
A.Sharp, S.Lewis 00.00.1977
P.Littlejohn, J.Mothersele 27.04.1984
M.Learoyd, R.Thomas 1pt 00.00.1985
FFA A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.00.1986
P.Thomas, C.Horsfield 00.00.1972
M.Crocker, M.Ward, R.Thomas 26.04.1987
J.Kerry 00.00.1972
J.Kerry 00.00.1972
FFA A.Sharp, J.Harwood 20.08.1977
J.Kerry 00.00.1972
FFA A.Sharp 17.04.1979
M.Crocker, R.Thomas 30.10.1988
J.Kerry 00.00.1972
P.Thomas, C.Horsfield 00.00.1974
P.Thomas, J.Harwood 17.05.1987
M.Crocker, R.Thomas 00.00.1988
P.Littlejohn, J.Mothersele 20.06.1977
R.Thomas 00.08.1999
P.Thomas, C.Horsfield 00.00.1974
FFA A.Sharp, J.Harwood 20.08.1977
C.Heard, R.Heard A1 00.00.1976
FFA A.Sharp, J.Harwood 14.09.1977
J.Kerry, C.Horsfield 00.00.1972
S.Robinson F.Lunnon AL 18.04.1979 - 10.08.1980
L.Ainsworth, etc. - P2-P7 00.00.1974
P.Thomas, C.Horsfield - All 00.00.1974

FOOLS FANTASY AREA

An area of hard routes but ending at the popular corner of Pluto VS. A good search of the ledges above will reveal good belays for most routes.

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Fools Fantasy Area

To the right of Leprechaun, after a featureless undercut wall is a cave recess, with a large roof running over its back wall. The first route is based around the left arete of the recess.

Oedipus 18m E3,6b
Gymnastic. Climb the left side of the blunt arete right of Leprechaun to bulges, then move up right and back left to gain a ledge above the roof. Move onto the face above and finish.
Astrobrain 18m E6,6b *
Start just right of Oedipus. Climb steeply up right to a crack and into a pod. Traverse right to a block then up right again until a few moves lead to a PR. Bold moves up and left lead to an exit.
Fools Fantasy 33m E5,6a **
A spectacularly awkward pitch which follows the lip of the cave. Climb a groove left of the cave to the first roof. Traverse rightwards around this and continue to beneath the main overhangs. Traverse right to pull round the right end of the roof finishing up a groove. The pegs are little more than rust, but good gear can still be placed. Hint: three ropes to start might relieve the drag, if one is dropped above the first lip.
Wipeout 27m E4,5c
A strenuous and greasy route. Climb the left-hand of the two overhanging grooves right of Fools' Fantasy, past a bulge, until it is possible to swing right and finish up a short wall. Gear is good but exceedingly awkward to place.
Right Little Raver 27m E5,6a *
Good wall climbing between Wipeout and Nyth. Climb on good holds to a nut where the face is smoother and steeper. Continue to a flat greasy hold, then move up left to good nuts in a thin flake. Make a hard move up to gain the obvious crack out right, then traverse left into Wipeout to finish.
Nyth 27m E3,6a *
The right-hand of the overhanging grooves right of Fools Fantasy. Climb the wall, keeping left of the crack, until level with the base of the groove. Climb the groove to the top.
Disneyworld 27m E6,6c
Climb the wall underneath the roof stack left of Pluto. At the roof, swing right onto the wall of Pluto, TRs. Step round left and make problematic moves over the roof, then continue up the wall above, 2 PRs.
Pluto 27m VS,4c ***
A good line through some spectacular terrain, a must for any aspiring Ogmore leader. Climb the v-chimney 2m right of Nyth. Swing left near the top, to finish up the arete. It is also possible to finish direct at a slightly harder grade.

First Ascents

P.Littlejohn, A.Sharp 25.05.1978
P.Littlejohn, R.Thomas 00.07.1986
P.Thomas, C.Horsfield 00.00.1974
FFA P.Littlejohn 06.07.1977
P.Thomas, C.Horsfield 00.00.1974
FFA P.Littlejohn, J.Mothersele 07.05.1977
P.Littlejohn, M.Moran 29.04.1984
P.Thomas, J.Harwood 1pt 18.06.1975
FFA P.Littlejohn, J.Mothersele 19.05.1977
M.Crocker, R.Thomas 00.00.1990
C.Horsfield, P.Thomas 00.00.1972

ELEPHANT WALL AREA

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Oliver Burrows on Pinocchio VS

This is the rather featureless pale wall forming the right side of the 'Popular End' bay. Pinocchio takes the left side of it. The following routes from Easy Livin' to Elephant Wall may be climbed when the tide is quite high, by abseiling to a small ledge below a fine wall split by two horizontal breaks. There is an abseil point at the top (A5). Large Friends are useful and above the second break the rock should be treated with some care. The wall is sunny in the evenings and usually free of seepage.

Easy Livin 36m E3,5c **
A fine climb with a bold start and a tricky middle section. Start in the middle of the ledge and climb up a groove. Step left and move left into a groove leading to the first horizontal break. Pull around the left side of an overlap and climb the steep wall to the second, more friable, break. Finish direct.
Wave Band 36m E2,5b *
Start below the faint cracks in the smooth steep rock right of Easy Livin. Climb easily to the ledges below the smooth steep rock. From their right side climb directly up the smooth wall crossing two breaks to reach a short crack leading to the top.
Slime Crime 36m HVS,5a
As for Wave Band to the ledges. Follow a short corner on the right side of the face to a horizontal break, pull into the hanging corner and continue directly to the top.
Elephant Wall 35m VS,4b *
Start as for Wave Band to the ledges. Step right and climb the knobbly wall to the horizontal break and a possible stance. Step up and right at the break and climb a short groove and steep wall above.

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Pitch 2 of Exposure Explosion (approximately where it crosses Wave Band E2). Photograph: Alistair McNicol

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John Bullock on Easy Livin E3......(courtesy of Guy Maddox)

First Ascents

P.Littlejohn, J.Mothersele 23.06.1977
P.Littlejohn, J.Harwood 26.10.1977
J.Harwood, M.Rhodes 17.02.1980
P.Watkin 00.00.1972

TUSKER CHIMNEY AREA

The next routes are round the right arete of Elephant Wall, in a recessed bay. The Wet Look Cave high up on the left proves the most troublesome part of the Exposure Explosion traverse due to its damp and dark position.

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Nigel Lewis on Flash Harry HS

The next routes are round the right arete of Elephant Wall, in a recessed bay.

Mind Probe 33m E2,5b *
Strenuous and bold at the start. Climb the chimney 8m right of Elephant Wall and just left of an arete for 5m. Move left to a diagonal crack in the arete. Climb the crack then traverse left into a groove on the front of Elephant Wall and continue to the horizontal break. Finish up the groove in the arete.
Wet Probe 33m E3,5c *
As for Mind Probe, but continue straight up from the diagonal crack.
Wet Look 33m HVS,4c,4c *
This gains the wet cave high up on the crag.
1. 15m Climb the bulging wall below the left side of the cave to gain the cave.
2. 18m Traverse left on small holds to reach good horizontal cracks, used to gain and climb a chimney.
  
  2m right is a square-cut chimney taken by Tusker Chimney and a prominent black prow taken by Domestic Bliss.
Tusker Chimney 33m HVS,5a,5b **
A route of character, with two contrasting pitches. Start below the square-cut chimney in the right part of the bay.
1. 22m Climb the leftward-slanting crack and square-cut chimney to a roof. Step left onto a small slab and traverse right under the roof, then move up to a belay ledge.
2. 11m Climb easily up and right, then take a steep wall to a crescent shaped overhang. Make a hard traverse right, then finish up a groove.
Flyover 36m E3,5c,5b **
Fine positions on the exposed top pitch. Start 2m right of Tusker Chimney.
1. 18m Climb a capped groove until a traverse left can be made, passing the remains of a PR, to a good hold. Take the edge above then move right to belay as for Tusker Chimney.
2. 18m Pull up the wall to reach a leftwards traverse above the lip of the cave and beneath a small roof. Follow this to a crack splitting the roof, leading to a ledge and easier ground.
Domestic Bliss 30m E1,5b,5a
1. 18m Up the groove as for Flyover, but swing right onto a prow. Climb up a rib to the Tusker Chimney belay.
2. 12m Climb the steep wall left of Tusker Chimney. Trend back right after overcoming the bulge.
Domestic Responsibility 30m E2,5a,5c *
1. 18m Start on the right side of the black prow right of Flyover. Step onto a crinkly wall and move up left to good holds on an arete. Pull round left at a horizontal crack and move up to belay as for Tusker Chimney.
2. 12m Move up and right below the finish of Tusker Chimney. Make a long reach for a hidden jug and finish steeply up the wall above.
Tusker Right Hand 33m MVS,5b
Climb the chimney and crack 6m right of Tusker Chimney to the horizontal break, then climb directly up the wall 1m left of an obvious crack (Flash Harry).
Flash Harry 24m HS,4a **
The best route of its grade at Ogmore, taking a proud buttress 13m right of Tusker Chimney. Climb via a groove to an obvious crack 1Â½m right of Tusker Right Hand, thence to the top.
Yorkshire Pud 24m S
A slight variant on Tim's Route. Follow the easiest line up the cracked arete right of Flash Harry.
Tim's Route 24m VD
Start just left of the obvious corner on the right side of the bay and follow the easiest line up the right-hand side of the grooved arete.
Mordred 24m HVS,4c
The obvious corner right of Tim's Route and 9m right of Flash Harry on the left side of a seaward-facing buttress.

First Ascents

A.Sharp, P.Thomas 00.00.1972
B.Brewer, A.McCarthy 08.07.1999
P.Thomas, C.Horsfield 00.00.1971
C.Horsfield, P.Thomas 00.00.1972
R.Thomas, G.Royle 00.05.1986
M.Learoyd, R.Thomas, G.Royle 00.00.1984
G.Lewis, C.Hurley 00.00.1983
C.Horsfield 00.00.1972
P.Thomas 00.00.1972
M.Rhodes, J.Harwood 20.01.1980
J.Mothersele 00.00.1972
B.Davies 00.00.1972

SCUTCH BUTTRESS

This is the pillar just right of Mordred.An excellent ledge at the top with belays allows easy access to Flash Harry etc,bags fairly safe here. The toe of the buttress is difficult to pass except at very low tides,there are no easy ways to escape Tiger Bay.

Scutch Buttress

The Dribbling Douh What 24m HVS,4c
Climb the arete right of Mordred. Poorly protected.
Scutch 27m HVS,5b
Climb front of the buttress to a steep crinkly wall. Move left to its centre and gain the horizontal break with difficulty. Continue carefully to the top.
Cold Front 27m HVS,5b
As for Scutch, but keep to the right side of the face. Step onto the arete 3m below the horizontal break and climb a groove above the break to finish.

First Ascents

P.Thomas, A.Sharp 00.00.1975
P.Thomas, J.Harwood 12.06.1974
M.Learoyd, R.Thomas, H.Griffiths 00.00.1984

TIGER BAY

A very careful pre-climb search will reveal various discrete belays but no decent stakes. Right of Scutch Buttress is the start of the huge Tiger Bay area. The prominent chimney bounding the left side wall is Siren Direct. To the right of the large cave of Siren is a wall of steep compact rock, Sorcery Wall. The crag makes a long sweep into a recessed bay, before moving out seaward as Fire Wall. Running between Scutch Butress and Siren direct is the left retaining wall of the bay, which is split by an obvious diagonal chimney ramp, Siren Direct.

Tiger Bay

Left Wall

The prominent chimney bounding the left side wall is Siren Direct

Quick Draw 27m E4,6a **
Start at the toe of the arete right of Cold Front on its right-hand side. Climb to a deep crack and follow the curving line rightwards, TR, to join the sloping ramp/chimney of Siren. Hard moves up and left, PR, gain a small ledge. From here climb a groove to a PR, move out left onto the main open face, TR, pull over a small overhang and continue to the top.
Hired Gun 27m E4,6a *
A sustained pitch. Start at the ramp of Siren and climb a green crack to broken blocks below the overhang (directly up from where Quick Draw swings left). Swing left over an overhang and continue to the top.
Siren 33m HVS,5a *
This follows a rampline in a chimney running up towards the top of the Siren Direct chimney. Gain the ramp from the left and follow it until it narrows (or from below at dead low tide). Make blind moves right and climb the chimney/corner to finish. Intimidating for the grade.
Fair Exchange 30m E3,6a
An obvious horizontal crack runs from Siren to the flake crack in the left side wall of the chimney of Siren Direct. Gain this crack from Siren and follow it to the jagged flake crack. Climb it, TRs, to join the chimney of Siren Direct.
Siren Direct 21m VS,4c
Start on the right of the cave and climb the overhanging, narrowing chimney to join Siren.

Traverses Of Tiger Bay
Total Eclipse Of The Sun 200m E8 6b ***
A momentous traverse of Tiger Bay, graded from the deep water solo. The grade for a conventional ascent is unknown. Soloing applicants will need to study the drop-out zones at low tide and reserve any serious attempts to times when sea, weather, and tidal conditions come together in an optimal state. This is a spring tide, but one low enough to allow the crossing to Sorcery to be made. The climbing is very sustained, and involves three contrasting crux sections, 8-12m above the sea, with as little as 3m of water below. Elsewhere, sea depth rarely exceeds 5m. Despite the lack of water, chalk bag protection is required, which has allegedly been supplied by a pair of £4.99 water wings. The route is described in sections for convenience although it was soloed right through on the only ascent to date. These would be possible belays for a conventional ascent.
1. Reverse Siren to ledges near the bottom of the scoop. Cut loose rightwards across the hand-traverse of Fair Exchange to get into the chimney. Step right onto Mantra and make a 6a traverse right and down slightly to the projecting ledge on Sorcery.
2. Move up and swing right onto the ramp of Spellbinder. Follow this to the wide slot after 7m. Move right along the lip of the large roof passing a 6b crux to easier ground on Zardoz. Move up and continue right beneath a roof (as for Daughter of Regals P2), until good holds lead over the bulge and rightwards to a rest on a slight rib (escape onto A Bigger Splash possible).
3. Drop down 2m to the start of a spectacular undercut hand traverse moving across a corner above Warlock. Make increasingly difficult moves to swing around onto a sit-down ledge on the arete past a second 6b crux and gain the stance of Warlock.
4. Reverse a slab diagonally rightwards for 10m to a corner that bounds the left side of the back wall of the cave. Traverse the back-wall at half-height, then use a projecting plate to gain good ledges on the right arete of the back wall (5c). Traverse right to the top of a cleft at the back of the cave.
5. Traverse right beneath the roof to a blank-out. Summon up finger-power and make a hard, greasy 6b move to jugs and a shake-out on the edge of a descending ramp. Reverse the ramp, shedding height reassuringly quickly and gain a rest on a projecting ledge just above the high water mark. Work rightwards, pleasantly low, across Fury, to the line of holds on Fire.
6. Climb Fire to a good hand-ledge above its crux (5c). Make a short hand-traverse right into the broken crack of Brimstone, and follow it carefully to the top.
7. Reverse steeply up the grass banking, turn right and go to the pub.
A Bigger Splash 73m E3,5c,5b ***
An excellent, sustained girdle from left to right. Start from the chimney of Siren and finish above the huge sea cave above Tiger Sanction. Muscles are needed on the P1 and a cool head on P2. Start 9m down the chimney of Siren Direct.
1. 45m Traversing right along a line of weakness 2m lower than the final pitch of Exposure Explosion. Move right around the arete and climb strenuously until the angle eases (possible belay and escape). Climb up and right and continue the traverse to a projecting ledge on the arete.
2. 27m Traverse into a corner formed by the back of the zawn. Climb up and traverse right along the lip of the huge roof until it is possible to climb up for 3m to a line of flat holds. Step right to a crack and climb this and the break above to finish. Stake belay well back.

First Ascents

R.Thomas, J.Bullock 04.05.1987
M.Learoyd, G.Royle 00.00.1984
Unknown Pre-1975
FFA A.Sharp, O.Jones 00.00.1986
R.Thomas, John Bullock 1pt 00.00.1984
M.Learoyd, H.Griffiths Pre-1983
M.Crocker solo 10.8.1999
P.Littlejohn solo - P1 04.07.1977
P.Littlejohn, A.Sharp, S.Lewis 01.10.1977

Sorcery Wall

This is the wall running across the back of Tiger Bay, bounded on its right by Fire Wall. The first obvious feature is the groove above a prominent shelf, Sorcery itself. The first route is just right of the chimney of Siren Direct.

Mantra 36m E5,6a **
Takes a strenuous and intimidating line up the left of the wall immediately right of Siren Direct. Climb the right hand side of a rib on the right edge of the cave to a small slot. Pull right round the bulge to some small ledges, then climb boldly diagonally rightwards to good holds in a horizontal break. Continue direct to the Bigger Splash break, then follow a thin continuation crack to the top.
The Enchanted 36m E5,6a *
Currently done as a deep water solo since it has no gear. Traverse 2m right from the small foot-ledges on Mantra and power up a small green corner. Finish direct to gain the break of A Bigger Splash.
The Uncanny Direct 36m E6,6c ***
Start below an initial leaning wall 4m right of Mantra, down and left of the projecting shelf of Sorcery. Climb easily to a recess at 3m, possible belay, then cross bulges, PR, TR, to a ledge then an overlap on the arete, PR. Pull over the overlap and static up right to a good hold. Another hard move gains The Bigger Splash break, from where a direct line up the thin crack, left of a shallow scoop in the headwall, leads to the top.
The Uncanny 36m E6,6c **
The orignal line, gaining the overlap from the shelf of Sorcery. Bolder than the direct version.
Buzzarena 40m E6,6c **
From the projecting ledge of Sorcery, make one move up, then span left for a finger hold. Up the arete on improving holds to the the break of A Bigger Splash. Graded for a deep water solo, gaining the Sorcery shelf by traversing in along the footledges from Mantra. The grade for a conventional ascent is unknown.
Sorcery 36m E6,6b **
A committing climb taking a shallow overhanging groove 9m right of Siren, possibly the first E6 of this type in Britain. Gain the projecting ledge at 7m via an akward flake groove. Climb up right to the bold groove. Move up this until it is possible to move right and up to gain a horizontal break (A Bigger Splash). Traverse left for 3m then go directly through the overhangs via a groove to the top.
Spellbinder 45m E4,6a ***
A superbly sustained climb through spectacular territory, giving one of the best E4s in Brtiain. The boldness of the start can be reduced with small wires and patience. Start right of Sorcery at a vague corner beneath the rightward-rising ramp line. Climb to a big slot and good thread, then traverse up and right, crux, to gain a smaller slot. From the right end of the slot, climb straight up to reach the horizontal break of Bigger Splash. Continue directly over the overhang and steep wall above to a groove by a detached block. From ledges finish up the arete of the large corner on the right, or walk off left.
Flying Wizard 42m E5,6a **
As for Spellbinder to below the widest part of the roofs. Break out left over the roofs and climb steeply to the top.
Worn Out Superman 30m E6,6b ***
Staggering. Start 4m right of Spellbinder, under an overhanging scoop. Go up the scoop, swing rightwards along a break and over a small roof, 2TRs, to gain the Spellbinder ramp. Step right and from a short crack go through the bulge above, PR, to reach Bigger Splash. Break through the ceiling above via a notch, PR. Trend leftwards then rightwards up the committing headwall to the top. At the time of writing (2003) the threads are missing.
Zardoz 45m E5,6b,5c **
Bold. Start beneath the broad white wall to the right of Spellbinder, just to the right of a roof.
1. 24m Climb to ledges beneath the roof. Move right to gain a small sloping ledge then make devious moves leftwards over a bulge to gain a shallow groove, leading to good holds beneath the next set of overhangs. Break left, then go straight up to a small hanging stance where the angle eases (on A Bigger Splash).
2. 21m Climb rightwards to a line of overhangs and traverse right to stand on the obvious projecting strata. Climb straight up the compact upper wall for 4m before bearing slightly right to the top.
Daughter of Regals 45m E5,6b,6a ***
1. 27m As for Zardoz until after the groove below the second roof, then traverse right for 3m to a narrowing and pull over to a ledge and a hanging stance.
2. 18m Climb the 2m roof above the stance slightly right of the belay, to a good break. Trend right to an arete andfinish via a thin crack on its left side.
Totality 25m E6 6b ***
Totally inspiring climbing up the line of cracks and the roofed corner right of Daughter Of Regals and left of Warlock. Strenuous with protection hard to get and place. Start on the right-hand side of an inlet in the wave-cut platform immediately left of Warlock. Swing left above the inlet and gain and stand up on a finger-jug up to the left, bold. Pull up to a rest in a corner at the foot of the crack system. Pass the roof and off-width above with difficulty to power up bulging rock to jugs in a niche below another roof. Extend past a TR to a final roof, PR. A final strenuous move gains a jug-line above. Swing left and follow easier rock for 5m to a good belay ledge. Escape up Warlock P2 to the right.
Warlock 51m E6,6b,5b ***
Magnificent, although the gear is totally rotten and badly in need of replacement. Start 6m right of Zardoz from a narrow platform, just left of the huge cave and on the right side of a narrow rift.
1. 24m Climb the bulging wall TR, and groove, PRs, to below the roof. Traverse right along a narrow wall until a series of hard moves up right gains a jug on the hanging arete, PRs. Climb a short corner to a good stance.
2. 27m Traverse spectacularly left to a thin crack and follow this and an easy groove to a projecting ledge on the right. Finish up a wide crack.

The final manifestation of the back wall of Tiger Bay is a huge cave with a steeply undercut base. Tereus and The Tiger Sanction gain this wall by coming in from the right.

Tereus 51m E6,6a,6b,5b **
Start just outside the mouth of the cave at its right-hand side.
1. 21m Climb easily leftwards to a bay. Continue left to a break below bulging rock and swing left into a bottomless groove on small holds. Climb the groove for 2m and traverse left to a crack leading to the Total Eclipse break. Traverse left to belay on a small stance on the arete.
2. 18m Move up to the base of the hanging back wall. Trend left to pass a roof and gain a wide break. Mantle awkwardly onto a projecting block in another break, PR and gain a hanging groove on the right. Follow the groove to the right-hand end of the balanced block on Tiger Sanction. Tiptoe left along this and pull left to a belay on the foot ledge at the base of the headwall.
3. 12m Finish as for A Bigger Splash P2.
The Tiger Sanction 57m E5,6a,5c *
The original daunting expedition into the cave at the back of Tiger Bay. Start on its right side 6m left of the corner of Fury
1. 33m Climb up to a leftwards pointing block ledge, step right then climb the wall to a TR below the roofs. Move left, pull over the roof and swing left round a rib. Traverse left, low at first, PR, then at a slightly higher level to a projecting shattered rib just right of the huge crack line, PB. Place a high runner to protect the second.
2. 30m Pull up left then traverse left on biscuits to a short bottomless groove. Up the groove, then step left onto a balanced block and pull over the roof onto the headwall. Climb the headwall stepping left to exit at a short crack.

First Ascents

M.Crocker, M.Ward 01.06.1985
M.Crocker solo 10.08.99
P.Oxley 14.05.1988
M.Crocker, M.Ward 16.06.1985
M.Crocker solo 10.08.1999
P.Littlejohn, S.Robinson 25.07.1979
P.Littlejohn, A.Sharp 29.09.1977
P.Littlejohn, T.Penning 15.07.1983
M.Crocker, R.Thomas 20.10.1990
P.Littlejohn, A.Richardson 14.04.1982
M.Crocker, M.Ward 30.06.1985
M.Crocker, E.Travers-Jones 14 .08.1999
R.Thomas, C.Parkin 06.01.1985
FFA M.Crocker, M.Ward 31.08.1985
D.Pickford, M.Crocker AL 20.05.2001
M.Crocker, G.Gibson 25.08.1985

Fire Wall

Spring Tide

The obvious right-hand wall of Tiger Bay. Containing Fire E3 and Burn 'Em Up E5. Good new belays in place above this wall if you search them out.

Fury 30m E3,5c *
In the centre of Fire wall is an obvious arched recess. Climb the left corner of the recess then move up and pull leftwards round an overlap to a ledge. Climb the compact wall and continue carefully up the cheese band to a small ledge. Step right then climb straight up on good holds.
Burn 'Em Up 33m E5,6b ***
A brilliant pitch up the centre of Fire Wall, good rock and protection. Follow Fury to ledges below the first roof, swing right onto the wall and climb a thin crack, then move right to and through the second roof. Climb directly up the centre of a convex overlap (crux), to gain a PR and the cheese band. Finish direct.
Fire 30m E3,5c **
RPs at the start and friends in the middle section have removed much of the bite of this fine pitch. Climb a vague crack 6m from the right edge of Fire Wall to a roof, over this then up the wall above to smooth rock and a rest. Climb conglomerate holds to regain good rock, a thin crack and the top.
Deep Fry 36m E5,6b
A direct start to Brimstone. Unrepeated since the loss of the crucial PR. Start 2m right of Fire. Climb a groove to where it starts to overhang. More difficult climbing past the remains of a PR, leads to good holds enabling the crack of Brimstone to be gained. Finish up Brimstone.
Brimstone 30m E1,5a *
This climb gains the shattered crack on the right edge of Fire Wall via a traverse from the corner round to the right. Climb the left wall of the corner to a crack 2m right of the arete, move up to good holds and traverse strenuously left around the arete to the base of the crack. Climb it.

The route The Kickenside (E1,5b S.Lewis, J.Harwood 1978) has been superceded by others. It linked up the start of The Knave with the finish of Well Blessed.
The Knave 27m E3,5c
Climb the arete between Brimstone and The Bishop to meet the hand traverse of Brimstone. Hard moves up right lead to a groove. Up this, then left to large holds right of Brimstone. Finish direct.
Well Blessed 27m E2,5b
Climb the easier lower section of The Bishop, until it is possible to move left to horizontal holds below a small pod. Move past the pod and climb the right-hand groove up to the overhangs. Move through these carefully to the top.
The Bishop 27m HVS,4c,4b *
On the right side of the bay is a large, protruding buttress. The climb takes the chimney and cave on its left.
1. 13m Climb easily to the cave, bridge up this, pull over the roof to gain a small, square chimney and belay.
2. 14m Traverse right to the arete and continue up a groove taking care near the top.
Cone Country 27m HVS,5a *
Climb the middle of the wall right of The Bishop to the overhang, traverse 1m right and pull over just left of the arete. Continue up the groove as for The Bishop.
Bute Street 30m E3,5b
The left side of the seaward face of the buttress to an overhang. Step right to the centre of the face, over the overhang on friable holds and up for 3m. Traverse left to join the groove of The Bishop.

The buttress now returns in a high wall to the obvious corner crack of Poseidon.
Spring Tide 27m E2,5b **
Climb just right of the left edge of the wall until a band of high horizontal cracks is reached. Pull over these until a final smoother wall leads to the top.

Spring Tide and Low Ebb can be joined up by a hand traverse - Beyond Poseidon (E2,5b R.Thomas, G.Royle 1984).
Low Ebb 30m E3,5c **
Excellent, sustained climbing with the crux at the top. Climb the finger crack a metre or two left of Poseidon, then move onto steep horizontal strata. Follow these directly up the centre of the face to the bottom of a smooth steep headwall. Up this to finish.
Poseidon 27m HVS,5a *
Follows the obvious corner crack. Climb the initial groove and step left into the corner. Follow this gingerly over a small overhang to a larger one. Traverse right to a ledge and continue to the top.
Poseidon Direct Finish 12m E1,5a
From the overhang on Poseidon continue straight up the corner and exit with great care.

First Ascents

P.Littlejohn, C.Heard 00.00.1983
M.Crocker, R.Thomas 21.07.1985
P.Littlejohn, J.Mothersele 18.05.1977
M.Crocker, M.Ward 26.04.1986
P.Littlejohn, J.Mothersele 00.03.1977
M.Learoyd, R.Thomas 00.00.1985
R.Thomas, G.Royle 00.00.1984
C.Horsfield, P.Thomas A0 00.00.1972
FFA P.Thomas, A.Sharp 00.00.1975
P.Lewis, J.Harwood 03.07.1980
P.Watkin, P.Thomas 00.00.1971
FFA P.Littlejohn, J.Harwood 11.12.1977
R.Thomas, G.Davies 00.00.1984
R.Thomas, J.Bullock 00.00.1984
P.Thomas, J.Mothersele 00.00.1972
R.Thomas, R.Haslum 00.00.1983

Bute Street Buttress

Around the corner from Fire Wall is a proud square buttress with a high but tidal platform around it and relatively solid finishes. The routes here provide an escape if trapped between Scutch Buttress and Davey Jones Locker on a fast rising tide. Good belays in place or share with the Fire Wall

THE CASTLE AREA

There is now a broad sweep of crag continuing to a small sea stack (The Castle). The bottom part of the crag is mostly good rock but care should be taken with all the exits, which are on rubble. A generally disappointing area which along with the nearby BISCUIT ROCK has Ogmore's highest proportion of strangely unfashionable "adventure routes".Scarce on belays the easiest to find being "monster stakes above the Castle

The Castle Area

Scorcher 30m E3,6a
Start 3m right of Poseidon at a crack. Climb direct for 6m, move right to a runner slot, step up right and climb to the overhangs. Pass these via a thin crack. Continue for 3m, then move right and up to a corner at an overhang. Turn it on the left to a final crack and the top.
Dracula 42m E2,5c,5b,4b *
A good route, but ensure that P3 is your mate's lead. Start below a pod like recess right of the large cave.
1. 9m Climb to the recess, then out of it, before making a hard traverse left to reach a stance above the roof.
2. 21m Move left and reach a hanging groove/crack, which cuts through the roof. Up this strenuously to better holds. Continue until able to move right to the middle of a long ledge.
3. 12m Traverse left and pull into the obvious groove/chimney leading to the top.
Son of Dracula 35m E4,6a,5a *
1. 21m Climb into the recess as for Dracula. Move out right onto the face and climb the wall and shallow overhanging grooves leading through the overhang on the left to a ledge. Belay just above.
2. 14m Traverse right for 3m then climb up left above an overhang, finishing up the slab.
Blood Lust 36m E4,6b,4c *
1. 24m Climb the wall just right of Dracula, trending left at the top, to a break. Move up and right into a groove, PR. Follow this and the wall above the roofs, moving left to ledges and a belay.
2. 12m Climb a crack and groove to the top.
Dog Day Afternoon 39m E1,5b,4b
A fine first pitch, steep and interesting. Start 4m right of Dracula and 13m right of the corner of Poseidon below a rightward-slanting line.
1. 27m Climb to a horizontal crack at the base of some smoother rock. Move up rightwards to a white niche, follow the groove above and finish rightwards taking care with some holds.
2. 12m Climb the corner crack on the left to the top.
Flying Fortress 39m E1,5b,4c
1. 24m As for Dog Day Afternoon to the white niche. Climb up rightwards to a corner, then right onto the arete. Continue up a loose groove to belay on the left of a large ledge.
2. 15m Climb the slab just right of the arete for 6m, move left and climb a groove to the final overhang, which is turned on the left.
Keep Smiling 39m E2,4b,5b,5c
This crosses Dog Day Afternoon on a counter diagonal line. Start beneath a large cave at 7m.
1. 7m Climb to the cave.
2. 21m Traverse to the arete and move up to a small cave. Traverse left for 6m past a groove (Dog Day Afternoon) to reach a crack leading to a huge detached flake overhang. Climb diagonally leftwards from the flake overhang to a stance, TR.
3. 11m Climb to the final large roof and surmount it via the widest and most central crack.
Wounded Knee 42m E3,5b,4c
Strenuous and committing climbing weaving through the overhangs left of Stronghold. Start 3m left of the overhung cave, 12m left of the arete opposite The Castle stack.
1. 27m Climb the wall on good holds, then traverse right below the overhangs to the crack rising from the cave. From its top gain the arete and climb direct through the overhangs to reach a crack leading to ledges. Belay as for Stronghold, on the largest ledge to the left.
2. 15m As for Flying Fortress.
Stronghold 42m HVS,5a,4c
Start 4m left of the arete opposite The Castle stack at a leaning wall of conglomerate rock that gives surprisingly solid climbing.
1. 27m Climb up and left to some conspicuous slots. Continue up for 3m then go diagonally left to reach an area of ledges.
2. 15m As for Flying Fortress.
The Castle 44m VS,4b,4b
Start opposite The Castle stack, at a boulder below obvious grooves in the upper wall.
1. 22m Climb to a flat ledge, continue up right, then left to another ledge. Take care with the rock.
2. 21m Climb a groove and pull over a bulge to a ledge. Follow another groove for 3m to a chockstone, then traverse left to another groove. Climb this to an earthy groove and finish up the crack on the left.
Western Shout Out 39m HVS,4c,5a
Loose and poor. It takes the lower arete and left-hand crack high on the wall.
1. 16m Climb the arete on the left to an overhanging cleft. Take this on the right to a flat ledge.
2. 22m From the ledge move left following a broken crack and smaller ledges to a larger one (escape possible leftwards). Move up a thin crack in a short steep wall, making an awkward mantleshelf on the right. Follow the dirty crack in the wall to a large niche, to exit carefully past the overhang.
Weakhold 45m HVS,5a
A wandering right to left girdle. Climb the arete opposite the Castle for 10m, traverse left into a bay and finish up The Castle.

First Ascents

P.Littlejohn, C.Heard 09.07.1983
P.Thomas, C.Horsfield 00.00.1974
FFA P.Littlejohn, Ward-Tetley 05.04.1977
P.Littlejohn, J.Mothersele 18.05.1977
M.Crocker, R.Thomas 21.07.1985
P.Littlejohn, J.Mothersele AL 06.03.1977
S.Massey, S.Bartlett 06.04.1979
D.Cuthbertson, P.Littlejohn 15.02.1981
P.Littlejohn, J.Mothersele 24.04.1977
P.Littlejohn, J.Mothersele AL 13.03.1977
J.Kerry, C.Horsfield 00.00.1972
S.Robinson, F.Lunnon 24.03.1979
G.Lewis, etc 00.00.1984

THE BISCUIT

File:Cream biscuit-t.jpg

700px

Roy Thomas on Cream Crackers. Photo by Carl Ryan.

The next bay is composed of horizontal strata of brittle yellow rock, the Ogmore biscuit variety. The climbing is exposed, frightening and topping out generally leaves people shaking. Well worthwhile and more deserving of the accolade of adventure climbing than anything at Linney Head. The area is bounded on the left by the spectacularly obvious arete of Cream Crackers. Routes can be reached by abseil at higher states of the tide but you must be confident of success or face an embarrassingly damp debacle. Stakes above the arete of Cream Crackers, sketchy elsewhere except above Mother Earth.

Wafer Thin E2 5b
Takes the left side of the arete stepping off the rocking block is stimulating,located opposite the offshore Castle.39m. R.Thomas ,Eugene Jones.
Cream Crackers E5 5c **
Climb the left side of the arete(alarmingly) to large ledges.The same point can be reached by taking the crack(thread) on the R of the arete(harder but more secure).Launch up the dusty wall to gain the arete proper("peg runners")Top out at a rock bay,large stake well back.42m.R. Thomas ,John Bullock ,Graham Royle.
Short Dread 42m E5,5a,5c **
1. 21m Climb the crack on the right side of the arete to a belay ledge.
2. 21m Continue up P2 of Cream Crackers.
Information Recieved E4 5c **
A true biscuit route.
1. 21m As for Wafer Thin or Short Dread P1.
2. 21m Climb easily to a ledge. Swing up horizontal bands, TR, to pull around to the right side of an arete. Climb a short wall to beneath a small overhang, PR, up the crack on the right, PR, then back left, PR, to a scab of rock, PR. Climb just right of the arete, PR, then up the actual arete to the top.
Takes The Biscuit 45m E4,5c *
A strenuous and demanding route right of Information Received. Start 3m right of the arete by a large boulder with a chimney above. Climb the chimney until it is possible to move left onto the wall, TR. Continue up the wall, PR, to gain the horizontal break, PRs, possible belay. Move left to gain a steep crack, follow this, PR, TR, to more horizontal bands. Move right, PR, to reach a continuation crack which is followed past 3TRs, to the top.
Here Today 45m E3,5b,5b
The chimney, yellow slab and steep headwall right of Takes The Biscuit. Start at a green cave.
1. 15m Climb out of the cave and go up the steep chimney, PR, to exit left to a ledge. PB.
2. 30m Climb the slabby yellow wall, PR, to finish up a steep crack.
Mother Earth 45m E2,5a *
At the back of the bay is an earthy chimney providing the longest, most entertaining chimney pitch in South East Wales. Start left of the chimney and climb conglomerate rock until it is possible to step right into the chimney. Follow it past numerous threaded chockstones until an escape can be made rightwards just below the top to avoid the final mud slopes.

The next routes are on the large concave wall right of the earthy chimney. Several stakes are in position above the yellow wall and Quimble (A10).
Sleepless Nights 39m E4,5c *

A route of character approached easily by abseil at all but the highest tides. Friends are useful in the upper section. Start 10m right of Mother Earth. Climb the conglomerate pile then traverse left onto the wall above, PR. Climb this to easier angled rock, 3PRs, TR. Follow the upper wall just left of a shallow niche, PR, then continue up a disjointed crack, poor TR, over several bulges. Belay below the top on the abseil rope.
Best Of Friends 39m E2,5a
Technically easy but serious. Large Friends are useful. Start 3m right of Sleepless Nights at a pile of conglomerate rock. Climb the rubble to a large jammed boulder, then over a small roof and follow a faint crack to the easy angled section, PR. Move rightwards then climb the steep upper wall over several bulges to gain a crack just below the top, exit rightwards.
Floozie 42m XS,4b,4b
Looser than it looks! This takes the upper arete of the concave wall.
1. 21m Climb the rubble as for Best Of Friends and follow a rightward-rising traverse and a sharp broken corner, then move carefully rightwards to belay on the arete.
2. 21m Move right around the arete, following steep corners to the top.
  
  Further right is a high yellow wall with a block-strewn ledge at half-height. The finish to some routes is a steep earth bank and it is advisable to leave a rope in place. Brushing of the holds will be needed. The routes start from the large ledge which is best approached by abseil (A10).
Suspended Sentence 22m E4,5c
The left-hand crack in the wall. Start at the left side of the ledge. Climb a shattered crack to a smaller ledge, step right to the main crack 2TRs and up it to a small overhang, PR. Pull out right to finish.
No Reprieve 22m E3,5c
Start at the ledge, left of the right-hand crack. Climb a short wall to a ledge, move up left and follow a line of ledges to a leftward-rising flake traverse leading to a crack. Climb the final wall and crack, PR, TR. Belay on the rope.
Have Mercy 21m E4,6a
Climb the thin crack in the right side of the wall exiting to the right.
Quimble 30m VS,4b
Harrowment! The obvious line at the right side of this dubious section of cliff. Start below the prominent left-facing corner on the right side of the yellow wall. Climb to a niche, step left, move up to a ledge and climb the corner with little protection.

On the right side of the bay are the remains of several large sea caves. Huge rockfalls have destroyed the routes described in previous publications. The following remained at the time of writing (2003).
Towaway Zone 13m HVS,5a
Only P1 remains! It is possible to combine this with P2 of Motor Torpedo. Start on the left side of the first, smaller, cave. Climb a shallow groove and crack to a small roof then traverse right to a ledge.
Motor Torpedo 48m E4,6a,5b
A wild route breaking through the left side of the roofs of the largest cave. Start at the left side of the cave.
1. 27m Climb a short, sea washed wall, then a steeper compact wall rightwards to a small ledge in its centre. Move back left to some small ledges, PR. Traverse left along the lip of the roof to good jams, PR, up to a horizontal break, then move left to a good stance on a ledge.
2. 21m Traverse back right, avoiding the blocks, to a crack in the headwall. Climb it on good holds over a small roof. Trend left up the wall exiting directly.
Goodnight Cowboy 30m E2,5b
A line that has had three first ascents but only the last has stayed in place. Start at the sea-washed rocks between the caves or abseil into the cave. Climb smooth rock to gain a crack leading to the cave. Traverse left onto a very small ledge below a faint groove. Follow the groove to ledges then up a steep wall on incuts, PR, to gain a larger ledge. Take the groove above, 2PRs, until it is possible to escape with care up earthy ledges.

Right of the rock fall is the cave from which the now defunct route, AIDS (E3,5c, some rests, R.Thomas, G.Lewis 1984) existed. On the buttress that remains are the next routes.
Sub Sonar 27m E4,6a
Supersedes AIDS. Start at the shallow cave 5m left of Ultra Virus. Step onto a prow, and go through the roof on jugs, finishing as for Ultra Virus.
Ultra Virus 30m E4,6a **
Great climbing through the roofs. Climb easily to a ledge below the widest part of the roof. Overcome the roof on the right 2PRs, then climb direct up the overhanging wall, PR, to a ledge at its top. Step right and climb the final wall leftwards.
Last Buck 24m E1,5b
This takes a faint groove in the left side of the steep smooth white face to the right of Ultra Virus. Gain the groove easily and follow it strenuously to ledges. Finish direct.
Harmony 27m E1,5a *
Follow Last Buck to the base of the white face, then continue up the face a couple of metres right of Last Buck to a wide break. Continue up the steepening headwall to exit up a slight flake/groove.
Fast Buck 24m HVS,5a
Start on the left of the face almost below Last Buck. Climb easily rightwards until the wall steepens, continue right again to reach a detached block. Climb carefully to the top.
The Rock Block 25m E4,6a
The blunt arete left of Trusty Blade. From Trusty Blade, gain a groove in the arete move left and exit via the chimney of Trusty Blade.
A Foot In The Face 18m E3,5c
As for The Rock Block to the short overhanging groove. Using holds to the right pull up then left above the overhang to good holds. Finish up and right to gain the safer right-hand exit of Trusty Blade.
Trusty Blade 27m E2,5b
Start from the left edge of the cave on the right end of the wall. Climb up and onto the black prow, move steeply up to the base of a groove, PR. Follow the groove until it is possible to exit onto a ledge. Climb the loose chimney on the left.
Trust To Luck 25m E2,5b
A direct line up the right side of Fast Buck Wall. Start from the large rounded ledge, move up to a large overhang. Move round leftwards round this then take the brown streak to join the finish of Trusty Blade.
Rainbow For Rory 20m E6,6b ***
Climb easily up the right edge of the cave for 3m. Traverse left to a bottomless corner right of the roof stack at the back of the cave. Swing left across the lowest roof, overcome the next one then the third to grasp the highest handrail. Traverse left until a trick move at the end gains the finish of Trusty Blade. The route was done as a deep water solo and the grade for a conventional ascent is not known.

The routes from Trust The Grade to Happyrash have been done as deep water solos, so the grade at low water is unknown. They are described separately to the main text for this reason. Approach is by a bouncing abseil from two spikes (one very long) to arrive 2m left of the left-facing corner of Fast Luck. At high spring tide there should be about 6m of water below the base of the routes. Be careful with some of the blocky top outs and remember that there are strong undercurrents and sea caves at this crag.
Trust The Grade 15m E3,5b
Jump south in the event of a fall. Climb the right edge of the cave, swing right and over a bulge and zig-zag up the wall above.
Mindfuck 15m E5,5c ***
Traverse right from the ledge for 5m. Pull through a small overhang to a rest and follow left-facing flakes above. Swing right up bulging ground above.
Happyrash 15m E5,6a **
As for Mindfuck, but continue right for 2m to move up to the base of a small groove. Swing left, move up 2m, then span back right to gain positive flat holds through bulging ground to the top.

First Ascents

R.Thomas, G.Royle, M.Learoyd, J.Bullock 00.00.1986
R.Thomas, J.Bullock - lower section 06.09.1988
R.Thomas, M.Crocker 30.10.1988
R.Thomas, E.Travers-Jones 15.08.2000
R.Thomas, G.Royle, J.Bullock 00.00.1988
R.Thomas, J.Bullock 00.00.1989
R.Thomas, G.Royle 28.10.1987
R.Thomas, G.Royle, G.Davies 27.09.1987
G.Lewis, S.Robinson, F.Lunnon 06.07.1980
R.Thomas, G.Royle 00.05.1986
R.Thomas, J.Bullock, M.Learoyd 00.05.1986
M.Crocker, G.Gibson, M.Ward 25.08.1985
R.Crockett, M.Harber 30.03.1980
L.Foulkes, P.Lewis 00.00.1980
M.Crocker, R.Thomas AL 08.06.1986
J.Mothersele, J.Kerry 00.00.1974
A.Dance, A.Richardson 00.00.1984
R.Thomas, J.Bullock 00.00.1989#
M.Crocker, R.Thomas 14.11.1994
M.Crocker, R.Thomas 11.05.1986
C.Heard, R.Thomas 05.07.1980
M.Crocker, J. Harwood 23.09.2001
P.Littlejohn 03.07.1977
M.Crocker, R.Thomas 14.11.1993
M.Crocker 23.09.2001
R.Thomas, J.Bullock 00.00.1984
M.Crocker, R.Thomas 14.11.1993
M.Crocker solo 12.08.2003
M.Crocker solo 06.05.2001
M.Crocker solo 06.05.2001
M.Crocker solo 06.05.2001

DAVEY JONES' LOCKER AND THE SEA CAVES

Check out the position/state of the stakes buried in the grass above before proceeding. To the right is the huge, atmospheric, sandy-floored cave of Davy Jones Locker. At all but the lowest tides the point to the right (east) of this cave is impassable.

File:Daveyjones.jpg

Davey Jones' Locker

Fast Luck 27m E2,5b *
Start at the buttress 15m left of Davy Jones’ Locker, below an obvious corner high up. Climb up easily at first then move boldly over to gain the corner and follow this to the top.
Delirious 30m E6,4b,6b
A gruelling route still one of the most serious undertakings at Ogmore. Start on the left side of the cave housing Davy Jones’ Locker, left of a chimney.
1. 9m Climb the groove and rib to a good ledge.
2. 21m Pull into a short right groove and follow it strenuously to good spikes, then diagonally right to a large roof. A long reach, TR, leads to heel hooks along the lip and over it to a bulging wall. Finish straight up this.
No Fakin’ It 25m E7,6b **
Another last minute deep water solo addition, with an ambiguous description. Traverse right from an unspecified point into a right facinf corner. Above and right is a ceiling. Use a fingerjam in the corner to extend for a pocket way out right on the lip. Swing right to the ledge of Twenty First Century. Immediately left of a short overhung scoop and left of the end of the ledge use a finger pocket to get through the overhang and climb the overhanging wall to gain ledges about 2m left of Skullthuggery.
Twenty First Century 45m E5,5c,6a **
A tremendous route. Start just right of Delirious and left of a slanting chimney in the left retaining wall of the cave. An extra rope left at the top to back up the belay stakes would be wise.
1. 24m Climb a groove left of the chimney, swing left to a ledge at a break, climb steeply to a slot below a roof and pull over on jugs. Move up right, PR, and rightwards along a traverse line to a good stance on the edge of the cave.
2. 21m Traverse left at a higher level and climb a short groove, PR, over a roof on jugs and straight up the wall. Move out and out, passing a lot of very rusty PRs, until it is possible to pull over to easier ground and the top.
Skullthuggery 45m E6,6a,6b **
Start as for Davy Jones' Locker at low tide or abseil down Twenty First Century and clip its gear.
1. 24m Follow Davy Jones' Locker to the top of the corner, swing up left and walk to the stance of Twenty First Century.
2. 21m Cross the ceiling above the belay rightwards PR, to gain a ledge. Climb direct passing 2PRs, then when the good holds run out make fearsome moves to overcome the final roof, PR. Move leftwards, taking care with the loose rock on the easier finish.
Davy Jones' Locker 51m E7,6a,6b ***
Those who are widely travelled enough to have walked into the bowels of the great sea cave of Davy Jones' Locker will agree that the cave roof represents one of the most spectacular challenges in Britain, taking one of its biggest free roofs. Start from the rear left of the cave at low tide. Retreat is cut off within 3 hours, so timing is important to ensure that the second climber is battling his way across the final roof as the sea thunders into the back of the cave.
1. 27m Climb fairly steadily up the face right of a rightward-trending crack line to a deep break. Pull up a short groove to good holds on a beak of rock. Make committing moves into the roof capped groove above and traverse rightwards, on the lip of the first low level ceiling, to the "keyhole". Spare a thought for the late Charlie Heard who was benighted here on his own during the first ascent.
2. 24m Cross the first 2m ceiling, PR on the lip, and grapple greasily around to jugs, TR. Above is an aven where a no hands rest may be gained. Drop out and with deft handwork extend around the 2m ceiling to move awkwardly up to another aven, The Aven Haven, for another no hands rest. When and if recovered, fight across the 11m stepped roof on jugs. Keep enough strength for the final stretch, many PRs. From the lip scramble up to the top.
Superstitious 21m HXS,6a ***
Climbed on Friday the 13th. Possibly the largest free roof ever soloed, 18m of pumping arm work from right to left across DJL’s cave. Be warned there is a boulder below the last few metres. From the small rectangular blosk in the arete climb up and left to the roof proper. There is a hanging flake on the lip to the left. Gain this then move left for a few metres before taking a higher set of holds left to a yellow scar in a wilderness of overhangs. Keep lowat the scar and immediately left gain the horizontal above. Continue left, then on finger jams make a final grope to the penultimate roof. Swing left for another metre or so, then enter the hanging corner on the lip of the cave. Climb the corner to top out on ledges on the right. Pre-placed rope handy to avoid rubble on the top out.
A.F.A.! 20m E6,6a ***
Approach as for Terrorism. From the left-most of the foot-ledges on the nose, reach over a roof to the right-hand end of a handrail on a hanging flake. Follow these leftwards above the main roof for 3m, then pull up to a slight niche. Make a long move up to flat holds and keep locking up to a prominent leftwards pointing spike. Exit diagonally right.
Terrorism 20m E6,6a ***
From the Hatch traverse easily left for 6m onto the arete at the right hand side of the Davy Jones’ cave. From a small rectangular block in the arete, climb up and slight leftwards through small roofs and bulging rock to easier ground at a left facing block hold at 10m. Finish carefully up a broken groove.
These Dangerous Seas 20m E5,6a *
From 1m right of the initial block on Terrorism, climb slightly rightwards to a series of small, spaced jugs leading to poorer holds below a black slab. Take a central line up this slab and finish on the right with care.
Automatic 24m E4,6a *
A fine strenuous route. Start 3m left of the overhanging crack of Fast Reactions at the right edge of the cave. Pull over the first roof to an obvious jug, pull over the next roof, missing PR, and trend leftwards over the bulges above to a slight niche. Continue more easily up the wall.
Fast Reactions' 26m E2,5b *
Start from the ledge at the bottom of the corner crack of The Hatch. Climb a strenuous leftward-slanting overhanging crack splitting a series of small stepped roofs.
The Hatch 24m HS,4a *
Gain the obvious corner and climb it direct.
Here Comes The Rain 24m VS,4c
As for The Hatch to a ledge, traverse right along the lip of the overhang, then climb the arete.
One Cool Vibe 24m E3,5c
This attacks the same arete as Here Comes The Rain, but from the right-hand side. Start 6m right of The Hatch. Climb rightwards on ledges then back left to the arete, continue straight up keeping just right of the arete to exit slightly leftwards.
Crushproof 21m HVS,5a
Start 7m right of The Hatch, just left of a jutting prow. Climb the wall over an obvious flat block and continue direct to easier ground. Belay well back.
Cold Steel 21m E2,5b
Start below the overhanging prow right of Crushproof, left of an overhanging crack. Climb to a ledge and pull past the first overhang. Move right to a bottomless groove. Climb direct until the angle eases and the top is reached.

First Ascents

R.Thomas, G.Royle 00.00.1984
M.Crocker, M.Ward 16.03.1986
M.Crocker solo 16.06.2003
M.Crocker, R.Thomas 19.10.1986
M.Crocker, R.Thomas 00.00.1989
G.Andrew, C.Heard 25-26.03.1978
FFA M.Crocker, R.Thomas 00.00.1989
M.Crocker solo 13.06.2003
M.Crocker solo 21.07.2002
M.Crocker solo 16.09.2001
M.Crocker solo 16.09.2001
M.Crocker, R.Thomas 27.12.1985
A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.0.1977
P.Littlejohn solo 00.05.1975
M.Ward, M.Crocker 16.03.1986
M.Crocker, R.Thomas 27.12.1985
A.Sharp, J.Harwood 20.08.1977
P.Littlejohn, A.Davies 16.03.1980

PHASER WALL

To the right of the prow is a bay of overhanging rock. This area can be approached by abseiling down The Hatch or from above Phaser itself(stakes and other belays in place). Glycogen E1 is the obvious left hand overhanging crack.

Phaser Wall

Route numbers refer to the current Guidebook.

The letters are for new routes, the information here is gleaned from the Climb Magazine article 'Set to Stun: recent developments on Phaser Wall, Ogmore Sea Cliffs, South Wales, by Martin Crocker'.

A) Ogmore Olympics E3 5c

M. Crocker 2008

B) Trogs E4 5c

M. Crocker 2008

C) Man Overboard E4 5c

M. Crocker, R. Thomas 1986

D) A Giant Leap for Crabkind E4 5b, 5c, 5b

I. Parsons, M. Crocker [AL] 2008

File:Phaser Wall.jpg

Phaser Wall. Photo by Steve Delaney

E) Prawn Brain E4 5b

M. Crocker, I. Parsons 2008

F) Omega Duicide E5 6a

M. Crocker, I. Parsons 2008

G) Photon Torpedo E5 6a, 5c

M. Crocker, I. Parsons 2008

Phaser Wall

Route No. 167+, only top part was identified in the article.

DIRTY HARRY WALLS

To the right the crag forms three long slabs divided by corner cracks. The routes make up in length and adventure what they lack in rock quality and reasonable/sensible protection. In other words they are serious.

First Slab

File:1st slab.jpg

1st Slab

General Gordon 35m VS
This follows the friable left edge of the slab right of Fashoda Chimney. Climb a crack to an overhang, traverse left to a ledge and finish up the corner.
Khartoum 42m E2,5a
Start at the featureless slab to the right of General Gordon. Climb the centre of the slab marked by a vague crack line, until it steepens below the headwall, PR. Follow horizontal bands to finish up a steep crack.
Never Again 42m HVS,4b
Poor and loose. Climb the lower slab 12m left of Lady Jane to a crack in the steeper upper half.
Lady Jane 45m HVS,4a,4c
Star below a corner crack on the right of the left slab. Serious in its upper section. Climb the slab past the first overhang to a ledge (possible belay). Climb up to a second roof, taking care with the rock. Step left to finish up a corner.
No Shadow of Doubt 45m E3,5c,5c 2pt
A spectacular outing. Start as for Lady Jane.
1. 21m Climb the slab of Lady Jane, hand traverse right above the first roof and move up the bulging wall above, PR, to the arete. Climb this to a ledge. Large Friends are useful.
2. 24m Move 3m left up to a roof then use 2PA to gain the wall above and the top, PR, TR.

First Ascents

J.Mothersele, G.Jones 00.00.1971
C.Heard, C.Pound, R.Thomas 00.00.1981
G.Royle, R.Thomas 00.07.1986
J.Kerry, C.Horsfield 00.00.1972
R.Thomas, J.Bullock, M.Learoyd 2pt 00.08.1985

Second Slab

File:Ogmore 2nd slab.jpg

2nd Slab

Camptrail 39m HVS,5a
This takes the left edge of the slab, loose. Climb 3m right of the arete to a ledge on the left. Continue in the same line to finish.
Marooned 42m HVS,4c,4c
A climb without a finish. Continuously loose. Start in the centre of the slab left of Falls Road.
1. 22m Climb through the lower overhangs, then up and left to belay at the halfway ledge on the arete.
2. 20m Traverse left round the arete into Lady Jane and finish up that climb.
A Tale Of High Adventure HVS 4c
Weave up to and about the blind crack which may or may not be the same one as Jermyn Street.The consolation prize is the sturdy scaffoling pole belay in the turf above.45m
Jermyn Street 44m E1,5a
This route climbs the slab 6m left of Falls Road. Start at a ledge 4m up the corner crack of Falls Road. Climb up leftwards for 6m to a slight ridge, continue up for 18m then trend left to reach a faint crack leading to the top.
Red Light 42m E1,5a
Serious. Start 4m left of Falls Road and climb until 6m from the top. Traverse right and finish up a crack line.
Falls Road 45m HVS,4c
The obvious corner/crack on the right of the slab. Climb the corner for 21m then move onto an earthy ledge. Follow a groove to exit right above an overhang. The upper section is filthy and has poor protection.

First Ascents

P.Littlejohn, J.Mothersele 13.12.1977
S.Lewis, J.Harwood 18.10.1978
Alan Rosier 201?
P.Littlejohn, J.Harwood 11.12.1977
P.Littlejohn, M.Price 16.03.1980
C.Horsfield, P.Thomas 00.00.1974

A Tale of High Adventure, VS 4c - left of Falsity wall. Weave up to and around a blind crack in the upper half of the slab. Serious as not cleaned, new stake at top.

Falsity Wall

File:Falsity wall.jpg

Falsity Wall

Contains the forbidding but reasonably graded Norwegian Wood E2 and Falsity E2. This wall is much steeper than appearances suggest. Be prepared to leave a rope in place and clean in advance (stakes in place).

The crag now faces west again.

Norwegian Wood E2,5b
Gain and follow the obvious rightward-trending calcite line over a small roof to a ledge in the middle of the wall (possible peg belay). Follow the calcite line to/ and continue with care up the arete. 45m.
Yesterday's Heroes E2,5b
A more direct and solid line starting l of the corner of Falsity gaining the ledge of Norweigan Wood and continuing as per that route. 42m.

The high part of the wall has two black streaks
Black Looks E4,5c ***
Frightening, leaving a rope for the grassy exit should reduce the fear factor (minimally). Gain the ledge as for Falsity, up then left to the horizontal break and the start of the longest black streak (place numerous runners here) Proceed up widely spaced rounded breaks with the hopeful possibility of dubious large friend placements. Enjoy!! 42m.
Spring Fever E3,5c *
As for Falsity then up the shorter R hand black streak (PR). 42m.
Falsity E2,5b*
The classic and most regular of routes on this wall. Start at the obvious corner, flowstone sheets then pull over roof to ledge continuing as for Norweigan Wood. 43m.
Far City E3,5b,5c
Wandering and a bit crunchy.Start as for Falsity then traverse R 6m,up steep friable rock to a large ledge.Belay.27m.Walk R until beneath a hanging corner.Climb it exiting l to finish up a wall and ramp.17m.

First Ascents

A.Sharpe Prof J. Harwood P. Lewis 14.09.1977
L.Foulkes P. Lewis 1980
R.Thomas M. Learoyd G. Royle 1984.
R.Thomas G. Royle 1987.
P. Littlejohn J. Mothersele 20.06.1977
L.Foulkes D.Renshaw 1983

Third Slab

File:Ogmore third slab.jpg

Third Slab. Photograph: Steve Delaney

To the right is the third, largest and loosest slab.

Easy Action 42m VS,4b
Start 6m left of the prominent central crack 5m from the left side of the slab, below a crack 5m up. Climb to the latter crack from the left and climb it to its top, finishing up the wall above.
Sense Of Adventure 45m VS,4a,4a
Climb the crack in the centre of the slab to its top. Continue up a line of weakness and left to finish.
Wimaway 45m HVS,4a,4b
This climbs the corner between Sense Of Adventure and the right-hand side of the slab.
1. 30m Climb to a corner and follow this to a stance on the left.
2. 15m Finish directly.
  
  It is advisable to leave a rope in place down the finishing grassy gully for the next routes.
Surprise Package 36m VS,4a
Start just right of Wimaway at a boulder. Step off the boulder, move right to a groove, climb this and the wall above for 24m then move right to a grassy gully (poor belay) to finish carefully.
Gepe 30m VS,4b
Climb the deep chimney-cleft on the right side of the third slab to a corner. Finish up the gully.

The next routes do not finish on the top of the cliff. It is sensible to leave an abseil rope in place.
Pontoon 24m VS,4b
Climb the groove in the rib just right of the deep cleft of Gepe. Abseil at 24m.
Simple Twist 24m E2,5c
Start 4m right of Gepe, left of a short corner below the left side of a square-cut roof. Climb the wall into the corner, then move right and around the arete to a crack. Climb it to its top. Abseil.<br

First Ascents

T.Penning, P.Cresswell 18.10.1981
J.Harwood, P.Lewis 03.07.1980
A.Sharp, J.Harwood 15.05.1981
A.Sharp, J.Harwood 15.05.1981
J.Harwood solo 17.05.1981
C.Horsfield, J.Harwood 25.05.1977
P.Littlejohn 26.05.1977

MITZY WALL

File:Mitzy walls-ogmore.jpg

Mitzy Walls

The cliff now turns through a right angle and provides better rock and routes. At the left side of this section is a set of huge overhangs split by two vertical breaks. Storms have virtually destroyed The Hunchback, E1 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=73257) and The Bills, The Bills. Some roofs have been lost and a few grades are now speculative.

The Bills, The Bills - E3,6b
Mitzy - 15m E5,6b
Start beneath an obvious split in the roof to the right of the overhangs. This has lost yet more of its roof in recent storms, so the grade is highly speculative. Climb to the roof and struggle over it to a second roof. Abseil. 15m

To the right is a deep depression starting from a small, flat platform. On its right side is an obvious arete. It is possible to traverse right along a large ledge to descend from these routes. A preplaced abseil rope would be the thinking man’s option.
Night Games E3,5c
Start from the platform and climb an undercut wall to gain a thin crack in the wall left of the arete. Climb this to a belay ledge. Abseil. 21m
To Mitzy a Pup - E3,6a *
This takes the arete. Climb the wall to a ledge, step left and climb the arete to its top (Hex 10 belay). Traverse right or abseil. 30m.
The Pod - VS,4b *
Climb the obvious pod-shaped chimney until a traverse right leads to the arete. Belay on the right. 27m.
Two Peas - E1 5a
Gain the arete by a rightward hand traverse and finish direct. 25m.
Philosan - VS,4b
Climb a crack, swing right to the arete and continue to a fault, which is followed to ledges. Move right to descend. 21m.
Fly Power - VS,4b
t just left of Duff. Climb a leftward-leaning crack to a ledge. Continue to another leftward-leaning crack, then the belay. Traverse right to descend. 21m.
Duff - S,4a
Start 3m left of the right edge of the next wall. Climb the wall via a crack to a ledge. Continue rightwards to a ledge and traverse right to descend. 21m.

First Ascents

P. Littlejohn, C.Brooks 1984
A.Sharp, P.Lewis 28.10.1978
M.Learoyd, R.Thomas 00.07.1985
A.Sharp, P.Lewis 22.07.1979
J.Harwood, C.Horsfield 00.00.1977
R.Thomas, S.Coles 00.05.1994
C.Horsfield, J.Harwood 23.03.1977
J.Harwood, C.Horsfield 23.03.1977
J.Harwood 20.07.1977

RIGHT HAND WALL

File:Ogmore-right hand wall.jpg

Right Wall - (Becher's Brook). Yellow dotted line marks the "walk off"

(better known as BECHER'S BROOK and obvious by the large pool leading into the gloomy narrow zawn.)

The cliff now turns to face the sea once more and contains some short routes that are useful when the tide is unfavourable.There are two fixed belays above the main VS cracks(other route are dubious) but the best descent is to walk to the top of Via Normale.

Against The Grain 18m E3,5c
Now slightly more difficult to start the overhang. The large overhang where the cliff turns to face the sea. Climb a short problem wall on the left to gain a ledge then swing right over the roof, TR on the lip.
Via Normale 21m D
Climb the crack line just right of the large overhang. A useful descent.
Moonlight Flit 14m E1,5b
Start 3m left of the second crack line at a green, bulging wall. Make hard moves to start and gain a ledge. Finish up the overhangs above.
L’Escargot 14m VS,4b
The second crack line. Climb to a ledge and then a corner to more ledges. Traverse left to descend Via Normale.
Tri-Via 14m VS,5a
Climb the faint crack between the second and third cracks until bigger holds lead to a ledge. Finish up the overhangs above. Descent as above.
Overdue 14m VS,4b
Climb the third crack line to ledges, then over bulges to another ledge. Descent as above.
Overpaid 14m E1,5c
Start in the centre of the wall right of Overdue. Make a hard move to reach small holds and a ledge. Continue up overhanging rock on large holds.
Arkle 14m HVS,5b
Climb the crack line above the edge of the rock pool of Becher’s Brook.
Red Rum 14m VS,4c *
The right-hand crack line above the pool. Traverse right over the water to reach the crack.
Becher’s Brook 27m VS,4b
The narrow cleft at the back of the rock pool reached by an entertaining traverse or swim! Climb the crack, widening to a chimney, to ledges. Traverse righ to the top of the seaward ridge. Descend easily to the right.
Foinaven 22m HVS,5a
Climb Becher’s Brook for 4m then traverse right to a crack. Finish direct. Descend rightwards.

First Ascents

R.Thomas, G.Royle 00.00.1985
J.Harwood 10.09.1974
R.Thomas, G.Royle, R.Haslum 00.00.1983
J.Harwood, C.Horsfield 24.09.1976
R.Thomas, G.Davies 00.00.1981
J.Harwood, C.Horsfield 24.09.1976
R.Thomas, G.Davies 00.00.1980
A.Sharp, J.Harwood 20.08.1977
P.Littlejohn, J.Harwood, C.Horsfield 25.05.1977
P.Thomas, J.Harwood 10.09.1974
C.Heard, A.March 00.00.1977

BOULDERING On the far East Ogmore cliffs just before Southerndown beach is a prominent rectangular buttress which is west facing and has a crackline going direct up the center. The route is roughly 8m long and above it the cliff is loose and chossy.There are numerous other short walls/overhangs/long traveses extending all the way to the causeway at Southerndown.There are numerous problems done over the last 3 decades awaiting re-discovery.A top bouldering venue for those wanting stamina .

1. The Timely Trick - E1,5c

Direct up the centre of the prominent rectangular west facing buttress. Straight up juggy rock then a big move to a horizontal crack. 0.3 Camalot here. continue straight up the buttress using small slopey holds emulating from the thin crack. Reach for the top to a good mantle.

E.Stephens lead 31.07.2011

Addendum (time indeed plays tricks, done as boulder problems/solos in 1985 along with the 2 lines either side by Graham Royle, Roy Thomas, Mick Learoyd,Eugene Jones.)

There is some steep bouldering not far from the beach at Southerndown which may prove useful if waiting for the tide to turn. Have a look at the Bouldering_in_Bridgend_area page.

File:Ogmore12.jpg

Bouldering near Southerndown Beach

Ogmore Old

Contents

TIDAL STATUS

BOLTING POLICY

PREAMBLE

ACCESS

THE AREAS OF OGMORE

THE WESTERN CRAG

First Ascents

TWINKLE BUTTRESS

First Ascents

OGMORE POPULAR END

First Ascents

FOOLS FANTASY AREA

First Ascents

ELEPHANT WALL AREA

First Ascents

TUSKER CHIMNEY AREA

First Ascents

SCUTCH BUTTRESS

First Ascents

TIGER BAY

Left Wall

First Ascents

Sorcery Wall

First Ascents

Fire Wall

First Ascents

Bute Street Buttress

THE CASTLE AREA

First Ascents

THE BISCUIT

First Ascents

DAVEY JONES' LOCKER AND THE SEA CAVES

First Ascents

PHASER WALL

DIRTY HARRY WALLS

First Slab

First Ascents

Second Slab

First Ascents

Falsity Wall

First Ascents

Third Slab

First Ascents

MITZY WALL

First Ascents

RIGHT HAND WALL

First Ascents

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