Neath Abbey Quarry

Neath Abbey Quarry
Name	Neath Abbey Quarry
Rock Type	Sandstone "Sandstone" is not in the list (Quarried Limestone, Quarried Jurassic Limestone, Quarried Triassic Limestone, Quarried Sandstone, Quarried Gritstone, Quarried Granite, Quarried Schist, Quarried Slate, Natural Limestone, Natural Jurassic Limestone, Natural Triassic Limestone, Natural Sandstone, Natural Gritstone, Natural Granite, Natural Schist, Natural Slate) of allowed values for the "RockType" property.
Parent Crag
Climbing Type
Located
Lat/Long
Approach Time (mins)	Approach Time (mins) "Approach Time (mins)" is not a number.
Faces
Seepage
Suitable Weather
Midges	No
Tidal	No
Climbing Possible
Access Notes
Access
Start Bird Ban
Bird Ban End
Bird Ban Notes
Restriction Notes
Crag List	Neath Abbey Quarry

Contents

South East Wales Sandstone

GR 724985

PREAMBLE

A big bramble infested quarry similar to the upper tier of Llanbradach but steeper. There is quite a bit of seepage. Most of the routes are sports routes, but the gear consists of 8mm bolts in a grid iron at exactly the same interval, making clips awkward. The PB lower offs are dubious. Some of the routes may not have been done yet. Access is a major problem and it is highly probable that one of the residents, a stipendiary magistrate, will insist that you leave.

In addition it is thought that the routes may have all fallen down - but nobody has bothered checking.

It has been confirmed that the crag collapsed one night in the early 2000's giving the villagers underneath a fearful awakening. The resulting jumble of massive boulders have provide a fruitful source of top quality problems which may be recorded here or in the bouldering section.

Take care not to trespass along the private road when gaining access, bite the bullet and take the lengthy walk via the woods or escarpment above.

ACCESS

The large quarry above Neath Abbey visible from the M4. Leave the M4 at J44 and follow signs to Birchgrove (B4291). At the first church turn right, drive along this road for about 2 miles and where the road contours right, park just beyond a wooded area. Head up through new estates to reach a path which is followed to eventually reach the quarry.

Map Of Gower and SE Wales

THE ROUTES

Grid Iron Wall

1. Unnamed - Fr7b+ **
   The left-hand bolt line, passing a big pocket. 21m
   
   
2. Unnamed #2 - Fr7b+ **
   The central line. 21m
   
   
3. Unnamed #3 - Fr7c+ **
   The right-hand line. Said to be very hard. 21m
   

Other Routes

1. Unnamed #4 - Fr7a
   The wall at right angles to Grid Iron Wall. 12m
   
   
2. Unnamed #5 - Fr6c
   Round to the right is a capped groove containing a BR. Climb up the crack to this and move left and up (crux). Pull round the roof, and onto the slab, which is climbed past BRs and PRs to a BB. 20m
   
   

FIRST ASCENTS

Grid Iron Wall

1. A.Sharp etc. 00.00.1994
   
2. A.Sharp etc. 00.00.1994
   
3. A.Sharp etc. 00.00.1994
   

Other Routes

1. A.Sharp etc. 00.00.1994
   
2. A.Sharp etc. 00.00.1994